Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Category: Sport

Autumn tour

Summer had gone by without even noticing it was here in the first place. Terrible weather, storms, devastating local flooding. So it was time for us to take a break and spend some time together away from our area. I was in a situation to take some longer time away but Leela not so much, so we had to make a Tour Plan.

Part I – Millstättersee

First was a weekend at Millstättersee to try to unwind for a couple of days. We visited this FKK campsite last year (diary entry) and liked the views and the Lake side bathing area. This time we didn’t do any cycling but only ran in the mornings, spent the day at the lake, and the evenings at the van. Nice and simple and just what we wanted.

The campsite was as the previous time and we had a lovely couple of days together and at 5pm on Sunday we said our goodbyes. Her returning to home and me heading in the opposite direction to continue to my next destination.

Part II – Italian Dolomites

Leaving Kärnten late on Sunday afternoon I had quite a lovely drive through East Tyrol to the Italian border at Cillian and then into the Dolomite Mountain range where my first stop was to see the towers of Tre-Chime.

I had a nice plan to park-up at a location where it should have been quiet and hike up to the hut and around the towers the following morning. Wow was I in for a surprise! It’s the second week of September and already off-season with the kids back in school. So I fully expected to only see like minded outdoor enthusiasts and maybe some retired people on tour, but I was not prepared for the sensory onslaught and sheer amount of people on the mountain. I did eventually find a parking place and enjoyed a couple of beers watching Wales win their first game in the World Cup, before going to bed way too late for me and slightly drunk!

Waking early it was full gas to have breakfast, make sandwiches and be on the trail by 7am. But incredibly the toll road was already queuing for over a KM at this time. Fortunately my hiking path took me away from the road and a very pleasant hike through lush forest to the hut. And heres where the fun starts.

I have no actual idea how many cars, vans, campers and buses were parked up there but I have never seen anything like it before. There was also every conceivable person here as well. Everything from flip flops, trainers, sweatpants, jeans, a girl in a dress, the Instagram hunters in full matching luminous gear all the way through to complete winter mountaineering packs. Not to mention the E-bikes, dogs both on lead and being carried in handbags and a Chinese man in full black Burka. Presumably to stop the sun. Quite unreal if you weren’t there. Oh and didn’t I mention the Drones… The F * * * * * G drones! Even though there is a complete ban on them in the national park.

The views up there are quite spectacular in every direction. The mountain range is quite unique from any other with the rock formations giving an incredible vista against the crisp blue morning sky. The weather was just perfect and although it was still relatively early it was getting quite warm. So after a quick sandwich to re-fuel as I had already hiked over 5km, I began the circular walk around the towers so you can get a full idea of how large these rocks are.

The path begins like a road which takes you to the next hut but then its a short climb to the viewing platform from where you get a first glimpse of the 3 towers. It really is an incredible piece of rock and well worth the physical effort of getting there. Or just drive there like everyone else.

As you drop down some meters you get an even better view of the scale of them and as the sun was still behind, a marvellous view of the outline against the blue sky.

From here the main path (basically a road) heads further away to the Instagram photo platform but by this time I had enough of the crowds and took the more difficult path through the boulder field and re-joined the masses again at the next hut before a last gimps of the rocks and returning to the start.

By now it was swarming there with bus fulls of tour groups and the late sleepers. The noise for me was getting too much as a group of 20-30 German Porsche “enthusiasts” were hearing up and down the street showing off their overly priced and quite pointless private parts. So it was time to head back into the forest, eat the rest of my food by a beautiful river and make my way to the van.

I guess you should take the time to visit Tre Chime if you are in the Dolomites as it really is truly magnificent. But if you love nature and peace and quiet. You are going to be very disappointed.

After a shower and a cold beer by a lovely lake I had a couple of hours in the afternoon sun deciding what to do next. And after a nice hot meal with a view I put everything away and was on the road to my next destination.

Lago di Sorapis is probably second behind Tre Chime on the Instagram to do list so I was fully not expecting to be alone there. Nevertheless I took the short evening drive to where I was expecting to park but as per the previous night there was just no chance. I have never seen so many cars and campers on a mountain pass and I have followed the Tour de France many times! So I drove 2 km further to the huge car park of the ski lifts and although there was a lot of construction work going on, had a very peaceful night with a spectacular view from the van window.

