Leaving Paris we had a nightmare with the Sat-Nav. In all fairness it was the first time in a month it completely let us down and we spent a frustrating hour or so just getting to the outskirts of the City. But once we had changed a few settings that had mysteriously reset themselves we were back on track and driving through beautiful French countryside.
We stayed for a few days just outside Orleans where I managed to fix a few things in the van, repair the break in attempt, make a new shelf, and repair the bathroom door! We also found some new sport/hiking shoes for Leela as I had managed to leave them behind. We took some walks as well as a wonderful day out on the bikes to Château de Chambord along the Loire.
Driving on wonderful roads towards Limoges we pulled off to visit the WW2 War memorial at Oradour-sur-Glane where the camper aire was closed for repair so we continued to the next village to spend the night.
Returning the next morning we were the first people into the memorial which was in itself quit a sombre experience. It really is a horrific story and tragic to think that this could have taken place and also how such events are still happening today. Nevertheless a worthy tribute to those who perished unnecessarily.
Having some beautiful Croissants and a coffee cheered us up somewhat and we were back in the van and heading south for the Caves of Lascaux. We wanted to visit here for Leela to see the caves and the beginning of Art in our world but after getting there and speaking to reception we were put off spending a lot of money. There was only one English tour a day, too much tacky props, and in the end it was to see what was only a replica of the original anyway!
So after some thought Leela decided that she would learn enough from art books and we took the bikes out instead for a great tour around the local historic countryside and after a shower made our way west toward Bordeaux and the ocean.
The following morning we drove around Bordeaux and on to Cap Ferret staying in a really beautiful free municipal aire only a few hundred meters from the incredible beach of Grand Crohot. We were so excited to be at the ocean again and in the first warm weather of our trip so we left the van, packed a baguette, and headed straight out for the day.
The photos of this area did not disappoint and after getting on the beach we headed north for a few km walking the expansive beach with amazing soft sand and surrounded by dunes as far as you could see in both directions. Finding a nice spot out of the wind on the naturist beach Plage de la Jenny we settled down and just enjoyed this incredible environment for the rest of the day. Eating our packed lunch, Leela done some yoga, and I went for a dip in the still very cold Atlantic ocean.
Walking back late in the day we showered at the van and wanted to head back to the beach for sunset but as we were both quite tired from the fresh ocean air and from walking over 10km on soft sand we just had some wine and called it a night!
The next day we were fresh and up early for a long run along the coast before breakfast and spent the day the same as the last on the beach. But as later in the afternoon the weather was turning a little we walked even further down the coastline before returning to the van.
After another quiet night we decided as the weather was getting colder again to move on to Bordeaux. We stayed a couple of nights at the Village camping just outside the city and rode the bikes into the centre for a look around. It was quite a charming place and if the weather were a little better would have been nice to hang around but with heavy rain forecast we made our way back along the Dordogne and back to the camp.
We had planned at least another week in the area before we had to return home but as the weather forecast was absolutely terrible and our plans only included lying on the beach we decided to make our way back across the country and home a little earlier for springtime in Austria. After all it was only a few months before we would be heading out again!
Summer had gone by without even noticing it was here in the first place. Terrible weather, storms, devastating local flooding. So it was time for us to take a break and spend some time together away from our area. I was in a situation to take some longer time away but Leela not so much, so we had to make a Tour Plan.
Part I – Millstättersee
First was a weekend at Millstättersee to try to unwind for a couple of days. We visited this FKK campsite last year (diary entry) and liked the views and the Lake side bathing area. This time we didn’t do any cycling but only ran in the mornings, spent the day at the lake, and the evenings at the van. Nice and simple and just what we wanted.
The campsite was as the previous time and we had a lovely couple of days together and at 5pm on Sunday we said our goodbyes. Her returning to home and me heading in the opposite direction to continue to my next destination.
Part II – Italian Dolomites
Leaving Kärnten late on Sunday afternoon I had quite a lovely drive through East Tyrol to the Italian border at Cillian and then into the Dolomite Mountain range where my first stop was to see the towers of Tre-Chime.
I had a nice plan to park-up at a location where it should have been quiet and hike up to the hut and around the towers the following morning. Wow was I in for a surprise! It’s the second week of September and already off-season with the kids back in school. So I fully expected to only see like minded outdoor enthusiasts and maybe some retired people on tour, but I was not prepared for the sensory onslaught and sheer amount of people on the mountain. I did eventually find a parking place and enjoyed a couple of beers watching Wales win their first game in the World Cup, before going to bed way too late for me and slightly drunk!
Waking early it was full gas to have breakfast, make sandwiches and be on the trail by 7am. But incredibly the toll road was already queuing for over a KM at this time. Fortunately my hiking path took me away from the road and a very pleasant hike through lush forest to the hut. And heres where the fun starts.
I have no actual idea how many cars, vans, campers and buses were parked up there but I have never seen anything like it before. There was also every conceivable person here as well. Everything from flip flops, trainers, sweatpants, jeans, a girl in a dress, the Instagram hunters in full matching luminous gear all the way through to complete winter mountaineering packs. Not to mention the E-bikes, dogs both on lead and being carried in handbags and a Chinese man in full black Burka. Presumably to stop the sun. Quite unreal if you weren’t there. Oh and didn’t I mention the Drones… The F * * * * * G drones! Even though there is a complete ban on them in the national park.
The views up there are quite spectacular in every direction. The mountain range is quite unique from any other with the rock formations giving an incredible vista against the crisp blue morning sky. The weather was just perfect and although it was still relatively early it was getting quite warm. So after a quick sandwich to re-fuel as I had already hiked over 5km, I began the circular walk around the towers so you can get a full idea of how large these rocks are.
