Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Category: Countries

Tuscany

For Christmas and New Year we both had time for a longer holiday so we decided on a tour of Tuscany in Italy. Although Leela had spent a lot of time there in the past for me it was a region that I had somehow missed. I don’t quite know why as it was absolutely incredible.

The van was now ready for winter and colder travel with the last of the piping and electrical modifications completed a few days before. So after going to the Auto wash for an hour and removing the 2 inches of ice from the roof and solar panels which had built up we were ready to load up and leave the snow and freezing conditions of Austria.

As we headed out late in the afternoon of December 23rd we first had to negotiate the snowy motorway toward the Italian border. And as the temperature gauge slowly climbed above freezing we left the high mountains in the rear view and began our journey south. First past Venice in the setting sun, then Bologna, before the crazy holiday traffic built up as we approached Florence. Which was fine as this was where we were making our first stop at Lago di Bilancino. And after a quite chaotic stop in the local store we were at our destination lake side around 9pm.

Not wanting to fill the boiler water system before leaving for fear of freezing I bled the hot and cold on arrival to find a small leak in my new valve system. A panic filled 30 minutes later and all was fixed and it just turned out to be that I had not tightened the valve clips up enough.

Arriving late and leaving early did not give us a chance to explore the area but the views looked great and I am sure a nice place to visit again. But this time we had a whole lot more interesting things on our list.

San Gimignano

First was a drive to San Gimignano, a truly wonderful hill-top town famous for its four towers. After finally finding a parking place that could fit the van in such tight surroundings we spent a lovely morning exploring, drinking coffee, and enjoying delicious croissants in this idyllic town.

Then later in the afternoon we drove to our destination for Christmas which was a lovely park-up at the foot of Monteriggioni. And after a quick walk round the village which doesn’t take long as its only a couple of hundred meters wide we went for a run in the local woods before watching the sunset from our perfect vantage point.

Siena

Waking early on Christmas morning to a beautiful blue sky and crisp day we exchanged a few wonderful gifts, had a large breakfast, and then took our bikes on the 20 km ride through the back roads to Siena.

Parking the bikes directly in Piazza del Campo we had a lovely few hours exploring the town, eating the most amazing pistachio croissant, and laying in the square soaking in the Italian Christmas atmosphere in the warm sun. Hard to believe that they hold a crazy horse race here. Getting back to the van at sunset we got cleaned up and had some perfectly cooked hamburgers for our Christmas dinner.

Gladiator

Boxing day we left and drove the chianti road stopping in Radda for a walk around then in a hillside lay-by for the perfect pasta lunch with amazing views.

Back on the road south with a stop at the delightful hilltop town of Montalcino, then a stop at Russel Crowes house in Gladiator, and finally the most idyllic park-up we have ever had, smack bang in the middle of the most photographed landscape in perhaps all of Italy.

We enjoyed a perfect sunset, a quiet night, and an even more perfect sunrise. The morning light filtering through the mist that was holding to the incredible landscape with Cyprus and Pine trees lining the horizon in every direction. A landscape photographer’s dream location.

Bagni San Fillipo

After breakfast was a short drive to the first of two natural hot-springs we would visit in succession. Bagni San Fillipo is a series of hillside pools surrounded by forest. Its mostly visited by locals for its so called healing properties and flies a little under the radar. At this time of year it was very quiet and we were able to enjoy one pool just to ourselves. It was quite wet and dirty getting to the pools but once in, the water was nearly 40°C and very difficult to get out of again! After a couple of lovely hours there we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and made the drive through the countryside to our next overnight stop at Saturnia.

Saturnia

Saturnia is a spa town which has been inhabited, as most towns in this region have, since ancient times. Its most famous for its sulphurous hot-spring pools which cascade at the side of an abandoned mill. These pools hold water at around 37°C and are formed by the deposition of calcareous rock from the evaporation of the water under the gushing waterfall. Its really a spectacular sight and a joy to just lie in for much longer than is probably recommended!

The van park was quite dilapidated with very uneven access, a sanitary area that really needs an upgrade and a camper service that needed to be condemned. But it served a purpose even at a high price and as it was the only park-up within reasonable walking distance.

Arriving late in the afternoon we went immediately to the pools and were a little surprised to find it completely full. It’s an incredible natural phenomenon and still free to access so it has continuous traffic through the day. And although we enjoyed it, there were far too many people for us so we went back to the van and enjoyed a sunset meal and an early night.

The next morning we were already back at the pools before sunrise which seemed to be the perfect time for us as there were only 2 other people there for the next 60 minutes. We enjoyed a wonderful time jumping between the pools and being pounded by the waterfalls. We were already making our way back for breakfast and smelling of sulphur before the masses had even opened their eyes.

Later that morning we took the bikes out to explore the countryside on a track found on my usual app for such things. Normally these tracks are pretty accurate but this time after a lovely start on hard packed farm tracks the route we wanted to take had been locked shut. So after checking the map there seemed to be a very short work around which involved crossing a field and a river before returning to path on the other side. Easy…

This however turned out to be the most challenging couple of hours for both of us. The river crossing was fine. Indeed quite exciting as it was a run-off from the pools and thus still hot. But then we found ourselves in the most horrific wet mud that was impossible to ride over or indeed even push the bikes. Include the sound of gunfire going off all around us by the local boar hunters and this provided a torturous hour before we reached the original intended path which was less than one km away.

After getting there and the bikes now completely inoperable, we found a small stream and spent the next hour trying to clean them to a point where they would be ridable again. This felt like it took forever and by the time we reached the asphalt once more we were both pretty exhausted and very hungry. So we just made our way back on the road to the park-up, cleaned the bikes and us both the best we could with a hose pipe, and just had some lunch. The longest 13 km bike ride of my life! At sunset we went back to the pools, but once again it was too full for us so we decided just to call it a night.

