Venice

Cold, rain, wind, and the heating switched back on. Yep, late autumn was here again! This time of year normally makes for a great holiday to the ocean. The children are back in school and Croatia is usually still very warm. But this year the weather, and I think the whole world, is a bit messed up. The forecast for Croatia was pretty bad but the band of weather seemed to be tracking through central Europe and to the West looked much better. So we packed up and made our way to Leela’s most favourite place, Venice.

After a long time on increasingly expensive highways through Italy we arrived at our parking for the weekend just outside the city. This place came recommended but unfortunately let us down over the weekend. Full of trash, sanitary services in bad need of repair as well as being filthy. No hot water for showers and the camper service quite unpleasant to say the least! The price did not justify the facilities but as we were just sleeping there and it was a reasonable walk to public transport, we kept quiet. Although the general disgusting mess of trash and facilities is down a long way to the people who were actually staying there also.

On Friday night we had a huge storm pass through which certainly kept us entertained whilst making the camp even more filthy but by morning it had already passed and with the forecast for sunshine after lunch we were off to catch the bus into the city.

I had been to Venice once before but a very long time ago so I had absolutely no idea of where to go or what to do but fortunately I was with my own private guide who knew the city inside out. This knowledge came from working in the Guggenheim for many years and then spending countless trips and time in the city.

First thing was to stop at her favourite cafe for a filled cornetto and coffee. This is an essential start for a day in Venice as they take their cafe’s quite seriously and it was very much enjoyed. The whole ambience of the place just oozed elegance and the choices too numerous to pick. So I just left it up to her and wolfed down a couple of hot filled croissants.

Then we were off… A full day of wondering the maze of tiny streets looking at the splendour of the vast St. Marco square and pretty much every single bridge in town. She told me that it was tradition to kiss on every bridge. But I’m not so sure that was the case and just an excuse to make out constantly through the day…

The city really is incredible. Just total and utter chaos. But somehow it seems to work and move and breath in perfect harmony with the environment, culture and history. We walked literally for hours taking in all the major attractions before stopping for a well earned wine and pizza and then enjoyed a slower afternoon in and around all the less troden back streets before buying a couple of cans of Sardinian lager and sitting on her favourite quiet dock of the Grand Canal to watch the sun set. After a short walk back to central station we were back on the bus after dark to our trash scattered camp site!

The next day we were up and out before any of the tourists and already in town as the waitress was taking the fresh and hot pastries out of the oven. A couple of coffees later and we were walking through the empty streets and getting ready for a full day at the Bienalle. An art exhibition and installation that runs every two years and attracts the worlds best artists and a whole lot of extra visitors to the city.

First was the historic Pavilions at the Giardini. A collection of buildings each hosting an artists installation from a specific country. From Brazil to Russia, everyone was there. Except Wales of course and now you mention it, Russia wasn’t given a spot either in view of what was going on.

For me it was interesting. I had no real idea of what to look for but just enjoyed the things that made me happy. Some were downright awful and made no sense as well as looking like a 5 year old had been let loose with some lego. And the less said about the so called British (English) entry the better. Just the noise of some warbling bint in a room of no presence.Anyway I was quite taken by the Korean (south) entry and especially liked the French’s take on old cinematography which probably ranked first in my eyes. The Austrian installation was downright disastrous and only just finishing one step above England at the bottom of the pile. Both being beaten by the empty house of Russia.

This tour took us well toward midday and we decided on a liquid lunch of what seemed to be the favoured drink of the city and one I had never had before, an Aperole Spritz. I would love to say I enjoyed it as much as Leela but it was too sweet for me. Nevertheless it was quite enjoyable in our current surroundings.

Heading toward the main hall to the exhibition entitled “The Milk of Dreams” we were not quite sure of what to expect. It turned out to be pretty much a 90 minute horror show. Lots of death, destruction, dismembered bodies and torture. Not exactly what I had hoped for my first ‘art’ experience. Even Leela was a little put off by some of the works. But we soldiered through and were both delighted by a few pieces that were intermingled amongst the horror.

It was now definitely time to set out for some lunch before heading to the venue for the afternoon at the second part of the exhibition held at the Arsenale.

This is a really impressive old dock yard where many of the huge ships were built through the years. Now the buildings have been renovated and are home to some very large installations. After roaming through each of these for a long time, except for Venices own entry as the queue was ridiculous, we saw a lot of art that was certainly quite subjective, and a lot where the majesty of the building well out shadowed what was placed in it. But there were a few lovely pieces and works and as we were now getting pretty worn out we decided it was time to give our eyes, and my brain, a rest and head to the shoreline for some fresh air. Stopping for a couple of cans of our new favourite Sardinian beer we perched ourselves on a bench and watched the most incredible sunset over the Venetian rooftops and towers. Quite a beautiful end to the day.

At dusk we made our way through the quiet backstreets and back to the bus station for our packed bus ride back to the camp. The end to a perfect and very memorable weekend in Venice. Who knew it was such a beautiful city!