The path begins like a road which takes you to the next hut but then its a short climb to the viewing platform from where you get a first glimpse of the 3 towers. It really is an incredible piece of rock and well worth the physical effort of getting there. Or just drive there like everyone else.
As you drop down some meters you get an even better view of the scale of them and as the sun was still behind, a marvellous view of the outline against the blue sky.
From here the main path (basically a road) heads further away to the Instagram photo platform but by this time I had enough of the crowds and took the more difficult path through the boulder field and re-joined the masses again at the next hut before a last gimps of the rocks and returning to the start.
By now it was swarming there with bus fulls of tour groups and the late sleepers. The noise for me was getting too much as a group of 20-30 German Porsche “enthusiasts” were hearing up and down the street showing off their overly priced and quite pointless private parts. So it was time to head back into the forest, eat the rest of my food by a beautiful river and make my way to the van.
I guess you should take the time to visit Tre Chime if you are in the Dolomites as it really is truly magnificent. But if you love nature and peace and quiet. You are going to be very disappointed.
After a shower and a cold beer by a lovely lake I had a couple of hours in the afternoon sun deciding what to do next. And after a nice hot meal with a view I put everything away and was on the road to my next destination.
Lago di Sorapis is probably second behind Tre Chime on the Instagram to do list so I was fully not expecting to be alone there. Nevertheless I took the short evening drive to where I was expecting to park but as per the previous night there was just no chance. I have never seen so many cars and campers on a mountain pass and I have followed the Tour de France many times! So I drove 2 km further to the huge car park of the ski lifts and although there was a lot of construction work going on, had a very peaceful night with a spectacular view from the van window.
Up a tad later than I would have liked due to the previous days energy output and a couple of beers, I was packed and on the trail a little before 8am. The extra couple of km’s done and I was at the trailhead reasonably alone still with just a few people who generally looked like they knew what they were doing.
The trail starts, and indeed continues, in just the most spectacular scenery. The mountains are incredible in every direction which means making progress can be a little disjointed due to all the stopping to look at the views and photo taking. The first sections are through lush forest on easy going paths before it becomes steeper and more technical in places as you get closer to the lake. But easily manageable if you are fit and have a good head for heights as well as sure footing.
The weather once more was perfect with very warm temperatures no wind and blue skies and on reaching the lake these conditions made it look even more picture perfect. I was a little surprised to see the amount of people already hanging around but most I think had been staying at the hut and were viewing it after their breakfast.
I stopped for a while to eat my lunch and take in the surroundings but unfortunately again the peace and tranquility was spoilt by the general loudness of the new generation in such environments, but by far the worst is the constant flying of drones. What an absolute nuisance to the mountaineer and nature lover. The bans and fines should be somehow enforced. But after my lunch I took one last walk around this majestic lake and made my way back down the mountain and back to the van for a welcome shower and food.
It really was a fantastic trail and to have that lake at the end of it a delight. Both Tre Chime and Lago di Sorapis are must sees if you are visiting the Dolomites and are a mountain lover. Just have the patience of a Saint whilst on the trail, even in so called off season.
Over my dinner I could see that the weather was really changing for the worse the next two days so I decided to leave a day earlier than planned and head to the ocean for the next part of the plan.
Part III – Baška or maybe Punat…
It was a beautiful drive down through the Dolomites on a lovely evening. The traffic was kind and even the Highway was no stress all the way to Traviso, even if there was a little anxiety with the fuel range reading zero and me having a further 50km to get to the border with Slovenia for 50 cents a litre cheaper Diesel.
Stress over and as it was still early enough and a lovely evening I decided to continue driving to Croatia and stopped for the night at a lovely spot under the KRK bridge and watched the sunset drop slowly behind the boats in the Harbour.
The next morning was an early start so after a coffee I was on the road down to the south of the island. First stop was to wash the van as it had taken some collateral damage the last weeks driving then to a supermarket just outside Baška where I was very surprised that at 8am they had no fresh produce and very little alcohol. So I just bought the very basics and made my way to Bunculuka camp site a further few minutes down the road and when I arrived I realised why the supermarket was so empty. The place was absolutely rammed.
We both have been going to this camp for many, many years, and I have never failed to get a choice of pitches at any time of the year. But the receptionist said “No” absolutely full, every single pitch taken or reserved and already a queue of vans lined up to take the next one out’s pitch. Just total and utter chaos and a very unpleasant atmosphere everywhere.
So I hung around for a couple of hours, used the showers, took a dip in the amazing ocean and bought some bread from the bakery. Wondered around searching for a place but to no avail. Enough was enough so I returned to the receptionist who could not understand why I was leaving, picked up my passport and was unexpectedly on the road again a lot sooner than I would have liked.
Next on the original plan would have been to go to camp Konobe in Punat which is only 30 minutes drive to the west of the island. There we have also been many times and indeed we got engaged there last May. So after a normal arrival, a choice of nice pitches, and a quick look around, I was already setting up in a beautiful pitch with an amazing view and hopefully not moving for the next week or so.
The rest of the day was spent doing chores that a week on the road and in the mountains catch up on you. Camper service, washing clothes, essential shopping and a clean up of the van so that it was at least respectable for when Leela arrived for the weekend.
I spent the next couple of days in very pleasant weather, running, SUP, listening to music, reading and just hanging around in this incredible location. And when Leela arrived, we done exactly the same. A wonderful time together that went way too quick and a sadness when she had to leave on Sunday evening.
