This year is not going quite as planned. But hopefully with the summer here and with another operation safely behind me, I am back on track and we are making alternative plans.
A few weeks ago we managed 4 days at Valata resort in Istria (diary entry) and as we have already written an extensive post on how great this place is there is no need to go into detail again. Except to say that the facilities are now even better as they have upgraded some sanitary blocks and re-developed one of the beaches which is very nice.
Unfortunately their prices are still continuing to rise and in moderate season you will be expected to pay upward of €70 for a pitch. Let me say that again. Thats over €70 per night to park on a parcel of dirt. And thats if you can actually find one thats worth parking on without having your neighbours sitting on your breakfast table or having to take your hiking boots with you to get to the beach.
Also the supermarket prices have risen and an hour of tennis is now a quite remarkable €17! So they have effectively priced us out of going there except at the end of April or the last week of September, and then only for a few days. For us thats quite sad as we would love to spend an extended trip there to truly enjoy the facilities and area.
Its quite unbelievable how prices are rising in Croatia, and Europe in general, all caused by covid and the new van life boom. The ACSI card is no longer worth having as the “off-season” times are being constantly made shorter, and the pitches that are being made available for card holders are getting worse and worse.
We also took a trip to naturist campsite Mali Raj in Slovenia. Again we have written about this lovely camp beforebut also in March I made an interview article for British Naturism magazine in the UK of which I am also a member as well as the INF in Austria. It is published in the June Summer issue if you are a member, and if not you can download our article below.
Our plans for this year may have been forced to change but we are still positive and hopeful that we will be back to the second part of our trip to France and Spain later in the year. So stay tuned and any comments on our posts are always welcome.
Leaving Paris we had a nightmare with the Sat-Nav. In all fairness it was the first time in a month it completely let us down and we spent a frustrating hour or so just getting to the outskirts of the City. But once we had changed a few settings that had mysteriously reset themselves we were back on track and driving through beautiful French countryside.
We stayed for a few days just outside Orleans where I managed to fix a few things in the van, repair the break in attempt, make a new shelf, and repair the bathroom door! We also found some new sport/hiking shoes for Leela as I had managed to leave them behind. We took some walks as well as a wonderful day out on the bikes to Château de Chambord along the Loire.
Driving on wonderful roads towards Limoges we pulled off to visit the WW2 War memorial at Oradour-sur-Glane where the camper aire was closed for repair so we continued to the next village to spend the night.
Returning the next morning we were the first people into the memorial which was in itself quit a sombre experience. It really is a horrific story and tragic to think that this could have taken place and also how such events are still happening today. Nevertheless a worthy tribute to those who perished unnecessarily.
Having some beautiful Croissants and a coffee cheered us up somewhat and we were back in the van and heading south for the Caves of Lascaux. We wanted to visit here for Leela to see the caves and the beginning of Art in our world but after getting there and speaking to reception we were put off spending a lot of money. There was only one English tour a day, too much tacky props, and in the end it was to see what was only a replica of the original anyway!
So after some thought Leela decided that she would learn enough from art books and we took the bikes out instead for a great tour around the local historic countryside and after a shower made our way west toward Bordeaux and the ocean.
The following morning we drove around Bordeaux and on to Cap Ferret staying in a really beautiful free municipal aire only a few hundred meters from the incredible beach of Grand Crohot. We were so excited to be at the ocean again and in the first warm weather of our trip so we left the van, packed a baguette, and headed straight out for the day.
The photos of this area did not disappoint and after getting on the beach we headed north for a few km walking the expansive beach with amazing soft sand and surrounded by dunes as far as you could see in both directions. Finding a nice spot out of the wind on the naturist beach Plage de la Jenny we settled down and just enjoyed this incredible environment for the rest of the day. Eating our packed lunch, Leela done some yoga, and I went for a dip in the still very cold Atlantic ocean.
Walking back late in the day we showered at the van and wanted to head back to the beach for sunset but as we were both quite tired from the fresh ocean air and from walking over 10km on soft sand we just had some wine and called it a night!
The next day we were fresh and up early for a long run along the coast before breakfast and spent the day the same as the last on the beach. But as later in the afternoon the weather was turning a little we walked even further down the coastline before returning to the van.