The following day we went again at dawn and found ourselves completely alone there and once again were able to enjoy all the pools and waterfalls naked. We stayed for a long time before breakfast and clearing the sulphur from our bodies at the park-up showers and then were once again on the road to our destination for New Year.

Assisi

Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis the shared patron saint of Italy. The town is of high religious significance not only for Italians but to all followers around the globe. And even for two complete Atheists like ourselves it holds a lot of interest.

The hillside town really is quite the spectacle and after arriving through the valley we made our way to the quite delightful hillside campsite situated only a couple of km’s walk away. This campsite was pretty much empty when we arrived and we had the pick of the plots so we chose a perfect position with views through the trees over the valley and walked into town to explore.

Assisi really has a lot going on. From its labyrinth of tiny streets, wonderful artisan shops selling everything from exquisite jewellery, fresh foods, handmade art supplies, all the way through to every conceivable piece of tat that your average religious nut job could dream of. And after a lot of exploring, visiting the castle, and doing some photography, we eventually arrived at the church.

Now normally you wouldn’t get me within a mile of a church door but Leela being an artist and student of the Italian greats got me inside to look at the world renowned frescos. And I must say I was incredibly impressed how these masterpieces had stood the test of a 1000 years.

Putting the slavery, pain, hardship and general horrific abuse that the church/rich inflicted on the normal person to create these wonders, it was quite a marvel. The ability to create such buildings, carvings and paintings in that time and with the tools on offer is quite mind blowing. And it was a joy to see Leela appreciating these frescos from the ability and perspective of their creators.

Returning to the camp in the early evening we were greeted by a now constant flow of Italian campervans making their way in. The campsite had a limit of 50 according to their information but by late evening they were well past that number and waking up on New Year’s Eve there were vans crammed in every conceivable space which made us very nervous and claustrophobic.

So by mid morning we were out on the bikes and high on the mountainside forest roads in peace and quiet and far away from the noise and mass crowds. Knowing we would have to experience it again soon, we reluctantly made our way back, got cleaned up, and walked into town just as the sun was setting giving us a much better show than any fireworks could.

We enjoyed a glass of wine in the square as they prepared for the nights entertainment and then made our way back to the van as everyone else was making their way out. We spent New Year’s Eve in our own little world, had a few drinks and watched the fireworks from our high vantage point over the valley.

Rimini

The following morning we were up and on the road early. We had to get out of the campsite before the now packed site began to surface. There must have been over a 100 vans in there and the chaos to get out would have taken hours. So leaving the hillside morning sunshine we drove down into the valley fog not knowing that we wouldn’t see the blue sky again for the rest of our trip.

We headed east towards the coast with a first stop at Portonovo which is situated in the del Conero national park. It turned out to be a bit of a strange place. Untidy, littered, and it was made much worse by the thick fog. But we had a walk on the beach and it was nice to be at the ocean again.

The next day we drove to Rimini, but once again the thick fog spoiled the drive and the beach. So we walked around the old town which was nice and the beach front which was terrible and after an evening and following morning beach run, we continued north wishing we had gone south!

Delta del Po

Next stop was at the Delta del Po nature reserve. We stayed here last November and had a lovely time and thoroughly enjoyed the peace and nature (diary entry). We chose a different park-up this time at the end of an island and the peace in the late afternoon listening to the birds was magical, if only we could have seen them through the fog.

We were having a restful night there until around 4:30 am when a couple of cars arrived and 6 or 7 men were out in the pitch dark looking for something in the long grass all around us. This freaked us out somewhat and kept our attention until daybreak when we felt a little more at ease. That was until they started unloading their guns on whatever poor defenceless animal they were hunting. So it was time to leave this wonderful environment when we still had a full list of working parts.

Caorle

Last stop on our trip was Caorle but once more we had wished we had just stayed in Tuscany. A built up holiday town filled to the brim with people that we had spent the last 2 weeks trying our best to avoid. It was nice to see such places but they hold no interest to us. And we would never visit there in the summer months. But it was nice to take a walk on the beach at sunset and enjoy an early morning run before leaving for home.

A truly amazing Christmas and New Year trip. Tuscany is a region we would gladly re-visit and recommend to everyone. An astonishing landscape to be enjoyed by nature and photography lovers.

A happy new year to everyone and best wishes from us both for the coming years travel and adventure.

08/01/2023
Venice & Delta del Po

Austria was already retreating into winter. Late November and the cold, rain and daily fog was rolling in right on time. The locals begin to disappear into their homes and the general mood of living in this area starts to wear us down. So as it was Leela’s birthday it was a great excuse to get out of town.

It just so happened that over this weekend there was a band of very good weather in the Veneto region of Italy. And as Leela loves all things Italian, we decided to drive to Venice the night before and park up in the Camper park just outside of town again.

If you read the post on our previous trip to Venice in the summer (read diary entry here) you will know that this park is not the best. And staying there again we found that nothing had changed. In fact it had got worse as in addition to the other issues, there was now no hot water in the mens showers! But anyway… Location, location, location…

Venice

Waking early on a beautiful crisp morning we shared a coffee in bed when birthday girl opened her card and presents. Got showered in the Van! and were already on the road to Venice as the sun was rising over the city.

We went first of course for a coffee and a filled to the brim Cornetto. An absolute must to start a day in Venice. Then a long walk around town before taking a look at the hustle and bustle of the fish and groceries market. Then it was off to the church for a look around when it was still reasonably quiet. This is quite a magnificent structure which, as all of Venice is, under attack from the rising tides. And although we are both neither religions, have any faith in that respect or indeed even like the church, you still have to admire the incredible work and detail that went into its construction. Although when looking at such structures our minds and thoughts always go back to the thousands of people that were slaves and worked and died to build these masterpieces.