I spent the rest of the week there alone in sometimes nice but mostly bad weather with a very wet font all around. But nevertheless it was very nice just to sit and enjoy the view and do some planning for our Trips in 2024.
If you talk about Naturism in Croatia then for sure Valalta camping will be mentioned. It was founded in 1968 and is the largest nudist camp in the whole of Croatia, occupying over 5 km of pristine Coastline. And it’s just HUGE!
We normally do not like such places and try to avoid any campsite that can accommodate more than a 1000 people but after treating couple for massage at our local FKK campsite and hearing about their recent trip there we decided to give it a try over the following long weekend.
The first thing that hits you when you arrive, after the huge sign outside the campsite for a swingers club, is that there are no reservations for the place. You just arrive, check in, and drive around until you find a free pitch that suits you. It’s uncomplicated and incredibly easy for the camp and the sheer mass of numbers allows them to operate this way. But unfortunately its a real pain in the arse for the visitor, especially if you have never been there before.
The camp is just HUGE and with a rabbit warren of tiny streets its almost impossible to decide on a pitch whilst also concentrating on your driving and avoiding the half asleep and hungover guests standing in the middle of the road first thing in the morning. But after 30 minutes searching we finally settled on a pitch that also had a sea view which we were hoping for.
The next hour was spent setting up and finally having some breakfast before returning to the check in to give our pitch number and taking a walk around the site together with a visit to the very impressive and well stocked supermarket which pretty much had everything from camping chairs to their own self made wine and beer.
Continuing on our 5 km walk we checked out the impressive sport complex with tennis, soccer and basketball courts. The two mini golf areas, swimming pool complex, car wash, shops and finally the hilltop viewing towers overlooking the Lim Canal. Then returning along the coastline, past the marina, bars, seaside pools and beaches, before returning to the van. Did I mention that this place was HUGE?!
The rest of the day was first spent going for a run through the nearby forest, lounging at the van and lying by the pool before the main event of cooking steak and chips for dinner which we had been looking forward to.
The next day we had a long bike tour planned so after breakfast and preparing a packed lunch we headed off. First through thick forest along the side of the canal then cutting inland through some real charming mountain bike paths before reaching the coast again around 10 km below Rovinj. Here we connected with the lovely coastal path that ran through a terribly overrun and loud camping before stopping for our lunch at nice FKK beach and grass park under the trees.
Back on the bikes following this sublime path to Rovinj where we had planned another stop to look around the town as we enjoyed it so much last year when we visited for the day. But there must have just been a cruise ship arrival as it was completely full so we just rode on through the masses without stopping this time.
Joining the coastal path again after the town it was a short ride through some lovely forest before rejoining the road at the swingers club and then back to the van with the last of the afternoon spent lying at the pool. A really nice and recommended tour if you are staying at the camp.
The weather on Saturday was not so great so we relaxed around the van and took a long walk around the full extremities of the camp. After lunch it began to open up again so we made a fun few rounds of golf before taking to the tennis courts to try out our new rackets!
Sunday we had to leave and of course the sun shone all day without a cloud in the sky! So we just lay by the ocean in the morning and took a couple of swims and after lunch we left the pitch and made the most of the pool area before reluctantly peeling ourselves away for the journey home.
We very rarely get overly excited about a camp site but we were both really taken by Valalta. We loved the fact that it was based on a first come basis. We were really impressed that there were no dogs allowed on the site which makes it both cleaner and quieter. It was spectacularly clean and well maintained for such a huge site. All the facilities functioned correctly. The sport complex was perfect for us and the location suited our sporting lifestyle with plenty of bike and running tours possible in relative safety. The supermarket was well stocked and the pool area a real bonus.
If we had to pick up on something negative then we would have to say that it is really expensive to stay there and the cost of 15€ for one hour of tennis also put us off playing more than once which we would have liked to have done. But you really do get what you pay for and as they are for sure not short of customers they can get away with charging what they want. That said, we have paid the same before for absolutely terrible sites so it is all relative.
It was a fantastic few days and we will for sure return sooner than later. We have been so fortunate this month to have stayed in two new campsites to us which have been spectacular but for completely different reasons. Firstly Mali Raj in Slovenia (diary entry) for its tiny intimacy and idyllic location and now Valalta in Istria which manages to keep quality in all of its hugeness!
Slovenia is a lovely country to travel. It has wonderful mountains, lakes and countryside but unfortunately for us very little coastline. This is due to its transition from a region within Yugoslavia to an independent country. The details of which are confusing to me, as with all politics, but I believe that it actually could have been worse and at least they did manage to hold on to 45 km of coast that the region always had before the break-up.
That said we don’t go to the Slovenian coast as we just don’t like it so much. Too compact, too many people and quite frankly, too loud. Not to mention the lack of campsites there. But Slovenia has many wonderful locations to choose from inland. The countryside reminds me a lot of Wales and the campsites also. Lush green fields and rivers with traditional Welsh grassed campsites in the mountains or at riversides. Still giving the feeling of when tents ruled the camp grounds and not luxurious motorhomes.
There is also a distinct lack of FKK campsites in Slovenia which we find remarkable as the FKK Camps in Croatia are literally drowning in Slovenian people. But in their own country there are only two part FKK part textile camps which do not interest us as much as we don’t like in the segregation and only one dedicated FKK camp in the whole country. Which is where we would like to talk about.
Mali Raj is located in the Novo Mesto area of Slovenia deep in the countryside and not all that far from the border with Croatia. It is a very small and basic site run by a father and daughter and lies quite beautifully along the banks of the River Krka. It is wonderfully maintained and can accommodate around 50 guests at full capacity although the owner informed us that she never overloads the site so that it keeps its space and freedom.