After another quiet night we decided as the weather was getting colder again to move on to Bordeaux. We stayed a couple of nights at the Village camping just outside the city and rode the bikes into the centre for a look around. It was quite a charming place and if the weather were a little better would have been nice to hang around but with heavy rain forecast we made our way back along the Dordogne and back to the camp.
We had planned at least another week in the area before we had to return home but as the weather forecast was absolutely terrible and our plans only included lying on the beach we decided to make our way back across the country and home a little earlier for springtime in Austria. After all it was only a few months before we would be heading out again!
Returning to Europe we decided as the winds were so high and the channel forecast was rough to say the least, that we would pay the extra and take the tunnel for the first time ever. It was really expensive at double the cost but we were very impressed with the ease of boarding and how quick it was without any of the stress of travelling by ferry. And as we were very early there they allowed us free of extra charge to board the next train. And before we had time to clean the van we were already in France!
Stopping for a failed attempt to fill the LPG put us back a little and as it had been a long day we decided to pull off the Motorway and find a quiet park-up after about an hour heading south. The following morning we were on the road early and entering the outskirts of Paris at late morning. Driving in the city was crazy but after an hour or so we were at Paris City Camp and having some lunch and a shower before heading out in search of the city.
Our first attempt at leaving the site was thwarted by a storm of large proportions which drowned us only a few hundred meters from the van and sent us scurrying back for a coffee and shelter. But after a short wait we were off again for the walk through the Parc du Bois and on to the Avenue Foch which led straight to the Arc de Triomphe.
An impressive sight we stayed a short while before walking the Champs Élysées before reaching the Place de la Concorde and then on to the Pyramide du Louvre. The weather was being kind so we continued on to the Notre Dame Cathedral before heading through the back streets of the colourful Latin Quarter, Pantheon and finally to the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel. Stopping on the way for a bottle of French white wine and taking a couple of Espresso cups from Starbucks to drink it from!
Reaching the park we took a seat with a view and enjoyed our wine as dusk came watching with amazement as the tower lit up in stages before it was completely dark and this incredible structure stood magnificent with all its dress lights. Reluctantly leaving as it was getting cold and we had also run out of wine, we headed for the bridge north and to our bus stop for the ride home which was pretty smooth, getting back to the van as the rain began to get quite heavy again.
Unfortunately opening the sliding door of the van the following morning I noticed that the window on the passenger side corner was moving. After looking more closely I could see that the plastic closures had been snapped off and it was fully open, so some toe-rag had tried to break in to the van and broke the window. Thinking back this must have happened in Wales and probably when it was parked outside my moms house as at no other time since, had we left the van alone until we got to Paris. And also that was the only time the alarm went off in the middle of the night!
Its unfortunate that there are still so many Scumbags in the world that think its ok to steal or just vandalise anything they wish and the thought of someone trying to break in to the van was even worse. But it is fortunate that the alarm must have done its job and the only damage was relatively easy to repair even if it did cost us €75 a little further down the road…
With tired legs and an excellent weather forecast we were off early and on the bus this time directly to the to Arc de Triomphe. Heading North it was first to Parc Monceau, the Moulin Rouge, the street markets and the Sacré Coeur, stopping for a break on the steps overlooking the giant cityscape. Back on our feet and we were off to the artists hangout of Place du Tertre before descending the labyrinth of tiny streets among the markets, boulangeries, fromageries, and so many wine shops and sellers it was hard to resist, before finally getting back to the river at the Notre Dame for our next break.
The last leg of the day was heading south through all the busy Saturday streets full of restaurants a quick stop for some Belgian Fries before skirting the Pantheon a stop in a supermarket for a bottle of wine a fresh Baguette and a ring of camembert before heading to the Eiffel Tower once more to sit just before sunset and enjoy our very French take-out with a spectacular view!
The park was much busier on a Saturday evening with many people enjoying the same as us but a little more extravagantly. We saw full cheeseboards, wine, champagne, baguettes and a whole host of wonderful looking picnics going on.
We watched the lights coming on once more to give us the most incredible scene of Paris before heading home which unfortunately took a lot longer this night as there was an evening sport event going on with road closures so our direct bus service was not running. Eventually returning back to the van very tired and with another 30km in the legs from a second great day.