Up a tad later than I would have liked due to the previous days energy output and a couple of beers, I was packed and on the trail a little before 8am. The extra couple of km’s done and I was at the trailhead reasonably alone still with just a few people who generally looked like they knew what they were doing.

The trail starts, and indeed continues, in just the most spectacular scenery. The mountains are incredible in every direction which means making progress can be a little disjointed due to all the stopping to look at the views and photo taking. The first sections are through lush forest on easy going paths before it becomes steeper and more technical in places as you get closer to the lake. But easily manageable if you are fit and have a good head for heights as well as sure footing.

The weather once more was perfect with very warm temperatures no wind and blue skies and on reaching the lake these conditions made it look even more picture perfect. I was a little surprised to see the amount of people already hanging around but most I think had been staying at the hut and were viewing it after their breakfast.

I stopped for a while to eat my lunch and take in the surroundings but unfortunately again the peace and tranquility was spoilt by the general loudness of the new generation in such environments, but by far the worst is the constant flying of drones. What an absolute nuisance to the mountaineer and nature lover. The bans and fines should be somehow enforced. But after my lunch I took one last walk around this majestic lake and made my way back down the mountain and back to the van for a welcome shower and food.

It really was a fantastic trail and to have that lake at the end of it a delight. Both Tre Chime and Lago di Sorapis are must sees if you are visiting the Dolomites and are a mountain lover. Just have the patience of a Saint whilst on the trail, even in so called off season.

Over my dinner I could see that the weather was really changing for the worse the next two days so I decided to leave a day earlier than planned and head to the ocean for the next part of the plan.

Part III – Baška or maybe Punat…

It was a beautiful drive down through the Dolomites on a lovely evening. The traffic was kind and even the Highway was no stress all the way to Traviso, even if there was a little anxiety with the fuel range reading zero and me having a further 50km to get to the border with Slovenia for 50 cents a litre cheaper Diesel.

Stress over and as it was still early enough and a lovely evening I decided to continue driving to Croatia and stopped for the night at a lovely spot under the KRK bridge and watched the sunset drop slowly behind the boats in the Harbour.

The next morning was an early start so after a coffee I was on the road down to the south of the island. First stop was to wash the van as it had taken some collateral damage the last weeks driving then to a supermarket just outside Baška where I was very surprised that at 8am they had no fresh produce and very little alcohol. So I just bought the very basics and made my way to Bunculuka camp site a further few minutes down the road and when I arrived I realised why the supermarket was so empty. The place was absolutely rammed.

We both have been going to this camp for many, many years, and I have never failed to get a choice of pitches at any time of the year. But the receptionist said “No” absolutely full, every single pitch taken or reserved and already a queue of vans lined up to take the next one out’s pitch. Just total and utter chaos and a very unpleasant atmosphere everywhere.

So I hung around for a couple of hours, used the showers, took a dip in the amazing ocean and bought some bread from the bakery. Wondered around searching for a place but to no avail. Enough was enough so I returned to the receptionist who could not understand why I was leaving, picked up my passport and was unexpectedly on the road again a lot sooner than I would have liked.

Next on the original plan would have been to go to camp Konobe in Punat which is only 30 minutes drive to the west of the island. There we have also been many times and indeed we got engaged there last May. So after a normal arrival, a choice of nice pitches, and a quick look around, I was already setting up in a beautiful pitch with an amazing view and hopefully not moving for the next week or so.

The rest of the day was spent doing chores that a week on the road and in the mountains catch up on you. Camper service, washing clothes, essential shopping and a clean up of the van so that it was at least respectable for when Leela arrived for the weekend.

I spent the next couple of days in very pleasant weather, running, SUP, listening to music, reading and just hanging around in this incredible location. And when Leela arrived, we done exactly the same. A wonderful time together that went way too quick and a sadness when she had to leave on Sunday evening.

I spent the rest of the week there alone in sometimes nice but mostly bad weather with a very wet font all around. But nevertheless it was very nice just to sit and enjoy the view and do some planning for our Trips in 2024.

17/09/2023
FKK Camping Valalta

If you talk about Naturism in Croatia then for sure Valalta camping will be mentioned. It was founded in 1968 and is the largest nudist camp in the whole of Croatia, occupying over 5 km of pristine Coastline. And it’s just HUGE!

We normally do not like such places and try to avoid any campsite that can accommodate more than a 1000 people but after treating couple for massage at our local FKK campsite and hearing about their recent trip there we decided to give it a try over the following long weekend.