After the church, and as it was fast approaching lunchtime, we were on our way to find a restaurant. We had already planned her birthday lunch in advance which was to be a small ethnic place employing chefs from all over Africa and eastern Europe with dishes from every culture available.

We were recommended this place after watching Stanley Tucci’s searching for Italy TV show. We really love the series and it showcases all that is good in Italian scenery, food and culture. However nearly every place he goes to has a Michelin star or is just so exclusive and expensive that we could not even consider stepping foot inside. But this one, The Orient Experience, was just on our budget limit. So we had planned to go there as a birthday treat and see if Tucci actually knew what he was talking about!

The options are incredibly varied and we opted for the full 5 dish menu and some midday wine. The food turned out to be really very nice and such a change for us after eating the exceptionally bland food of Austria. We really miss the variety of eating options available to us where we live as they just do not embrace other cultures. And although we travel a lot to Italy and south through Croatia, these types of food or indeed any Asian options are not available unless you cook them yourself. And we thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant and food on offer and would recommend it to anyone travelling in Venice and wanting to try something different.

As we were leaving it began to fill up and the manager told us that at peak times they were now requiring reservations. But even though they have all this new exposure, they are managing to keep their prices reasonable. For now at least anyway.

After such a huge meal we needed a walk and as the sun was now shining we took a route along the seafront and sat for a while on a dockside cafe to enjoy the atmosphere and a white wine. But soon we were off again around the city. Small alley ways, back streets, boutiques and then a boat trip up the grand canal to its final stop. This was really nice as we got to see the city from a completely different perspective on the water.

As it was now already getting dark and we were getting exhausted, there was just time for a short walk to see the evening lights, a stop in the most incredible supermarket we had ever seen (architecturally speaking) for a bottle of wine and then the bus ride back to the park up. And after a short walk through the local park we were sat in our favourite home and enjoying the wine.

The following morning we took an early run in the crisp seaside air around the wonderful park that is behind the camping. They really have done a great job there stopping this prime land from being turned into business opportunities and laying out a network of running and cycle paths through the greenery together with sport facilities and cafes. A real escape from what is around it. And after a shower and breakfast we were heading south with some co-ordinates punched in the navi to a place we knew nothing about.

Delta del Po

Around an hour or so directly south of Venice there is an area called Delta del Po. Both of us have travelled extensively through Italy but for some reason this particular region had passed us by. It is a very flat wetland nature reserve with a vast amount of Islands and inland waterways, sometimes linked, sometimes not, by small roads and bridges. And as we really had no idea of what to expect or do we decided upon a park up near a sea side restaurant for the first night that that was recommended as being safe and relatively quiet.

After a chaotic drive and a stop in the most amazing of supermarkets, which just had everything you could possibly want and still at a price you could actually afford, we arrived in the nature reserve to be greeted by stormy weather and wonderful dramatic views. The car park was exactly as described and although it was now already deep into the afternoon we unloaded the bikes and set off on a round trip of this small island.

As you set off north the first thing you encounter is the giant skeleton of an old factory that is in the process of being demolished. The tall chimney visible from everywhere on the peninsula. Following a very nice farmers path brings you around to an area of woodland where masses of birds are flying in great flocks across the neighbouring wetland. And as a bonus the sun was setting lighting up the sky in a glorious pastel scene. On our return leg, we encountered a flock of sheep being herded by a Shepard and his dog back to their resting place for the evening. A really lovely ride even if in a little cold and damp weather.

Back at the van it was time to shower and cook our fresh burgers that we had picked up on the way down. Sharing a beer and catching up on how Wales had done in the World Cup soccer during the day. But that hadn’t gone any where near as good as our day had been!

The following morning we woke to a big thunderstorm all around. It was a wonderful view over the ocean with a dramatic skyline. It also helped to clear the air and opened the weather up for a beautiful couple of days ahead.

The main reason to come to this area for us was to see the birds, wildlife and especially we wanted to see the pink Flamingos that lived in the region. So we drove to the entrance of Isola Albarella and parked the van. I say entrance because this island is gated with restrictive access for residents and holidaymakers. We were unaware of such a place and was obviously a rich persons retreat complete with very nice holiday homes laid out in a manner that reminded us both very much of Florida, including a private golf course and an expansive beach area.

But what was amazing is that it was nearly completely deserted. As we cycled around we were literally the only people there and it was so strange with deer just walking the streets. Almost like you were in the film Legend. Quite strange but a very nice ride nonetheless.

Going off the island and into the wetlands we saw our first flamingos. Literally loads of them standing and feeding and being quite talkative but unfortunately a little too far away to get a good view.

After the ride we made our way to a park-up we had seen that looked very nice situated on a thin stretch of road linking 2 islands, with the ocean on one side and wetland on the other. We had a wonderful sunset and a cold, clear night with millions of stars illuminating an evening walk. Quite magical.

The next morning we woke to a cold and sunny day and as we drove out of the wetlands we were fortunate to come across a flock of Flamingo’s very close to the road feeding in the morning sun. A lovely ending to our time there.

We had one last stop to make before heading home and that was to visit Chioggia. It was quite a charming town with a Venetian layout and a bustling main square where we enjoyed a coffee and some fresh “very good” cookies which the waiter was excited to give us. We sat in the midday sun soaking up the crazy Italian Sunday atmosphere.

A completely wonderful birthday weekend and a new area of Italy that we thoroughly enjoyed exploring.

30/11/2022
Baška

It was the end of October already and we were missing the heat of summer. With a bank holiday in Austria we were choosing somewhere to go for a long weekend when I checked the weather to see a forecast for KRK in Croatia that was very exciting. Sunshine, no wind, 25°C, clear skies! Nothing to think about really.