The last day of our Paris tour was with heavy rain forecast all morning so we had booked entry to the Louvre for 12am and after a slow morning we made our way by bus and train directly there and even though we had booked, we still had to queue in the pouring rain for 45 minutes before we were left in. I had never been there before so I was unprepared for the sensory onslaught of thousands of people all shuffling at snails pace, most with no idea of the magnificence that was all around them, and with only one goal of having a selfie taken in front of the Mona Lisa.
This place was really incredible and words cannot do justice to the artistry, intelligence, and skill that had gone in to everything on show, even if most of the artists lived in complete poverty and had no recognition during their lifetime for completing pieces that are quite magnificent.
At any one time there are over 35 thousand works of art on show and just to give only a few minutes that they deserve would have taken months. So as Leela knew what we should use our short time for, we focused on certain pieces that she wanted to appreciate and like all the rest, just shuttled past some works of genius only giving them a slight glance of acknowledgement.
We looked at Rembrandt, Monet, Turner, Botticelli, and of course me being the complete philistine that I am, had to take a look at Da Vinci’s Moaning Lisa just to see the complete zoo, when the real incredible work of art was directly on the opposite wall which all the crowds had their backs to!
As the hours went by my focus was waning and I was becoming a little irritable and tired of all the crowds and unfortunately the works of art were just becoming one continuous blur, so we decided to call it a day after 6 hours.
We walked back along the Champs Élysées and took the train and bus back to the camp before a glass of wine and collapsing into bed. Calling it a night on our amazing Paris experience.
It’s been a long time in the making and it seems even a longer last few months of waiting but the time was finally upon us to get underway. Our 2024 travel has been in the planning for nearly three years yet at the last minute we still seemed to have too much to organise. But at 5:15pm on Friday March 1st, St. Davids day for those who are in the know, we locked the apartment door, climbed into our van that had been waiting patiently through the last 5 months of Winter in Austria, and set out for the first leg of our two planned trips this year.
First stop after a few hours was a gas station north of Salzburg, not too glamorous a start, then a tortuous drive north through very bad weather to the border with France. And finally after a calm ferry crossing and another 5 hours drive we were at my mothers home in South Wales.
We stayed with her for a few days for her to get to know Leela a little as it was the first time they had met. I spent some time cleaning and fixing things around the house and we took a few runs in the rain around my old village and area that I grew up. As well as a cider in the local bar where I was still sticking to the same carpets 20 years later.
Leaving for our small tour of wales on the first dry day of our stay, we first headed into the Brecon Beacons and hiked to Llyn-y-fan Fawr lake. This remote and difficult to navigate hike was my favourite spot in the Beacons and maybe even the whole of Wales. We were very lucky as the weather held for us and we could enjoy the beautiful surroundings and actually see the lake which is not often the case!
After a quick bite to eat we set off to Dinas Rock and had a wonderful afternoon walking the waterfalls of the Neath valley. The highlight being able to walk behind Swyd-y-Eira waterfall when it was in full flow. We were soaked through but it was worth it!
After a quiet night in Dinas Rock we headed through Penderyn, where the Welsh whiskey comes from, to the storey Arms at the foot of Pen-y-fan, the highest mountain in South Wales. The weather was absolutely ridiculous with winds knocking us of our feet but we headed out and made it to the summit. We didn’t hang around for fear of being blown off it and also we couldn’t see a thing so we returned to the van to warm up and have a coffee. Then a quick stop and walk around Brecon town before heading to Nant-yr-Arian mountain bike area as we had hoped to bike the following day.
We had a beautiful park-up but unfortunately the wind threatened to tip the van over. So after no sleep and no chance of biking we headed North, by-passing a few days of plans, straight to Beddgelert.
Staying at the old forestry Commission campsite was really disappointing. I had used this camp in Snowdonia my whole life and it was amazingly natural and cheap. But with the new camper and instagram boom it has been taken over by a private company and was now only for the rich weekend warrior. So after apologising to Leela for building it up so much we headed out at lunchtime to try and climb Snowdon via Rhyd Ddu. But the wind and bad weather were hounding us and we had to turn back to the campsite.