We arrived on Friday evening a lot later than we had planned and we were very surprised entering the site. Firstly to see its incredible beauty and secondly to see that there was not another single person there. Driving down the entrance road you immediately are overtaken by the location and as we were surveying all of the parking options a very cheerful lady appeared at the side of the van.
Katja is the daughter of the partnership and her helpfulness and enthusiasm not only for the camp but also for the area really is apparent. She advised which plots are better for our type of camper but as there was nobody there we just took the first one but any of the riverside plots are amazing. She left us to sort ourselves out and after a walk around to get our bearings in the setting sun, we headed back to the van for a glass of wine whilst looking out on to the majestic flowing river sweeping by directly in front of our door.
The night was so peaceful and we woke to the morning sun lighting up patches of green all around. We were so overcome by our surroundings and complete peace and quiet, something that is not possible to experience at home, that we decided to skip our morning run and just enjoy this gift we had been given.
The day passed with short walks along the river, reading, painting, sunbathing, a cold beer and a very cold dip in the river. And best of all was that you could be naked the whole day as the warm sun shone down until late in the afternoon. It was really incredible that not one single other person, anywhere, thought that it would be a good idea to visit this particular camp on a weekend where it was only sunny and 25 degrees?! In fact the only person we saw that day was Katja who came to make sure that we were ok and to give us some maps and tour advice which we shall use on our next visit.
After such a wonderful day we once again had a peaceful night with only the river as company and woke to another beautiful day. This time we did venture out on our morning run through some idyllic forest before spending much of the day as the one before.
Talking to both Katja and her father during the day we were already making plans for a return visit but next time for longer and with the bikes. There is so much to explore in the surrounding countryside by foot or by bike as well as some local tennis courts to play. And if the weather turns bad then there is always the option of the nearby Terme which we visited last year (diary entry) and can also easily be reached by foot or bike directly from the campsite.
The camp has basic facilities but is immaculately clean and well kept. It can accommodate a moderately large camper with good driving as well as many tent pitches. There is electric if you need it, hot water, and a camper service at the entrance. And with its unique location there is nothing more you need if you are a true nature lover.
We were both really taken by this natural paradise, its peacefulness, its beauty, and the relaxed manner of its naturist owners. We were of course phenomenally fortunate to have this paradise completely to ourselves for a whole weekend and in perfect weather but there is no doubt that we will return as soon as we have an opportunity to this real Slovenian hidden gem.
For Christmas and New Year we both had time for a longer holiday so we decided on a tour of Tuscany in Italy. Although Leela had spent a lot of time there in the past for me it was a region that I had somehow missed. I don’t quite know why as it was absolutely incredible.
The van was now ready for winter and colder travel with the last of the piping and electrical modifications completed a few days before. So after going to the Auto wash for an hour and removing the 2 inches of ice from the roof and solar panels which had built up we were ready to load up and leave the snow and freezing conditions of Austria.
As we headed out late in the afternoon of December 23rd we first had to negotiate the snowy motorway toward the Italian border. And as the temperature gauge slowly climbed above freezing we left the high mountains in the rear view and began our journey south. First past Venice in the setting sun, then Bologna, before the crazy holiday traffic built up as we approached Florence. Which was fine as this was where we were making our first stop at Lago di Bilancino. And after a quite chaotic stop in the local store we were at our destination lake side around 9pm.
Not wanting to fill the boiler water system before leaving for fear of freezing I bled the hot and cold on arrival to find a small leak in my new valve system. A panic filled 30 minutes later and all was fixed and it just turned out to be that I had not tightened the valve clips up enough.
Arriving late and leaving early did not give us a chance to explore the area but the views looked great and I am sure a nice place to visit again. But this time we had a whole lot more interesting things on our list.
San Gimignano
First was a drive to San Gimignano, a truly wonderful hill-top town famous for its four towers. After finally finding a parking place that could fit the van in such tight surroundings we spent a lovely morning exploring, drinking coffee, and enjoying delicious croissants in this idyllic town.
Then later in the afternoon we drove to our destination for Christmas which was a lovely park-up at the foot of Monteriggioni. And after a quick walk round the village which doesn’t take long as its only a couple of hundred meters wide we went for a run in the local woods before watching the sunset from our perfect vantage point.
Siena
Waking early on Christmas morning to a beautiful blue sky and crisp day we exchanged a few wonderful gifts, had a large breakfast, and then took our bikes on the 20 km ride through the back roads to Siena.
Parking the bikes directly in Piazza del Campo we had a lovely few hours exploring the town, eating the most amazing pistachio croissant, and laying in the square soaking in the Italian Christmas atmosphere in the warm sun. Hard to believe that they hold a crazy horse race here. Getting back to the van at sunset we got cleaned up and had some perfectly cooked hamburgers for our Christmas dinner.
Gladiator
Boxing day we left and drove the chianti road stopping in Radda for a walk around then in a hillside lay-by for the perfect pasta lunch with amazing views.
Back on the road south with a stop at the delightful hilltop town of Montalcino, then a stop at Russel Crowes house in Gladiator, and finally the most idyllic park-up we have ever had, smack bang in the middle of the most photographed landscape in perhaps all of Italy.
We enjoyed a perfect sunset, a quiet night, and an even more perfect sunrise. The morning light filtering through the mist that was holding to the incredible landscape with Cyprus and Pine trees lining the horizon in every direction. A landscape photographer’s dream location.