Driving to Baška on a Wednesday evening in late October we thought would be easy but unfortunately the Slovenian roadworks cost us an extra couple of hours in tailbacks on the motorway so we were arriving on KRK island as the supermarket was closing at 9pm. A quick grab of the essentials for the weekend and we were being escorted out by the large security guard who was understandably desperate to get home and 45 minutes later and we were in Baška and it was now just past 10pm, so past our bedtime! Yes, we are early to bed people but we are also very early to rise people and enjoy the early mornings much more than the late nights.

Waking to the most incredible view being parked directly at the ocean is a joy and something we for sure do not take for granted as we had a just unbelievable park-up and the van did not move for the next 4 days!

With the forecast even better than expected we had four days of clear blue skies and temperatures of up to 28 degrees. It was summer again and we had an incredible time running along the promenade each morning in just shorts, hiking the coastal paths naked and enjoying quiet beaches, swimming in the ocean and bringing our fading suntans back to life. Something we really did not expect at this time of year. But a word of warning if your fiancé is an artist. Don’t fall asleep on the beach next to her or you wake up with watercolored painted nails.

The beaches were nearly all completely empty and I just lay in the sun all day reading and watching Leela paint and sketch and take a few dips into the fresh Croatian Ocean. The evenings were spent watching the sunsets, taking walks into town for some photography and just hanging out in the van watching the ocean only a few meters away.

A really amazing and unexpected few days away and on Sunday we were very reluctant to leave. But after another few hours on the beach and some lunch we were on our way home again. Back in Austria late in the evening it was zero degrees and we really were not happy after only 5 hours earlier we had been lying naked on a beach in 28 degrees.

Welcome to the Austrian winter for the next 4 months!

05/11/2022
Venice

Cold, rain, wind, and the heating switched back on. Yep, late autumn was here again! This time of year normally makes for a great holiday to the ocean. The children are back in school and Croatia is usually still very warm. But this year the weather, and I think the whole world, is a bit messed up. The forecast for Croatia was pretty bad but the band of weather seemed to be tracking through central Europe and to the West looked much better. So we packed up and made our way to Leela’s most favourite place, Venice.

After a long time on increasingly expensive highways through Italy we arrived at our parking for the weekend just outside the city. This place came recommended but unfortunately let us down over the weekend. Full of trash, sanitary services in bad need of repair as well as being filthy. No hot water for showers and the camper service quite unpleasant to say the least! The price did not justify the facilities but as we were just sleeping there and it was a reasonable walk to public transport, we kept quiet. Although the general disgusting mess of trash and facilities is down a long way to the people who were actually staying there also.

On Friday night we had a huge storm pass through which certainly kept us entertained whilst making the camp even more filthy but by morning it had already passed and with the forecast for sunshine after lunch we were off to catch the bus into the city.

I had been to Venice once before but a very long time ago so I had absolutely no idea of where to go or what to do but fortunately I was with my own private guide who knew the city inside out. This knowledge came from working in the Guggenheim for many years and then spending countless trips and time in the city.

First thing was to stop at her favourite cafe for a filled cornetto and coffee. This is an essential start for a day in Venice as they take their cafe’s quite seriously and it was very much enjoyed. The whole ambience of the place just oozed elegance and the choices too numerous to pick. So I just left it up to her and wolfed down a couple of hot filled croissants.

Then we were off… A full day of wondering the maze of tiny streets looking at the splendour of the vast St. Marco square and pretty much every single bridge in town. She told me that it was tradition to kiss on every bridge. But I’m not so sure that was the case and just an excuse to make out constantly through the day…

The city really is incredible. Just total and utter chaos. But somehow it seems to work and move and breath in perfect harmony with the environment, culture and history. We walked literally for hours taking in all the major attractions before stopping for a well earned wine and pizza and then enjoyed a slower afternoon in and around all the less troden back streets before buying a couple of cans of Sardinian lager and sitting on her favourite quiet dock of the Grand Canal to watch the sun set. After a short walk back to central station we were back on the bus after dark to our trash scattered camp site!

The next day we were up and out before any of the tourists and already in town as the waitress was taking the fresh and hot pastries out of the oven. A couple of coffees later and we were walking through the empty streets and getting ready for a full day at the Bienalle. An art exhibition and installation that runs every two years and attracts the worlds best artists and a whole lot of extra visitors to the city.

First was the historic Pavilions at the Giardini. A collection of buildings each hosting an artists installation from a specific country. From Brazil to Russia, everyone was there. Except Wales of course and now you mention it, Russia wasn’t given a spot either in view of what was going on.

For me it was interesting. I had no real idea of what to look for but just enjoyed the things that made me happy. Some were downright awful and made no sense as well as looking like a 5 year old had been let loose with some lego. And the less said about the so called British (English) entry the better. Just the noise of some warbling bint in a room of no presence.Anyway I was quite taken by the Korean (south) entry and especially liked the French’s take on old cinematography which probably ranked first in my eyes. The Austrian installation was downright disastrous and only just finishing one step above England at the bottom of the pile. Both being beaten by the empty house of Russia.

This tour took us well toward midday and we decided on a liquid lunch of what seemed to be the favoured drink of the city and one I had never had before, an Aperole Spritz. I would love to say I enjoyed it as much as Leela but it was too sweet for me. Nevertheless it was quite enjoyable in our current surroundings.

Heading toward the main hall to the exhibition entitled “The Milk of Dreams” we were not quite sure of what to expect. It turned out to be pretty much a 90 minute horror show. Lots of death, destruction, dismembered bodies and torture. Not exactly what I had hoped for my first ‘art’ experience. Even Leela was a little put off by some of the works. But we soldiered through and were both delighted by a few pieces that were intermingled amongst the horror.