The first thing that hits you when you arrive, after the huge sign outside the campsite for a swingers club, is that there are no reservations for the place. You just arrive, check in, and drive around until you find a free pitch that suits you. It’s uncomplicated and incredibly easy for the camp and the sheer mass of numbers allows them to operate this way. But unfortunately its a real pain in the arse for the visitor, especially if you have never been there before.

The camp is just HUGE and with a rabbit warren of tiny streets its almost impossible to decide on a pitch whilst also concentrating on your driving and avoiding the half asleep and hungover guests standing in the middle of the road first thing in the morning. But after 30 minutes searching we finally settled on a pitch that also had a sea view which we were hoping for.

The next hour was spent setting up and finally having some breakfast before returning to the check in to give our pitch number and taking a walk around the site together with a visit to the very impressive and well stocked supermarket which pretty much had everything from camping chairs to their own self made wine and beer.

Continuing on our 5 km walk we checked out the impressive sport complex with tennis, soccer and basketball courts. The two mini golf areas, swimming pool complex, car wash, shops and finally the hilltop viewing towers overlooking the Lim Canal. Then returning along the coastline, past the marina, bars, seaside pools and beaches, before returning to the van. Did I mention that this place was HUGE?!

The rest of the day was first spent going for a run through the nearby forest, lounging at the van and lying by the pool before the main event of cooking steak and chips for dinner which we had been looking forward to.

The next day we had a long bike tour planned so after breakfast and preparing a packed lunch we headed off. First through thick forest along the side of the canal then cutting inland through some real charming mountain bike paths before reaching the coast again around 10 km below Rovinj. Here we connected with the lovely coastal path that ran through a terribly overrun and loud camping before stopping for our lunch at nice FKK beach and grass park under the trees.

Back on the bikes following this sublime path to Rovinj where we had planned another stop to look around the town as we enjoyed it so much last year when we visited for the day. But there must have just been a cruise ship arrival as it was completely full so we just rode on through the masses without stopping this time.

Joining the coastal path again after the town it was a short ride through some lovely forest before rejoining the road at the swingers club and then back to the van with the last of the afternoon spent lying at the pool. A really nice and recommended tour if you are staying at the camp.

The weather on Saturday was not so great so we relaxed around the van and took a long walk around the full extremities of the camp. After lunch it began to open up again so we made a fun few rounds of golf before taking to the tennis courts to try out our new rackets!

Sunday we had to leave and of course the sun shone all day without a cloud in the sky! So we just lay by the ocean in the morning and took a couple of swims and after lunch we left the pitch and made the most of the pool area before reluctantly peeling ourselves away for the journey home.

We very rarely get overly excited about a camp site but we were both really taken by Valalta. We loved the fact that it was based on a first come basis. We were really impressed that there were no dogs allowed on the site which makes it both cleaner and quieter. It was spectacularly clean and well maintained for such a huge site. All the facilities functioned correctly. The sport complex was perfect for us and the location suited our sporting lifestyle with plenty of bike and running tours possible in relative safety. The supermarket was well stocked and the pool area a real bonus.

If we had to pick up on something negative then we would have to say that it is really expensive to stay there and the cost of 15€ for one hour of tennis also put us off playing more than once which we would have liked to have done. But you really do get what you pay for and as they are for sure not short of customers they can get away with charging what they want. That said, we have paid the same before for absolutely terrible sites so it is all relative.

It was a fantastic few days and we will for sure return sooner than later. We have been so fortunate this month to have stayed in two new campsites to us which have been spectacular but for completely different reasons. Firstly Mali Raj in Slovenia (diary entry) for its tiny intimacy and idyllic location and now Valalta in Istria which manages to keep quality in all of its hugeness!

We give both campsites 5 stars which we never do!

12/06/2023
Rome – For the Rugby

Wales is a country with only one true religion, Rugby. I have been a devout follower to this religion my whole life. I grew up in the 70’s when the players were more well known than any Pope would ever be. I was myself a player as a young man before my sporting path took me in a direction where my body type was more suited. But the passion for my local club and the national team still follows me wherever I am travelling or living in the world.

Last year whilst watching the six nations we thought it would be a great opportunity to watch my first live game after moving to Austria (no quality rugby here) as well as Leela’s first game ever and also combine a trip to Rome in the process. Something I had been harping on about the last 8 years!