Bagni San Fillipo
After breakfast was a short drive to the first of two natural hot-springs we would visit in succession. Bagni San Fillipo is a series of hillside pools surrounded by forest. Its mostly visited by locals for its so called healing properties and flies a little under the radar. At this time of year it was very quiet and we were able to enjoy one pool just to ourselves. It was quite wet and dirty getting to the pools but once in, the water was nearly 40°C and very difficult to get out of again! After a couple of lovely hours there we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and made the drive through the countryside to our next overnight stop at Saturnia.
Saturnia
Saturnia is a spa town which has been inhabited, as most towns in this region have, since ancient times. Its most famous for its sulphurous hot-spring pools which cascade at the side of an abandoned mill. These pools hold water at around 37°C and are formed by the deposition of calcareous rock from the evaporation of the water under the gushing waterfall. Its really a spectacular sight and a joy to just lie in for much longer than is probably recommended!
The van park was quite dilapidated with very uneven access, a sanitary area that really needs an upgrade and a camper service that needed to be condemned. But it served a purpose even at a high price and as it was the only park-up within reasonable walking distance.
Arriving late in the afternoon we went immediately to the pools and were a little surprised to find it completely full. It’s an incredible natural phenomenon and still free to access so it has continuous traffic through the day. And although we enjoyed it, there were far too many people for us so we went back to the van and enjoyed a sunset meal and an early night.
The next morning we were already back at the pools before sunrise which seemed to be the perfect time for us as there were only 2 other people there for the next 60 minutes. We enjoyed a wonderful time jumping between the pools and being pounded by the waterfalls. We were already making our way back for breakfast and smelling of sulphur before the masses had even opened their eyes.
Later that morning we took the bikes out to explore the countryside on a track found on my usual app for such things. Normally these tracks are pretty accurate but this time after a lovely start on hard packed farm tracks the route we wanted to take had been locked shut. So after checking the map there seemed to be a very short work around which involved crossing a field and a river before returning to path on the other side. Easy…
This however turned out to be the most challenging couple of hours for both of us. The river crossing was fine. Indeed quite exciting as it was a run-off from the pools and thus still hot. But then we found ourselves in the most horrific wet mud that was impossible to ride over or indeed even push the bikes. Include the sound of gunfire going off all around us by the local boar hunters and this provided a torturous hour before we reached the original intended path which was less than one km away.
After getting there and the bikes now completely inoperable, we found a small stream and spent the next hour trying to clean them to a point where they would be ridable again. This felt like it took forever and by the time we reached the asphalt once more we were both pretty exhausted and very hungry. So we just made our way back on the road to the park-up, cleaned the bikes and us both the best we could with a hose pipe, and just had some lunch. The longest 13 km bike ride of my life! At sunset we went back to the pools, but once again it was too full for us so we decided just to call it a night.
The following day we went again at dawn and found ourselves completely alone there and once again were able to enjoy all the pools and waterfalls naked. We stayed for a long time before breakfast and clearing the sulphur from our bodies at the park-up showers and then were once again on the road to our destination for New Year.
Assisi
Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis the shared patron saint of Italy. The town is of high religious significance not only for Italians but to all followers around the globe. And even for two complete Atheists like ourselves it holds a lot of interest.
The hillside town really is quite the spectacle and after arriving through the valley we made our way to the quite delightful hillside campsite situated only a couple of km’s walk away. This campsite was pretty much empty when we arrived and we had the pick of the plots so we chose a perfect position with views through the trees over the valley and walked into town to explore.
Assisi really has a lot going on. From its labyrinth of tiny streets, wonderful artisan shops selling everything from exquisite jewellery, fresh foods, handmade art supplies, all the way through to every conceivable piece of tat that your average religious nut job could dream of. And after a lot of exploring, visiting the castle, and doing some photography, we eventually arrived at the church.
Now normally you wouldn’t get me within a mile of a church door but Leela being an artist and student of the Italian greats got me inside to look at the world renowned frescos. And I must say I was incredibly impressed how these masterpieces had stood the test of a 1000 years.
Putting the slavery, pain, hardship and general horrific abuse that the church/rich inflicted on the normal person to create these wonders, it was quite a marvel. The ability to create such buildings, carvings and paintings in that time and with the tools on offer is quite mind blowing. And it was a joy to see Leela appreciating these frescos from the ability and perspective of their creators.
Returning to the camp in the early evening we were greeted by a now constant flow of Italian campervans making their way in. The campsite had a limit of 50 according to their information but by late evening they were well past that number and waking up on New Year’s Eve there were vans crammed in every conceivable space which made us very nervous and claustrophobic.
So by mid morning we were out on the bikes and high on the mountainside forest roads in peace and quiet and far away from the noise and mass crowds. Knowing we would have to experience it again soon, we reluctantly made our way back, got cleaned up, and walked into town just as the sun was setting giving us a much better show than any fireworks could.
We enjoyed a glass of wine in the square as they prepared for the nights entertainment and then made our way back to the van as everyone else was making their way out. We spent New Year’s Eve in our own little world, had a few drinks and watched the fireworks from our high vantage point over the valley.
Rimini
The following morning we were up and on the road early. We had to get out of the campsite before the now packed site began to surface. There must have been over a 100 vans in there and the chaos to get out would have taken hours. So leaving the hillside morning sunshine we drove down into the valley fog not knowing that we wouldn’t see the blue sky again for the rest of our trip.
We headed east towards the coast with a first stop at Portonovo which is situated in the del Conero national park. It turned out to be a bit of a strange place. Untidy, littered, and it was made much worse by the thick fog. But we had a walk on the beach and it was nice to be at the ocean again.