It was now definitely time to set out for some lunch before heading to the venue for the afternoon at the second part of the exhibition held at the Arsenale.

This is a really impressive old dock yard where many of the huge ships were built through the years. Now the buildings have been renovated and are home to some very large installations. After roaming through each of these for a long time, except for Venices own entry as the queue was ridiculous, we saw a lot of art that was certainly quite subjective, and a lot where the majesty of the building well out shadowed what was placed in it. But there were a few lovely pieces and works and as we were now getting pretty worn out we decided it was time to give our eyes, and my brain, a rest and head to the shoreline for some fresh air. Stopping for a couple of cans of our new favourite Sardinian beer we perched ourselves on a bench and watched the most incredible sunset over the Venetian rooftops and towers. Quite a beautiful end to the day.

At dusk we made our way through the quiet backstreets and back to the bus station for our packed bus ride back to the camp. The end to a perfect and very memorable weekend in Venice. Who knew it was such a beautiful city!

24/09/2022
A night under the stars

Summer has passed by in a blur, it’s now September and already it feels like Autumn has its firm hand upon my shoulder. But before it completely disappeared I did manage to have a beautiful night enjoying the magic of the outdoors.

The new and hip term for it these days among men who have groomed beards, spend their weeks in suits and weekends in expensive outdoor gear is ‘Micro Adventure’ I believe. I just call it a night in the hills…

Spending the night in the mountains is quite daunting for some and I can understand this as I recall my first ever evening in the wild. A very young man, alone on a Welsh hillside, lying awake all night listening to every single noise and wondering when I was going to be hacked to death by some lunatic ice axe wielding mountaineer or worse still savaged by an out of control rabid Welsh Sheep.

The truth though is that its one of the most rewarding and fantastic ‘free’ experiences that you can have. You don’t have to do it alone, go with a friend or in a group. If you pick your location wisely and are confident with the weather then you don’t need too much expensive gear or expert knowledge, just make sure that you think it through and then enjoy it for what it is.

Late one hot afternoon I drove with the car to the Eisenkappler Hutte, which sits on the south slope of the Hochobir, enjoyed an ice cold Beer, and then made my way along the testing path for around 90 minutes to the summit at 2142m.

The Hochobir is a really beautiful mountain with views all through southern Carinthia. The weather was immaculate with 25 degrees for the late afternoon hike and after passing everyone making their way down the mountain, I found myself alone on the summit.

Setting up camp didn’t take long as I just had a tarp, thermal mat and sleeping bag to lay on the ground and then I could sit back and enjoy the majestic summers evening and the solitude of the mountain.

As the sun and the temperature slowly faded, I dived into my sleeping bag and watched the sky change through a myriad of colours before the Milky Way finally made its appearance. The night sky was just so unbelievably amazing that I found myself trying to stay awake all through the night to gaze at the colours across the horizon line and the incredible clarity of the stars from this high altitude vantage point.

The night went by way too fast but soon I had the excitement of waiting for the sunrise… For this the silence and solitude on the mountain was broken by some early hikers making their way to the summit who had made the effort to experience it from this viewpoint.

Packing up my gear after the sun was already blazing its way through the sky, I made my way back down in time for the first coffee at the hut and I was able to sit in the early morning sun and think about this amazing night under the stars. Sitting there I realised something that has been nagging me all year. Stop looking for excuses. Just go out and do it.

Happy adventures. Ryan

02/09/2022
FKK Camping Koversada

Holidays in high season… chaos, noise, kids! This is normally every single thing that we try to avoid but this summer it worked out that we were both off for a full two weeks with a summer break so we decided to give it a try!

Wanting to go somewhere different and as everything was already booked up we chose to go back to Istria but this time to a huge campsite which again we never normally do.

We decided on Koversada FKK resort near Vsar. It had decent reviews and the location seemed perfect for our plans. Active options for cycling, running and SUP together with a lot of bathing opportunities and blue flag beaches. Many good reviews on the Facebook group but worryingly many bad also. Some minor theft which we fortunately did not experience but the main concern being men hanging around taking video and photographs and groups of young men staying there but not naturist. unfortunately all of these we did experience.

Making our way down south from Austria late on a Wednesday evening we encountered no traffic and we decided to stay overnight once more at Roberto’s. A wonderful spot which you can read more about on our last post – FKK Kanegra. Leaving early enough for a quick passage through the border we made our way toward Vsar when we saw a Mcdonalds and quickly decided that a Croatian sausage and egg McMuffin with a coffee would go down very nicely and after polishing off double helpings we were on the road to Koversada.

The reception was quite small considering the camp size and as we had already booked in on-line the process was quick and easy. They had given us a pre-booked pitch but as there were many pitches available we decided to take a look around and after a very sweaty and long walk we decided just to take the one they gave us. Partly because it was quite close to the ocean and the neighbours seemed nice, but mostly because we couldn’t be arsed to look anymore! Number 2004.

We are not new to this and I honestly thought that we could cope with the pitch having no shade. But after a couple of hours there and realising that our 2 quiet female German neighbours had now increased to 8 very loud and very drunk adults, 2 dogs, and a screaming kid. We decided to move on. So off on the bikes to look for a quiet pitch.

We found 2 shady and quiet pitches. Numbers 802 preferred and 717 second choice. So back to reception to ask and she said that 802 would be free for our whole stay. Pack up everything in 40 degrees, drive to new pitch, unpack everything and set-up awning and all the paraphernalia for a 2 week stay. And one incredibly sweaty hour later and as I was hammering in the final peg. Leela says… whats the number of this pitch Ry? Everything sank. I didn’t even bother to look as I knew I had fucked up. I had only driven to pitch 717 by accident.