Leaving early the next day we headed toward Anglesey as there was a dry and bright day forecast there even though the wind was still not letting up. First stop was Caernarfon Castle and town which was lovely then across the Menai bridge to:
Stopping at the train station of the longest town name in Europe and second in the world, we then headed to Holyhead south stacks for a lovely afternoon walking the coastline.
As the weather, and especially the wind was too bad to stay there, we returned to the mainland and a lovely location just below Caernarfon and directly at the sea. We had some dinner and settled in for the night but at 1:00am the wind was battering the van so badly we had to move a few km down the Coast to a more sheltered location. Waking to a moderately calm day we went for a very breezy coastal run and as the rain came in we settled in for a day in the van with some TV and computer planning!
The following days forecast was for dry weather and manageable winds, the only one in the next 7 days forecast, so we headed back to Snowdonia this tine near pen-y-pass and got ready to try Snowdon again. And this time we were successful having an amazing day even though there was snow, zero temperatures, and zero views at the summit!
Leaving early evening we were once again hoping to have spent longer in Snowdonia but the weather was so bad we made the decision to just head south spending the night in mid Wales near Aberystwyth and waking once again to cloud, horizontal rain and 50 kmh winds. Just how I remembered Wales living here the best part of my life.
With no let-up in sight over the next 7 days our patience was wearing thin and all of our plans were gone. But we gave it one last go and drove to the gower to look at the coast. This also did not go well and after a failed attempt to walk the coastal path in torrential rain and wind, we walked along the beach and decided that it was time to move on.
Driving back to my moms we spent the night with her and enjoyed a nice meal together then the following day headed back to Folkestone and on to the channel Tunnel for our journey back to Europe. Saying goodbye to Wales for maybe the last time.
It did not go as planned and the Welsh weather had beaten us up badly. But I think that Leela had had a good feel for the country and its people in the 10 days or so that we were there and at least now she believes me when I have spoken of how terrible the weather was growing up an outdoorsman in the country.
Over the last holiday weekend we wanted to get away for a few days. Our choices were a little limited as the weather was terrible all across southern Austria and Slovenia. But not deterred we settled on a spa weekend and a visit to Graz.
We drove the couple of hours and parked up at Terma Nova in Köflach where we knew very well and where the quality would meet our expectations. Arriving at 15:30 we took an afternoon pass and enjoyed the wonderful facilities until they closed. Giving us enough time to have a very late dinner and a beer in the van. We stayed in the car-park overnight and although it was around -6°C we had a comfortable and quiet night.
Waking the next morning to a dusting of fresh snow we drove to Graz for the day but stopping on the way at the art store. This was Leela’s paradise and when she spent an hour going through everything there. I enjoyed a coffee and relaxed in their quiet zone.
Leaving with some fresh paints we parked the van a few km’s from Graz and walked along the river to the centre where the Christmas preparations were in full swing with kids playgrounds, markets and mulled wine.
We took a walk through town and up to the clock tower for a lovely view over the rooftops. There was a lot of people up there including tour groups from italy and beyond. A little too chaotic for us but they were getting what they came for. Christmas market, warm glüewein and all on a frozen morning with a dusting of snow on the ground. An instagramers dream. We continued our walk up to the castle then back down to town and further up the river to the Sushi restaurant where we were very much looking forward to for many days.
We took an empty booth and began the complicated task of actually ordering our meal. They have an all you can eat menu which we wanted to tqke at a slightly large fee of €25 each. But the problem was that you could not just order with the waitress but had to download an app, scan some barcode, and do everything through your mobile phone. We were both quite against this situation but the waitress said that there was no other way of eating there. Strange days.
We were considering leaving as we couldn’t even get the phone to scan the barcode but she came back and took Leela’s phone to log into the App. I am sure that the restaurant now has all her private information, but at least we could eat finally.
Ordering on the phone was strange but the items we wanted did arrive quite quickly each time, still hot, and very tasty. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and for two slim people who normally don’t eat very much we managed to get through a total of 37 different dishes which was quite an achievement.
Leaving the restaurant Leela was stopping me making her laugh as she was seriously worried that she would explode. But after the 5k walk back to the van she felt much better and we drove the 30 minutes back to the spa carpark and enjoyed another peaceful night.