Getting tickets was a lot more straightforward than trying to buy a ticket for a Cardiff game and after negotiating my way through the Italian website for an hour we had our seat numbers and the tickets had been patiently sat on the shelf for one whole year. Then finally it was time to be on our way and packing the van for the 5 day trip in a freezing Austria we were both very excited to be on the Road to Rome.

The drive there is very tedious. 800 km of just motorway and as we had only time for Rome and not to detour through the wonderful surrounding countryside we bit of a large chunk on a Wednesday evening, had a very disruptive night in a motorway gas station, and a very early start to arrive at our camp site before 12:00 on Thursday.

Just one word on the driving – Chaos. The Italians in general do not know how to drive and have Zero respect for any other road users. But in Rome it’s a whole new level of absurdness. Overtaking, undertaking, speeding, mobile phone use whilst smoking or doing their make-up, and the use of the horn if they think you are taking just one single second out of their drive is phenomenal.

Camping Village Flaminio is around 8 km from the centre of Rome and with the off season Acsi card is fairly reasonable for what it is. Clean-ish, small pitches, unfriendly receptionists, toilets and showers work-ish, and as a bonus you do get classical music pumping out at full volume whilst you shower! But you are ultimately there for the location rather than the hospitality. And after a terrifying 500m walk with no crossings or pavement to the train station which looked like something from the Bronx in the 70’s. It’s only a 20 minute ride to town.

We had both been to Rome before independently, Leela 23 years ago and me 11 years ago. So we were very much looking forward to sharing the experience together. And on the Wednesday afternoon we set off from the camp site on a 3 day expedition covering nearly 90 km by foot from one end of the city to the other and everywhere in between. We checked out all the famous sites from the Pantheon which is probably both our favourite building, the Spanish steps, the Trevi fountain, the Colosseum, St. Peters, and nearly every Roman ruin and park that is in the city. Returning to the van late each night hungry and exhausted but yet still full of energy after the amazing days experiences. The only thing we were unable to view was the Vatican as there were no tickets available and on Saturday we were unable to go because it was game day!

And to the game… We were excited to wake on Saturday morning especially when we saw that the weather forecast was over 20 degrees and sunny. And after a large breakfast we ran the gauntlet to the train station and soon we were in town and greeted by a sea of red and a lot of familiar accents. We spent most of the morning just wondering the streets and taking in the lovely atmosphere that only an international rugby match can bring. So many red jerseys, dragons, daffodils and general all round positivity, excitement and laughter. At midday we left the centre, bought a couple of cold ones, and made our way across the bridge to the Castle gardens where we sat in spring sunshine eating our packed lunch and enjoying a cold Peroni.

As the fans started to make their way toward the stadium we joined them for the hours walk along the river. It’s really amazing to see how much support we have for our national team and how many will travel from such a small country and at such expense, it felt like half of Wales were on their way to the game.

When we arrived at the main entry way to the stadium it was clear that it would be a sell-out crowd. The noise was building, the street vendors making a roaring trade and the supporters of both teams mixing together without a single issue. Such a difference from going to watch a soccer match. There is a different mindset in the rugby world.

After some very light security checks we were finally inside the ground and after buying a couple of overpriced beers which just had to be done we were at our quite fantastic seats on the 22 and enjoying the Italian hospitality and sunshine. The stadium, although at capacity of 75 thousand, seemed quite small to me. It was for sure very pretty inside and the blue sky enhanced the experience no end, but it didn’t seem to be that loud either and the noise escaped very easily, not really like a game in Cardiff. But when your home stadium is known as being the best in the world, I guess you are somewhat spoilt.

As kickoff approached Leela was really beginning to enjoy her first rugby experience. She was a little apprehensive at first as she, like me, does not like to be in the presence of large crowds. But it was such a nice and relaxed atmosphere with respect being shown by both sets of fans, so it was easy to enjoy. The game turned out really well, for Wales anyway, and the match went by so fast we lost track. The players walked the pitch at full time and gave the respect back to the travelling fans which is always a nice gesture win or lose. Then we made our way back to town with the thousands and we had a final couple of beers whilst sitting on the fountain of the Piazza del Popolo and talking of such a wonderful Rome experience.

We made our way back to the train and the van whilst the rest of the fans were making their way to the centre for what I am sure was a night filled with singing and maybe a few beers.

Leaving the next day was tough as it was now 23 degrees and full spring sunshine and warmth. This time we were unable to extend our stay, but we knew that soon we would be on the road again.

Diolch yn fawr iawn Rom.

14/03/2023