The next day we drove to Rimini, but once again the thick fog spoiled the drive and the beach. So we walked around the old town which was nice and the beach front which was terrible and after an evening and following morning beach run, we continued north wishing we had gone south!
Delta del Po
Next stop was at the Delta del Po nature reserve. We stayed here last November and had a lovely time and thoroughly enjoyed the peace and nature (diary entry). We chose a different park-up this time at the end of an island and the peace in the late afternoon listening to the birds was magical, if only we could have seen them through the fog.
We were having a restful night there until around 4:30 am when a couple of cars arrived and 6 or 7 men were out in the pitch dark looking for something in the long grass all around us. This freaked us out somewhat and kept our attention until daybreak when we felt a little more at ease. That was until they started unloading their guns on whatever poor defenceless animal they were hunting. So it was time to leave this wonderful environment when we still had a full list of working parts.
Caorle
Last stop on our trip was Caorle but once more we had wished we had just stayed in Tuscany. A built up holiday town filled to the brim with people that we had spent the last 2 weeks trying our best to avoid. It was nice to see such places but they hold no interest to us. And we would never visit there in the summer months. But it was nice to take a walk on the beach at sunset and enjoy an early morning run before leaving for home.
A truly amazing Christmas and New Year trip. Tuscany is a region we would gladly re-visit and recommend to everyone. An astonishing landscape to be enjoyed by nature and photography lovers.
A happy new year to everyone and best wishes from us both for the coming years travel and adventure.
It was the end of October already and we were missing the heat of summer. With a bank holiday in Austria we were choosing somewhere to go for a long weekend when I checked the weather to see a forecast for KRK in Croatia that was very exciting. Sunshine, no wind, 25°C, clear skies! Nothing to think about really.
Driving to Baška on a Wednesday evening in late October we thought would be easy but unfortunately the Slovenian roadworks cost us an extra couple of hours in tailbacks on the motorway so we were arriving on KRK island as the supermarket was closing at 9pm. A quick grab of the essentials for the weekend and we were being escorted out by the large security guard who was understandably desperate to get home and 45 minutes later and we were in Baška and it was now just past 10pm, so past our bedtime! Yes, we are early to bed people but we are also very early to rise people and enjoy the early mornings much more than the late nights.
Waking to the most incredible view being parked directly at the ocean is a joy and something we for sure do not take for granted as we had a just unbelievable park-up and the van did not move for the next 4 days!
With the forecast even better than expected we had four days of clear blue skies and temperatures of up to 28 degrees. It was summer again and we had an incredible time running along the promenade each morning in just shorts, hiking the coastal paths naked and enjoying quiet beaches, swimming in the ocean and bringing our fading suntans back to life. Something we really did not expect at this time of year. But a word of warning if your fiancé is an artist. Don’t fall asleep on the beach next to her or you wake up with watercolored painted nails.
The beaches were nearly all completely empty and I just lay in the sun all day reading and watching Leela paint and sketch and take a few dips into the fresh Croatian Ocean. The evenings were spent watching the sunsets, taking walks into town for some photography and just hanging out in the van watching the ocean only a few meters away.
A really amazing and unexpected few days away and on Sunday we were very reluctant to leave. But after another few hours on the beach and some lunch we were on our way home again. Back in Austria late in the evening it was zero degrees and we really were not happy after only 5 hours earlier we had been lying naked on a beach in 28 degrees.
Welcome to the Austrian winter for the next 4 months!
Summer has passed by in a blur, it’s now September and already it feels like Autumn has its firm hand upon my shoulder. But before it completely disappeared I did manage to have a beautiful night enjoying the magic of the outdoors.
The new and hip term for it these days among men who have groomed beards, spend their weeks in suits and weekends in expensive outdoor gear is ‘Micro Adventure’ I believe. I just call it a night in the hills…
Spending the night in the mountains is quite daunting for some and I can understand this as I recall my first ever evening in the wild. A very young man, alone on a Welsh hillside, lying awake all night listening to every single noise and wondering when I was going to be hacked to death by some lunatic ice axe wielding mountaineer or worse still savaged by an out of control rabid Welsh Sheep.
The truth though is that its one of the most rewarding and fantastic ‘free’ experiences that you can have. You don’t have to do it alone, go with a friend or in a group. If you pick your location wisely and are confident with the weather then you don’t need too much expensive gear or expert knowledge, just make sure that you think it through and then enjoy it for what it is.
Late one hot afternoon I drove with the car to the Eisenkappler Hutte, which sits on the south slope of the Hochobir, enjoyed an ice cold Beer, and then made my way along the testing path for around 90 minutes to the summit at 2142m.
The Hochobir is a really beautiful mountain with views all through southern Carinthia. The weather was immaculate with 25 degrees for the late afternoon hike and after passing everyone making their way down the mountain, I found myself alone on the summit.
Setting up camp didn’t take long as I just had a tarp, thermal mat and sleeping bag to lay on the ground and then I could sit back and enjoy the majestic summers evening and the solitude of the mountain.
As the sun and the temperature slowly faded, I dived into my sleeping bag and watched the sky change through a myriad of colours before the Milky Way finally made its appearance. The night sky was just so unbelievably amazing that I found myself trying to stay awake all through the night to gaze at the colours across the horizon line and the incredible clarity of the stars from this high altitude vantage point.
The night went by way too fast but soon I had the excitement of waiting for the sunrise… For this the silence and solitude on the mountain was broken by some early hikers making their way to the summit who had made the effort to experience it from this viewpoint.