We were up and having breakfast and ready for a full day in the spa early the next day. First we headed for the training pool and slotted ourselves in amongst the Ironman training much to their disgust.
Leela was accepted immediately by the men as she is very attractive and was in her full and eye catching training kit but they were not too happy with an old guy with grey hair wearing baggy board shorts cruising past them all lap after lap.
After a couple of km’s the sauna world was opening and we found ourselves a quiet spot and enjoyed the spa for the day especially the roof top sauna and jacuzzi which were especially nice in the minus temperatures. Reluctantly dragging ourselves away late afternoon we drove the couple of hours back home through the dense fog after a thoroughly enjoyable weekend.
We were planning on going to Venice over a long holiday weekend to visit this year’s Biennale exhibitions but we also wanted a spa day first to relax a little. So we decided very strangely to go to Lake Bled in Slovenia on the Way.
It may not have been a first choice for a spa day but after surprisingly finding out that Leela had never been there, we came up with a few days travel plan. So late on a Wednesday afternoon we made our way to Bled which on any normal day should have taken just over an hour. But after an unplanned stop at the tollbooths of the Karawanken Tunnel, took us just over two.
There is only one camper park near Lake Bled and as is with everywhere now they have really tried to capitalise on the camper van boom. So an off season rainy 24 hours at the end of October costs €20. And a warning if you want to go there in high season they rip you off for 40€. And for this incredible sum you get an open and unsupervised parking lot with no camper service as it was all broken and an option of paying even more if your wagon requires electric. But fortunately the night was peaceful enough with only the heavy rain for company.
The following morning we started with a big cooked breakfast and headed out for a 6km walk around the lake. The weather was very Autumnal but with patches of sunlight and blue sky we enjoyed the views and the walk before returning to the van for some food and to pick up our towels.
We then headed off by foot to Hotel Rikli which offered a day spa to visitors from 12-9pm. The ticket was €30 each which is not too bad as there were 3 steam rooms and 3 Saunas available as well as an outdoor hot pool with stunning views. And also included in the price was a sauna towel and shower towel which is always a nice bonus as drying your own in the van in a wet Autumn week is somewhat difficult!
We spent a lovely few hours there and left around 5pm when it began to get too full and a little too dirty for us as in these 5 hours not one person had been in to clean anything. I guess the hotel couldn’t stretch to paying a cleaner.
Getting back to the van it was already dark and nearly 7pm so we filled up with gas and headed to our planned stop just across the border in Italy only to have a surprise full van and personal identity inspection by 6 police officers at the border crossing. We asked why all the fuss and stringent control but they just mumbled something about Palestine. You would think that a rainy border crossing in northern Italy would not really be on the list for any fleeing Palestinians.
Stopping in Fusine we had a quiet night apart from the heavy rain again and after waking early to a dreadful morning we decided to skip the planned visit to the lakes and just have a coffee and hit the road. Thats if we could actually find it as it was just heavy standing water and torrential rain virtually the whole way until we reached Venice. A really tough drive.
Getting to the Venice camper park we already knew what to expect but it’s still a shock when you get there. A car park like a swamp with a disgusting toilet and shower facilities, no hot water in the mens block, a camper service that you should not use for health reasons and litter everywhere.
If it was not the only available camper parking for the city you would never go there. But we managed to find a dry spot backing on to the wonderful municipal park and as we would not be using any facilities just locked the door for the weekend.
We finally had some breakfast and got ourselves together for the sensory onslaught that is this amazing city and made our way to the tram stop and over the bridge to begin our first day there. We both love Venice and Leela even more so. We have written lots before about this incredible city (diary entry) but it still never ceases to amaze us how it is able to function on a daily basis and now late in October it was still absolutely full with no space to move about freely.
We were really going to make the most of these two days as who knows how long we will be able to access the city with new rules and sanctions proposed and with the ever growing number of tourists causing so much damage it may not be the same for too much longer.
We firstly spent a couple of hours just wondering the streets and people watching before buying our tickets for the Biennale and heading to the Arsenal for the first part of the exhibition. This year was architecture so I was hoping for lots of buildings and bridges and amazing feats of engineering, but we we were both left a little baffled and confused with the general themes of the countries exhibitions.