Pack up everything in 40 degrees, drive to new pitch, unpack everything and set-up awning and all the paraphernalia. And one incredibly sweaty hour later and as I was hammering in the final peg. Leela hands me an ice cold beer!

We had planned to be there early and set-up by 10:00 am so we could have enjoyed the full day. Instead it was now nearly 5pm and I was exhausted. We had set-up and taken down our pitch 3 times in very hot temperatures but finally we had a cold beer and could laugh at my complete arse-up of a day.

The next day we could start our holiday for real. Checking out the vastness of the campsite, finding the best bakery for morning Bureks, swimming in the clear ocean and general relaxing at the van.

As a note, I had broken a bone in my foot a week before the trip and my movement was quite limited so our active holiday was much more sedate than we would have liked but we tried to make the most of it. Running was not possible for me but Leela ran every morning when I got breakfast together. Returning each day with info about the local area, the best fish markets and the general comings and goings of the campsite.

Of our activities I did manage a couple of bike rides. The first was exploring the forests to the head of the Lim Canal. The dock area turned out to be very nice although a little run-down after seeing better years but a lovely beer in the sun nonetheless. The ride home was superb through the forest in the evening setting sun only stopping to do a little route finding.

The second bike trip was up the coast to Porec. We had hoped that there would be a series of bike paths running along the coastline to enjoy but it turned into an episode of wacky races. Just jumping from path to road trying not to be run over in the process. Porec turned out to be very busy. Too many people and not enough space to host them all. Of course we were not helping by being there either.

So after a stressful ride around the town we found a bakery and sat on a park bench in the shade watching a completely different world to ours go about their business. The ride back was a little calmer as we found some off-road paths that were away from the traffic but we were glad to be once more sitting at the van.

The only other bike tour, apart from riding around the campsite, was a short ride to Vsar which was a lovely little dock village. It was of course overrun but I think quite charming out of season.

We both love stand-up paddling but this proved to be a little more problematic for my foot due to the roughness of the water from the constant boat traffic. But we did manage one long trip quite far up the Canal which is recommended and also a shorter trip around the camp island which was also very nice apart from the roughness of the water.

All together it was a very nice couple of weeks there but something we would not do again in high season. It’s really just not for us. There are options for cycling, running and SUP and of course the ocean is there. But we did not swim mainly because of the amount of jelly fish there were in the water. Something we had not experienced before whilst travelling through Croatia. And unfortunately there were many more bad sides to this campsite in high season.

The utter disrespect that some people have for others never ceases to amaze us. The cleaners on the site are working 10 hours a day in 40 degree heat and for pittance, just so that people can leave the showers and toilets in such a disgusting and filthy way.

This site being so large had quite a cross section of humanity on it. We are naturists, we visit many naturist campsites, beaches and lakes, we are middle-aged and not naive. We are both in a body condition that is not the normal for such places so we tend to attract attention wherever we go. We don’t like it, it’s just the way it is. But we tend to ignore everything that goes on around us.

But many of the people on this campsite were not naturist. They were people who just want to expose themselves to others in a legal environment. I can only talk of the men who are the worst but Leela says that the women were no better, just more discrete.

The looks and staring whilst touching themselves, although horrible, can just be ignored but when repulsive men comment on Leela’s body whilst standing right in front of her and with me there also, just shows how disgusting some men are with their treatment of women as objects.

I really wish that this was an isolated incident but on at least 3 occasions with me there and once when she was alone and on that occasion she told him exactly what she thought of him but this just fuelled his fire and gave him even more repulsive energy whilst taking ours from us.

And I wish it was just us it was happening to but even on the Koversada facebook page there were mentions of men hanging around taking photos and video.

I will dedicate a post to this subject and discuss the differences between the internet perception of naturism laid to you by Instagram and people like Naked Wanderings, British Naturism, etc. who are ignoring the problem and really not talking about the real state of Naturism that would take away from their personal gain. But it exists and it’s not going away.

Anyway with all this negativity about humans we did have a pretty nice time there. We cannot comment about any restaurants as we did not want to eat out and socialise after everything that was happening during the day. But we had a lovely take out pizza from the site. We had an amazing freshly caught Sea Brine from the local fish market that we cooked ourselves and we enjoyed many wonderful sunsets as well as an incredible moon one evening. We will avoid these giant camps from now on in high season and stick to our preferred type of Naturist locations.

Happy Naturist travels everyone, and be careful out there.

21/08/2022
FKK Camping Kanegra

We had planned for this long weekend a tour of Carinthia utilising our Kärnten cards with lots chair lifts and hiking. This trip I had been planning for quite some time and we were really looking forward to it. But life is unpredictable and 2 days before I had very innocuously caught the outside of my foot on the leg of a chair in the house and as it turned out, broken my foot.

So hiking was not an option and whilst we were loading the van on Friday afternoon we still had no idea. But now our focus had changed from the mountains to the ocean. We knew that everything would be fully booked as we were just entering august so after an online search for the nearest FKK camp that had a free place we were given the option of camp Kanegra, which was only a few km’s over the border from Slovenia near the town of Umag. We both knew nothing of this place and after changing our kit choice in the van from mountains to ocean which is a whole lot easier as we need no clothes, we were off once more.

Not wanting to drive over the mountain passes with my foot we decided for a change to take the freeway via the Karawanken tunnel. And apart from the Toll, it was a much more relaxing drive than through the mountains.

On the way down and as it was already getting into late afternoon Leela was searching for a park-up for the evening near the border so that we could drive to the camp early next morning. She came up with Roberto’s near the border and in one of the Slovenian wine regions.

