Venice & Delta del Po

Austria was already retreating into winter. Late November and the cold, rain and daily fog was rolling in right on time. The locals begin to disappear into their homes and the general mood of living in this area starts to wear us down. So as it was Leela’s birthday it was a great excuse to get out of town.

It just so happened that over this weekend there was a band of very good weather in the Veneto region of Italy. And as Leela loves all things Italian, we decided to drive to Venice the night before and park up in the Camper park just outside of town again.

If you read the post on our previous trip to Venice in the summer (read diary entry here) you will know that this park is not the best. And staying there again we found that nothing had changed. In fact it had got worse as in addition to the other issues, there was now no hot water in the mens showers! But anyway… Location, location, location…

Venice

Waking early on a beautiful crisp morning we shared a coffee in bed when birthday girl opened her card and presents. Got showered in the Van! and were already on the road to Venice as the sun was rising over the city.

We went first of course for a coffee and a filled to the brim Cornetto. An absolute must to start a day in Venice. Then a long walk around town before taking a look at the hustle and bustle of the fish and groceries market. Then it was off to the church for a look around when it was still reasonably quiet. This is quite a magnificent structure which, as all of Venice is, under attack from the rising tides. And although we are both neither religions, have any faith in that respect or indeed even like the church, you still have to admire the incredible work and detail that went into its construction. Although when looking at such structures our minds and thoughts always go back to the thousands of people that were slaves and worked and died to build these masterpieces.

After the church, and as it was fast approaching lunchtime, we were on our way to find a restaurant. We had already planned her birthday lunch in advance which was to be a small ethnic place employing chefs from all over Africa and eastern Europe with dishes from every culture available.

We were recommended this place after watching Stanley Tucci’s searching for Italy TV show. We really love the series and it showcases all that is good in Italian scenery, food and culture. However nearly every place he goes to has a Michelin star or is just so exclusive and expensive that we could not even consider stepping foot inside. But this one, The Orient Experience, was just on our budget limit. So we had planned to go there as a birthday treat and see if Tucci actually knew what he was talking about!

The options are incredibly varied and we opted for the full 5 dish menu and some midday wine. The food turned out to be really very nice and such a change for us after eating the exceptionally bland food of Austria. We really miss the variety of eating options available to us where we live as they just do not embrace other cultures. And although we travel a lot to Italy and south through Croatia, these types of food or indeed any Asian options are not available unless you cook them yourself. And we thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant and food on offer and would recommend it to anyone travelling in Venice and wanting to try something different.

As we were leaving it began to fill up and the manager told us that at peak times they were now requiring reservations. But even though they have all this new exposure, they are managing to keep their prices reasonable. For now at least anyway.

After such a huge meal we needed a walk and as the sun was now shining we took a route along the seafront and sat for a while on a dockside cafe to enjoy the atmosphere and a white wine. But soon we were off again around the city. Small alley ways, back streets, boutiques and then a boat trip up the grand canal to its final stop. This was really nice as we got to see the city from a completely different perspective on the water.

As it was now already getting dark and we were getting exhausted, there was just time for a short walk to see the evening lights, a stop in the most incredible supermarket we had ever seen (architecturally speaking) for a bottle of wine and then the bus ride back to the park up. And after a short walk through the local park we were sat in our favourite home and enjoying the wine.

The following morning we took an early run in the crisp seaside air around the wonderful park that is behind the camping. They really have done a great job there stopping this prime land from being turned into business opportunities and laying out a network of running and cycle paths through the greenery together with sport facilities and cafes. A real escape from what is around it. And after a shower and breakfast we were heading south with some co-ordinates punched in the navi to a place we knew nothing about.

Delta del Po

Around an hour or so directly south of Venice there is an area called Delta del Po. Both of us have travelled extensively through Italy but for some reason this particular region had passed us by. It is a very flat wetland nature reserve with a vast amount of Islands and inland waterways, sometimes linked, sometimes not, by small roads and bridges. And as we really had no idea of what to expect or do we decided upon a park up near a sea side restaurant for the first night that that was recommended as being safe and relatively quiet.

After a chaotic drive and a stop in the most amazing of supermarkets, which just had everything you could possibly want and still at a price you could actually afford, we arrived in the nature reserve to be greeted by stormy weather and wonderful dramatic views. The car park was exactly as described and although it was now already deep into the afternoon we unloaded the bikes and set off on a round trip of this small island.

As you set off north the first thing you encounter is the giant skeleton of an old factory that is in the process of being demolished. The tall chimney visible from everywhere on the peninsula. Following a very nice farmers path brings you around to an area of woodland where masses of birds are flying in great flocks across the neighbouring wetland. And as a bonus the sun was setting lighting up the sky in a glorious pastel scene. On our return leg, we encountered a flock of sheep being herded by a Shepard and his dog back to their resting place for the evening. A really lovely ride even if in a little cold and damp weather.

Back at the van it was time to shower and cook our fresh burgers that we had picked up on the way down. Sharing a beer and catching up on how Wales had done in the World Cup soccer during the day. But that hadn’t gone any where near as good as our day had been!

The following morning we woke to a big thunder­storm all around. It was a wonderful view over the ocean with a dramatic skyline. It also helped to clear the air and opened the weather up for a beautiful couple of days ahead.

The main reason to come to this area for us was to see the birds, wildlife and especially we wanted to see the pink Flamingos that lived in the region. So we drove to the entrance of Isola Albarella and parked the van. I say entrance because this island is gated with restrictive access for residents and holidaymakers. We were unaware of such a place and was obviously a rich persons retreat complete with very nice holiday homes laid out in a manner that reminded us both very much of Florida, including a private golf course and an expansive beach area.

But what was amazing is that it was nearly completely deserted. As we cycled around we were literally the only people there and it was so strange with deer just walking the streets. Almost like you were in the film Legend. Quite strange but a very nice ride nonetheless.

Going off the island and into the wetlands we saw our first flamingos. Literally loads of them standing and feeding and being quite talkative but unfortunately a little too far away to get a good view.

After the ride we made our way to a park-up we had seen that looked very nice situated on a thin stretch of road linking 2 islands, with the ocean on one side and wetland on the other. We had a wonderful sunset and a cold, clear night with millions of stars illuminating an evening walk. Quite magical.

The next morning we woke to a cold and sunny day and as we drove out of the wetlands we were fortunate to come across a flock of Flamingo’s very close to the road feeding in the morning sun. A lovely ending to our time there.

We had one last stop to make before heading home and that was to visit Chioggia. It was quite a charming town with a Venetian layout and a bustling main square where we enjoyed a coffee and some fresh “very good” cookies which the waiter was excited to give us. We sat in the midday sun soaking up the crazy Italian Sunday atmosphere.

A completely wonderful birthday weekend and a new area of Italy that we thoroughly enjoyed exploring.

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