The interpretation of architecture was stretched quite thin and even though you can obviously see the incredible amount of thought and work that had gone into the individual pieces, it left a lot to the imagination as to read up on everything that was going on would have taken you weeks.
But we are always impressed by such things and after another couple of hours we decided that our brains had had enough and it was time to buy a couple of beers and sit on the dock side and watch the ocean traffic and the sun go down. One of our favourite things to do whilst in Venice. As the sun set we made our way through the masses and back to central station for the short tram ride back to the mainland and the safety and comfort of the van for the rest of the evening.
Saturday morning we were up way before the dawn and ready to roll as a beautiful sunrise lit up the city from across the water. Getting into Venice very early should have given us a chance to explore in relative peace but to our surprise it was already packed. So we enjoyed a coffee and croissant and then headed for the market for an attack on the nasal senses. It is a feast of fresh caught fish that day and so fresh that some of it was still alive on the tables as well as there being so much local produce.
Then over the Rialto bridge to the incredible old post office which is now a very upmarket shopping mall to try and get on to the free viewing platform. But after asking several very unhappy security personnel we found that every single 15 minute entry spot was pre-booked online months in advance and we were told to come back in December. So back into the chaos and off to find the narrowest street in Venice which I could barely get my shoulders through and then to the most chaotic bookshop in the world where unless you were extremely lucky to find what you wanted by chance, you had no hope!
Getting hungry we made our way to the Gardens to have our packed lunch before touring the exhibitions. As the day before, this left us more confused than inspired with only the Romanian entry giving us cause for pause and be informed. After a couple of hours of shuffling around the exhibits we decided to go to the lovely little park at the end of the island and found a bench and just sat in the warm sun for a very long time before heading back to the dock for a supermarket beer and another lovely sunset on maybe the last trip to this incredible but bizarre city for a while.
Sunday morning we were up early once more and surprisingly full of energy considering we had covered over 50 km by foot the last two days. So I went for a 10 km run around the park at sunrise and Leela done some Yoga at the van before trying to make our way out of the cesspit of a parking lot. I say trying as the final issue was to actually open the barrier.
The owners had a new ticket system that couldn’t cope with the clock time change overnight and was trying to charge everyone an extra days payment so the queue was building with a long row of vans, but fortunately we were at the front. If only they would concentrate on cleaning the place then maybe people would not be so annoyed whilst paying for it!
Finally on the road a little later than planned we still made it to the huge shopping mall just outside the city for Leela to pick-up some new shoes and then the long drive home. A wonderful weekend, some new things for us, and a very lucky weather window for touring Venice and its magical and unique experience.
Summer had gone by without even noticing it was here in the first place. Terrible weather, storms, devastating local flooding. So it was time for us to take a break and spend some time together away from our area. I was in a situation to take some longer time away but Leela not so much, so we had to make a Tour Plan.
Part I – Millstättersee
First was a weekend at Millstättersee to try to unwind for a couple of days. We visited this FKK campsite last year (diary entry) and liked the views and the Lake side bathing area. This time we didn’t do any cycling but only ran in the mornings, spent the day at the lake, and the evenings at the van. Nice and simple and just what we wanted.
The campsite was as the previous time and we had a lovely couple of days together and at 5pm on Sunday we said our goodbyes. Her returning to home and me heading in the opposite direction to continue to my next destination.
Part II – Italian Dolomites
Leaving Kärnten late on Sunday afternoon I had quite a lovely drive through East Tyrol to the Italian border at Cillian and then into the Dolomite Mountain range where my first stop was to see the towers of Tre-Chime.
I had a nice plan to park-up at a location where it should have been quiet and hike up to the hut and around the towers the following morning. Wow was I in for a surprise! It’s the second week of September and already off-season with the kids back in school. So I fully expected to only see like minded outdoor enthusiasts and maybe some retired people on tour, but I was not prepared for the sensory onslaught and sheer amount of people on the mountain. I did eventually find a parking place and enjoyed a couple of beers watching Wales win their first game in the World Cup, before going to bed way too late for me and slightly drunk!