We arrived quite late and took the last parking place that was available just in time to watch a glorious sunset over the vineyards with the ocean in the distance. The park spot was great at 10€ and there was a toilet, cold shower and electric if you needed it. We never got the chance to sample any of his wine but were told it was also very good. We had a peaceful night there before heading off to a quiet border crossing after breakfast and arriving at the campsite at a very good time to be able to enjoy the whole day.

Being before 12 we were not able to go to the pitch, and as the camp was completely full we had no choice but to accept the pitch that they gave us but it turned out fine and just far enough away from the shore to avoid the action although because the camp is quite small so you are always near to everything anyway.

We enjoyed a lovely long weekend in the sun and crystal clear ocean. The camp was nice and small, the facilities were clean, and with a small supermarket a short walk away there was everything you needed. As we dont generally go to restaurants we cant comment but the location and outside seating certainly looked as if you would enjoy an evening meal there.

Until next week when we go on our real summer vacation.

04/08/2022
FKK Camping Bunculuka – and a new camper

Having the van on the driveway finally we of course decided immediately to head off. I had a very good idea of how the van worked as I had owned a similar set-up before, but we knew nothing of this particular make and model.

Tuesday evening was spent sorting out the basics, water, toilet, bedding and filling the kitchen cupboards. And whilst Leela was in work, I loaded food, clothing and our camping things and waited patiently for her to arrive home.

Then with absolutely no thought or preparation we were off at 5pm on a Wednesday evening which just happened to be also my birthday. Next thing we knew we were driving south in our new camper with pots and pans rattling behind us and bottles falling all around me. We drive through Slovenia in the slowly setting sun stopping at a roadside vendor to pick up some wonderful fresh fruit and veg. It couldn’t have been a nicer first journey.

Arriving in Croatia at dusk and with our final destination of Baška another hour or so away we decided to make the first night in the van a wild one! And we found an incredible location just under the KRK bridge at a small dock. Parking up in complete darkness we switched off the engine for the night opened the door and opened an ice cold beer from the fridge to celebrate my birthday and the beginning of our new life in the van.

Going to bed I checked the battery situation and I was surprised to see it was nearly empty. This was very strange after a four hour drive but by this time I didn’t really care and would think about it in the morning.

The following day the excitement was quite high so we were both up and awake at a ridiculous hour. The electrical situation had of course not improved but safe in the knowledge we would be going to a camp and would have a hook-up we decided to worry about it when we got home and just enjoy the weekend. So we went for a short dawn walk on the dock and some naked swimming as we watched the sun rise hitting the spectacular bridge that links the island of KRK to the mainland.

Some breakfast later and we were meandering our way down the island heading for the south most tip. Camping FKK Bunculuka was our destination and we have written much about this camp and Baška before so I will skip the details, only to say that its a really wonderful camp and location and to be finally there in the van was a dream for us.

Only having a few days to spare we packed as much as we could into this time. Running, swimming, basketball, SUP and generally just having a wonderful time in nature and also at the van. Sunday came around way too quickly and we were already packing up to leave, but we knew that now we would be able to plan and go on longer trips soon enough and would return to Bunculuka for sure through the year as this was our favourite place in Croatia to visit.

A truly wonderful first trip in our new home on wheels.

05/07/2022
FKK Camping Konobe

With our campervan delivery still nowhere near in sight we couldn’t wait any longer so we were off to the ocean in Croatia for a long weekend and had booked a few days at FKK camp Konobe near Punat on KRK. We both really love this campsite because of its bohemian atmosphere and its unkempt state where it’s quite run down but in a way that we both enjoy and can appreciate.

We were quite surprised therefore on arrival to find that the camp had been cleaned up quite a lot since our last visit and even more surprised about the hike in prices which we were not expecting.

The shanti town of resident campers had been banned and replaced by levelled motorhome pitches all numbered and laid out where it used to be a free for all. The small restaurant had been cleaned up with some new flooring but unfortunately not new staff and there was even a lick of paint on the rusting street lights.

All this we found out later was a push by Falkensteiner who are the new owners and if rumours are correct the campsite is due to transition slowly from FKK to textile over the next years. Which for us will for sure mean that we will never go there again. But for now it was still a naturist site, the paths were still broken, the beach chairs a deathtrap, and the showers still didn’t work properly after about 15 years of visiting there.

We took a rented caravan this time even though we both knew it would be filthy when we arrived from previous experience and visits. And even though there is now a whopping €60 compulsory additional cleaning fee, they are still never cleaned. But you can just about accept this if you are able to take the one direct at the ocean as the location is incredible.

After spending an hour disinfecting the van we were having a lovely first day at the ocean. The sun was shining, we had been for a morning run and seen dolphins playing and we were beginning to get our bodies looking tanned and healthy once more.

The Saturday was spent much the same way including a walk along the shoreline of the campsite and taking the rocky path that leads to an abandoned lighthouse about 2 km away. At the lighthouse there is a small dock where the supplies would have been delivered by boat. This really is a nice walk with wonderful views and an interesting landscape and building for some great photos. You can also take the SUP boards there along the jagged coast but we did not have them with us this time. So we just enjoyed jumping and diving off the dock instead.

Making our way back to the campsite we stopped in the camp shop to pick up a bottle of cheap fizz and whilst it was chilling in the fridge for later we opened an already cold beer and enjoyed the moment. Later in the afternoon we had some dinner and took our chairs to the waterfront and opened our bottle and watched the sun setting on an unforgettable day in our lives.

The next two days were spent just enjoying the freedom of the environment we were in. There is also a coastline path north of the campsite which leads to Punat which is a nice town and seafront to visit. You can walk most of the way naked but dress when it reaches the boardwalk.

Sun, sea, swims, runs, walks and drinks which was perfect for us. A memorable few days that will stay with us for the rest of our lives.