Packing up my gear after the sun was already blazing its way through the sky, I made my way back down in time for the first coffee at the hut and I was able to sit in the early morning sun and think about this amazing night under the stars. Sitting there I realised something that has been nagging me all year. Stop looking for excuses. Just go out and do it.
Holidays in high season… chaos, noise, kids! This is normally every single thing that we try to avoid but this summer it worked out that we were both off for a full two weeks with a summer break so we decided to give it a try!
Wanting to go somewhere different and as everything was already booked up we chose to go back to Istria but this time to a huge campsite which again we never normally do.
We decided on Koversada FKK resort near Vsar. It had decent reviews and the location seemed perfect for our plans. Active options for cycling, running and SUP together with a lot of bathing opportunities and blue flag beaches. Many good reviews on the Facebook group but worryingly many bad also. Some minor theft which we fortunately did not experience but the main concern being men hanging around taking video and photographs and groups of young men staying there but not naturist. unfortunately all of these we did experience.
Making our way down south from Austria late on a Wednesday evening we encountered no traffic and we decided to stay overnight once more at Roberto’s. A wonderful spot which you can read more about on our last post – FKK Kanegra. Leaving early enough for a quick passage through the border we made our way toward Vsar when we saw a Mcdonalds and quickly decided that a Croatian sausage and egg McMuffin with a coffee would go down very nicely and after polishing off double helpings we were on the road to Koversada.
The reception was quite small considering the camp size and as we had already booked in on-line the process was quick and easy. They had given us a pre-booked pitch but as there were many pitches available we decided to take a look around and after a very sweaty and long walk we decided just to take the one they gave us. Partly because it was quite close to the ocean and the neighbours seemed nice, but mostly because we couldn’t be arsed to look anymore! Number 2004.
We are not new to this and I honestly thought that we could cope with the pitch having no shade. But after a couple of hours there and realising that our 2 quiet female German neighbours had now increased to 8 very loud and very drunk adults, 2 dogs, and a screaming kid. We decided to move on. So off on the bikes to look for a quiet pitch.
We found 2 shady and quiet pitches. Numbers 802 preferred and 717 second choice. So back to reception to ask and she said that 802 would be free for our whole stay. Pack up everything in 40 degrees, drive to new pitch, unpack everything and set-up awning and all the paraphernalia for a 2 week stay. And one incredibly sweaty hour later and as I was hammering in the final peg. Leela says… whats the number of this pitch Ry? Everything sank. I didn’t even bother to look as I knew I had fucked up. I had only driven to pitch 717 by accident.
Pack up everything in 40 degrees, drive to new pitch, unpack everything and set-up awning and all the paraphernalia. And one incredibly sweaty hour later and as I was hammering in the final peg. Leela hands me an ice cold beer!
We had planned to be there early and set-up by 10:00 am so we could have enjoyed the full day. Instead it was now nearly 5pm and I was exhausted. We had set-up and taken down our pitch 3 times in very hot temperatures but finally we had a cold beer and could laugh at my complete arse-up of a day.
The next day we could start our holiday for real. Checking out the vastness of the campsite, finding the best bakery for morning Bureks, swimming in the clear ocean and general relaxing at the van.
As a note, I had broken a bone in my foot a week before the trip and my movement was quite limited so our active holiday was much more sedate than we would have liked but we tried to make the most of it. Running was not possible for me but Leela ran every morning when I got breakfast together. Returning each day with info about the local area, the best fish markets and the general comings and goings of the campsite.
Of our activities I did manage a couple of bike rides. The first was exploring the forests to the head of the Lim Canal. The dock area turned out to be very nice although a little run-down after seeing better years but a lovely beer in the sun nonetheless. The ride home was superb through the forest in the evening setting sun only stopping to do a little route finding.
The second bike trip was up the coast to Porec. We had hoped that there would be a series of bike paths running along the coastline to enjoy but it turned into an episode of wacky races. Just jumping from path to road trying not to be run over in the process. Porec turned out to be very busy. Too many people and not enough space to host them all. Of course we were not helping by being there either.
So after a stressful ride around the town we found a bakery and sat on a park bench in the shade watching a completely different world to ours go about their business. The ride back was a little calmer as we found some off-road paths that were away from the traffic but we were glad to be once more sitting at the van.
The only other bike tour, apart from riding around the campsite, was a short ride to Vsar which was a lovely little dock village. It was of course overrun but I think quite charming out of season.
We both love stand-up paddling but this proved to be a little more problematic for my foot due to the roughness of the water from the constant boat traffic. But we did manage one long trip quite far up the Canal which is recommended and also a shorter trip around the camp island which was also very nice apart from the roughness of the water.
All together it was a very nice couple of weeks there but something we would not do again in high season. It’s really just not for us. There are options for cycling, running and SUP and of course the ocean is there. But we did not swim mainly because of the amount of jelly fish there were in the water. Something we had not experienced before whilst travelling through Croatia. And unfortunately there were many more bad sides to this campsite in high season.
The utter disrespect that some people have for others never ceases to amaze us. The cleaners on the site are working 10 hours a day in 40 degree heat and for pittance, just so that people can leave the showers and toilets in such a disgusting and filthy way.
This site being so large had quite a cross section of humanity on it. We are naturists, we visit many naturist campsites, beaches and lakes, we are middle-aged and not naive. We are both in a body condition that is not the normal for such places so we tend to attract attention wherever we go. We don’t like it, it’s just the way it is. But we tend to ignore everything that goes on around us.
But many of the people on this campsite were not naturist. They were people who just want to expose themselves to others in a legal environment. I can only talk of the men who are the worst but Leela says that the women were no better, just more discrete.