Waking early it was full gas to have breakfast, make sandwiches and be on the trail by 7am. But incredibly the toll road was already queuing for over a KM at this time. Fortunately my hiking path took me away from the road and a very pleasant hike through lush forest to the hut. And heres where the fun starts.
I have no actual idea how many cars, vans, campers and buses were parked up there but I have never seen anything like it before. There was also every conceivable person here as well. Everything from flip flops, trainers, sweatpants, jeans, a girl in a dress, the Instagram hunters in full matching luminous gear all the way through to complete winter mountaineering packs. Not to mention the E-bikes, dogs both on lead and being carried in handbags and a Chinese man in full black Burka. Presumably to stop the sun. Quite unreal if you weren’t there. Oh and didn’t I mention the Drones… The F * * * * * G drones! Even though there is a complete ban on them in the national park.
The views up there are quite spectacular in every direction. The mountain range is quite unique from any other with the rock formations giving an incredible vista against the crisp blue morning sky. The weather was just perfect and although it was still relatively early it was getting quite warm. So after a quick sandwich to re-fuel as I had already hiked over 5km, I began the circular walk around the towers so you can get a full idea of how large these rocks are.
The path begins like a road which takes you to the next hut but then its a short climb to the viewing platform from where you get a first glimpse of the 3 towers. It really is an incredible piece of rock and well worth the physical effort of getting there. Or just drive there like everyone else.
As you drop down some meters you get an even better view of the scale of them and as the sun was still behind, a marvellous view of the outline against the blue sky.
From here the main path (basically a road) heads further away to the Instagram photo platform but by this time I had enough of the crowds and took the more difficult path through the boulder field and re-joined the masses again at the next hut before a last gimps of the rocks and returning to the start.
By now it was swarming there with bus fulls of tour groups and the late sleepers. The noise for me was getting too much as a group of 20-30 German Porsche “enthusiasts” were hearing up and down the street showing off their overly priced and quite pointless private parts. So it was time to head back into the forest, eat the rest of my food by a beautiful river and make my way to the van.
I guess you should take the time to visit Tre Chime if you are in the Dolomites as it really is truly magnificent. But if you love nature and peace and quiet. You are going to be very disappointed.
After a shower and a cold beer by a lovely lake I had a couple of hours in the afternoon sun deciding what to do next. And after a nice hot meal with a view I put everything away and was on the road to my next destination.
Lago di Sorapis is probably second behind Tre Chime on the Instagram to do list so I was fully not expecting to be alone there. Nevertheless I took the short evening drive to where I was expecting to park but as per the previous night there was just no chance. I have never seen so many cars and campers on a mountain pass and I have followed the Tour de France many times! So I drove 2 km further to the huge car park of the ski lifts and although there was a lot of construction work going on, had a very peaceful night with a spectacular view from the van window.
Up a tad later than I would have liked due to the previous days energy output and a couple of beers, I was packed and on the trail a little before 8am. The extra couple of km’s done and I was at the trailhead reasonably alone still with just a few people who generally looked like they knew what they were doing.
The trail starts, and indeed continues, in just the most spectacular scenery. The mountains are incredible in every direction which means making progress can be a little disjointed due to all the stopping to look at the views and photo taking. The first sections are through lush forest on easy going paths before it becomes steeper and more technical in places as you get closer to the lake. But easily manageable if you are fit and have a good head for heights as well as sure footing.
The weather once more was perfect with very warm temperatures no wind and blue skies and on reaching the lake these conditions made it look even more picture perfect. I was a little surprised to see the amount of people already hanging around but most I think had been staying at the hut and were viewing it after their breakfast.
I stopped for a while to eat my lunch and take in the surroundings but unfortunately again the peace and tranquility was spoilt by the general loudness of the new generation in such environments, but by far the worst is the constant flying of drones. What an absolute nuisance to the mountaineer and nature lover. The bans and fines should be somehow enforced. But after my lunch I took one last walk around this majestic lake and made my way back down the mountain and back to the van for a welcome shower and food.
It really was a fantastic trail and to have that lake at the end of it a delight. Both Tre Chime and Lago di Sorapis are must sees if you are visiting the Dolomites and are a mountain lover. Just have the patience of a Saint whilst on the trail, even in so called off season.