23/05/2022
Feuerberg Mountain Resort

Middle of December, freezing cold, snow, ice and constant fog. Lockdown and restrictions putting a stop to any thought of travel. General feeling of emptiness and impending world doom in the air… Then Saviour!

Leela was still holding in her possession a 2 year old, Covid induced forgetfulness voucher for the Feuerberg resort. And with Hotel restrictions being lifted on 17th December she amazingly was able to book a room and a 2 night stay with the voucher for the opening day in what they call their most basic single room.

Let me just start by saying nothing is basic in this place. It’s one of the most sought after destinations in the whole of Austria. Booked years in advance by wealthy travellers from around Europe and a single (cheap) room will set you back a cool €200 per night, per person. And thats if you can even get one in the first place.

The Hotel is located at 1700 m on the Gerlizen Alp in Southern Austria. The road to it is difficult especially if it has snowed recently but we were fortunate that it had been cleaned and we did not need the snow chains.

Arriving in the first hours of it re-opening after lockdown was always going to be a little chaotic but they are so well drilled and smooth that only the other impatient guests were the problem.

Going to our room and worrying that the “basic” option may be a little cramped was not worth the energy as even their most basic room was very large. Nice bed, WC, separate bathroom and enough space for all our unnecessary packing. Ok there was not the view which the South facing rooms and suites command but it was also half the price.

Our initial pre-plan of being on the mountain hiking and snowshoeing went straight out the window when we arrived in the car park. And by midday we were already in our complementary bathrobes and wondering around the majestic spa area. Both of us are very fit and active people but we are also both very capable of doing absolutely nothing. And nothing we did for the best part of 3 days.

This place is famous for its food but also for the spa. I have been to quite a few in my time all over Europe, but this one is just phenomenal. Not just because of the location which cant be beat, but also for the diversity and sheer quality. There is literally something for everyone in there.

After getting over the overwhelmingness of the first couple of hours we finally found our way around the complexity of walkways, pools, family, clothed/non-clothed options and found what worked for us. We settled on hanging around the glorious infinity pool and then making forays to the various saunas, cold dip pools and hot pools feeding from this area. Always returning to the pool and enjoying the incredible views.

We were so lucky with the weather the whole time we were there. Snow and freezing cold temperatures with clear skies and views in all directions. And best of all as the other guests were there to ski. A notion that just baffled us as why would you spend so much money on this facility and then go away from it all day. We found that we had the spa virtually to ourselves each day until after the lifts closed and the masses returned around 5pm. Which was then time to go and get ready for dinner anyway which is a complete other story.

Coming from my background I didn’t spend time in any hotels where you didn’t stick to the carpet on entry. So this place was way out of my league. Being shown to our table and walking past the buffet which would have fed a third world country on its own, I had to take a lesson in which knife, fork and spoon to use for each course. Where I come from there is just one of each and you use them for whatever you’re eating.

In total honesty the evening meal was too posh for me with foods that I did not know existed or could not pronounce. But I really enjoyed the experience and there was nothing left on my plate after any sitting, even if I didn’t fully know exactly what I was eating. After dinner we sat in the wonderful bar area and enjoyed a superb gin and tonic whilst listening to a man trying to entertain and sing who was a cross between a really bad piano playing Billy Joel and an overenthusiastic Hoff. But nevertheless he was enjoying and so were we.

Waking early next morning after a wonderful sleep in a very comfortable bed we were nearly the first to breakfast. Where once again we were completely overwhelmed by the choice of food on offer and we just wanted to try everything. Omelettes, bacon, sausage, fruits, yogurts and exquisite coffees, all finished off with waffles and syrup. It was a workout in itself just to survive. And all the while looking out at the stunning morning sunrise views which were brought to an abrupt halt.

We were really enjoying every moment, every taste, every sense of this incredible experience and then we looked at the people that were now surrounding us. 3 tables, one family, 2 couples, mixed countries. The first thing we noticed was that they were all sitting facing away from the incredible view. Next they requested that the blinds were closed so that the morning sun did not bother them. But the most unfathomable thing was what they were eating.

Now you have to bear in mind that this was the first day the hotel was open after a long lockdown. They had paid between 200-500 Euro per person per night for this experience. And they all wanted to sit in a dark room, be on their mobile phones and eat… well this was incredible… Dry Semmel with sliced cheese and ham… And that was it. Quite unbelievable to us with the choice of organic fresh breads and locally farmed cheeses and yogurts on offer. Not to mention the fresh fruits, juices and warm products being freshly made to your every request. So we laughed together and enjoyed finishing an exotic spread whilst peering at the dawn through the slats in the blinds.

Feeling quite lethargic after breakfast we decided to sit outside and watch the dawn rise to day and on the way through the lounge to the terrace we found another coffee machine where we took two cups and noticed a bottle on the shelf that said Whiskey. After I confirmed that this was actual alcohol we fully loaded our cups and sat under thermal blankets enjoying the beauty of our surroundings whilst knocking back a few shots of coffee. And it was not even 9am!

Dressing for dinner and breakfast was enough for us, so immediately getting back to being naked we were off once again for another incredible day of relaxing, swimming and sauna. Only broken up by intermittent naps and some visits to the pick-n-mix table which had an exotic choice of nuts and fruits and really great juices. The day followed the previous and the evening meal was just as incredible as the nights before.

After Another wonderful night’s sleep, another incredible breakfast, and a whiskey on the terrace, we stayed in the spa until the latest 4pm check-out and sadly made our way home.

Two nights was most definitely enough for us as I don’t think we could have eaten like that for another day. But what a two night break it was. One of the most amazing experiences of our lives and we lived every single moment of it whilst there.

Thank you to the wealthy ex-boss of Leela for giving us this opportunity to experience something we would otherwise never have.

31/12/2021