The looks and staring whilst touching themselves, although horrible, can just be ignored but when repulsive men comment on Leela’s body whilst standing right in front of her and with me there also, just shows how disgusting some men are with their treatment of women as objects.
I really wish that this was an isolated incident but on at least 3 occasions with me there and once when she was alone and on that occasion she told him exactly what she thought of him but this just fuelled his fire and gave him even more repulsive energy whilst taking ours from us.
And I wish it was just us it was happening to but even on the Koversada facebook page there were mentions of men hanging around taking photos and video.
I will dedicate a post to this subject and discuss the differences between the internet perception of naturism laid to you by Instagram and people like Naked Wanderings, British Naturism, etc. who are ignoring the problem and really not talking about the real state of Naturism that would take away from their personal gain. But it exists and it’s not going away.
Anyway with all this negativity about humans we did have a pretty nice time there. We cannot comment about any restaurants as we did not want to eat out and socialise after everything that was happening during the day. But we had a lovely take out pizza from the site. We had an amazing freshly caught Sea Brine from the local fish market that we cooked ourselves and we enjoyed many wonderful sunsets as well as an incredible moon one evening. We will avoid these giant camps from now on in high season and stick to our preferred type of Naturist locations.
Happy Naturist travels everyone, and be careful out there.
We had planned for this long weekend a tour of Carinthia utilising our Kärnten cards with lots chair lifts and hiking. This trip I had been planning for quite some time and we were really looking forward to it. But life is unpredictable and 2 days before I had very innocuously caught the outside of my foot on the leg of a chair in the house and as it turned out, broken my foot.
So hiking was not an option and whilst we were loading the van on Friday afternoon we still had no idea. But now our focus had changed from the mountains to the ocean. We knew that everything would be fully booked as we were just entering august so after an online search for the nearest FKK camp that had a free place we were given the option of camp Kanegra, which was only a few km’s over the border from Slovenia near the town of Umag. We both knew nothing of this place and after changing our kit choice in the van from mountains to ocean which is a whole lot easier as we need no clothes, we were off once more.
Not wanting to drive over the mountain passes with my foot we decided for a change to take the freeway via the Karawanken tunnel. And apart from the Toll, it was a much more relaxing drive than through the mountains.
On the way down and as it was already getting into late afternoon Leela was searching for a park-up for the evening near the border so that we could drive to the camp early next morning. She came up with Roberto’s near the border and in one of the Slovenian wine regions.
We arrived quite late and took the last parking place that was available just in time to watch a glorious sunset over the vineyards with the ocean in the distance. The park spot was great at 10€ and there was a toilet, cold shower and electric if you needed it. We never got the chance to sample any of his wine but were told it was also very good. We had a peaceful night there before heading off to a quiet border crossing after breakfast and arriving at the campsite at a very good time to be able to enjoy the whole day.
Being before 12 we were not able to go to the pitch, and as the camp was completely full we had no choice but to accept the pitch that they gave us but it turned out fine and just far enough away from the shore to avoid the action although because the camp is quite small so you are always near to everything anyway.
We enjoyed a lovely long weekend in the sun and crystal clear ocean. The camp was nice and small, the facilities were clean, and with a small supermarket a short walk away there was everything you needed. As we dont generally go to restaurants we cant comment but the location and outside seating certainly looked as if you would enjoy an evening meal there.
Until next week when we go on our real summer vacation.
Having the van on the driveway finally we of course decided immediately to head off. I had a very good idea of how the van worked as I had owned a similar set-up before, but we knew nothing of this particular make and model.
Tuesday evening was spent sorting out the basics, water, toilet, bedding and filling the kitchen cupboards. And whilst Leela was in work, I loaded food, clothing and our camping things and waited patiently for her to arrive home.
Then with absolutely no thought or preparation we were off at 5pm on a Wednesday evening which just happened to be also my birthday. Next thing we knew we were driving south in our new camper with pots and pans rattling behind us and bottles falling all around me. We drive through Slovenia in the slowly setting sun stopping at a roadside vendor to pick up some wonderful fresh fruit and veg. It couldn’t have been a nicer first journey.
Arriving in Croatia at dusk and with our final destination of Baška another hour or so away we decided to make the first night in the van a wild one! And we found an incredible location just under the KRK bridge at a small dock. Parking up in complete darkness we switched off the engine for the night opened the door and opened an ice cold beer from the fridge to celebrate my birthday and the beginning of our new life in the van.
Going to bed I checked the battery situation and I was surprised to see it was nearly empty. This was very strange after a four hour drive but by this time I didn’t really care and would think about it in the morning.
The following day the excitement was quite high so we were both up and awake at a ridiculous hour. The electrical situation had of course not improved but safe in the knowledge we would be going to a camp and would have a hook-up we decided to worry about it when we got home and just enjoy the weekend. So we went for a short dawn walk on the dock and some naked swimming as we watched the sun rise hitting the spectacular bridge that links the island of KRK to the mainland.
Some breakfast later and we were meandering our way down the island heading for the south most tip. Camping FKK Bunculuka was our destination and we have written much about this camp and Baška before so I will skip the details, only to say that its a really wonderful camp and location and to be finally there in the van was a dream for us.
Only having a few days to spare we packed as much as we could into this time. Running, swimming, basketball, SUP and generally just having a wonderful time in nature and also at the van. Sunday came around way too quickly and we were already packing up to leave, but we knew that now we would be able to plan and go on longer trips soon enough and would return to Bunculuka for sure through the year as this was our favourite place in Croatia to visit.
A truly wonderful first trip in our new home on wheels.