Over my dinner I could see that the weather was really changing for the worse the next two days so I decided to leave a day earlier than planned and head to the ocean for the next part of the plan.
Part III – Baška or maybe Punat…
It was a beautiful drive down through the Dolomites on a lovely evening. The traffic was kind and even the Highway was no stress all the way to Traviso, even if there was a little anxiety with the fuel range reading zero and me having a further 50km to get to the border with Slovenia for 50 cents a litre cheaper Diesel.
Stress over and as it was still early enough and a lovely evening I decided to continue driving to Croatia and stopped for the night at a lovely spot under the KRK bridge and watched the sunset drop slowly behind the boats in the Harbour.
The next morning was an early start so after a coffee I was on the road down to the south of the island. First stop was to wash the van as it had taken some collateral damage the last weeks driving then to a supermarket just outside Baška where I was very surprised that at 8am they had no fresh produce and very little alcohol. So I just bought the very basics and made my way to Bunculuka camp site a further few minutes down the road and when I arrived I realised why the supermarket was so empty. The place was absolutely rammed.
We both have been going to this camp for many, many years, and I have never failed to get a choice of pitches at any time of the year. But the receptionist said “No” absolutely full, every single pitch taken or reserved and already a queue of vans lined up to take the next one out’s pitch. Just total and utter chaos and a very unpleasant atmosphere everywhere.
So I hung around for a couple of hours, used the showers, took a dip in the amazing ocean and bought some bread from the bakery. Wondered around searching for a place but to no avail. Enough was enough so I returned to the receptionist who could not understand why I was leaving, picked up my passport and was unexpectedly on the road again a lot sooner than I would have liked.
Next on the original plan would have been to go to camp Konobe in Punat which is only 30 minutes drive to the west of the island. There we have also been many times and indeed we got engaged there last May. So after a normal arrival, a choice of nice pitches, and a quick look around, I was already setting up in a beautiful pitch with an amazing view and hopefully not moving for the next week or so.
The rest of the day was spent doing chores that a week on the road and in the mountains catch up on you. Camper service, washing clothes, essential shopping and a clean up of the van so that it was at least respectable for when Leela arrived for the weekend.
I spent the next couple of days in very pleasant weather, running, SUP, listening to music, reading and just hanging around in this incredible location. And when Leela arrived, we done exactly the same. A wonderful time together that went way too quick and a sadness when she had to leave on Sunday evening.
I spent the rest of the week there alone in sometimes nice but mostly bad weather with a very wet font all around. But nevertheless it was very nice just to sit and enjoy the view and do some planning for our Trips in 2024.
If you talk about Naturism in Croatia then for sure Valalta camping will be mentioned. It was founded in 1968 and is the largest nudist camp in the whole of Croatia, occupying over 5 km of pristine Coastline. And it’s just HUGE!
We normally do not like such places and try to avoid any campsite that can accommodate more than a 1000 people but after treating couple for massage at our local FKK campsite and hearing about their recent trip there we decided to give it a try over the following long weekend.
The first thing that hits you when you arrive, after the huge sign outside the campsite for a swingers club, is that there are no reservations for the place. You just arrive, check in, and drive around until you find a free pitch that suits you. It’s uncomplicated and incredibly easy for the camp and the sheer mass of numbers allows them to operate this way. But unfortunately its a real pain in the arse for the visitor, especially if you have never been there before.
The camp is just HUGE and with a rabbit warren of tiny streets its almost impossible to decide on a pitch whilst also concentrating on your driving and avoiding the half asleep and hungover guests standing in the middle of the road first thing in the morning. But after 30 minutes searching we finally settled on a pitch that also had a sea view which we were hoping for.
The next hour was spent setting up and finally having some breakfast before returning to the check in to give our pitch number and taking a walk around the site together with a visit to the very impressive and well stocked supermarket which pretty much had everything from camping chairs to their own self made wine and beer.
Continuing on our 5 km walk we checked out the impressive sport complex with tennis, soccer and basketball courts. The two mini golf areas, swimming pool complex, car wash, shops and finally the hilltop viewing towers overlooking the Lim Canal. Then returning along the coastline, past the marina, bars, seaside pools and beaches, before returning to the van. Did I mention that this place was HUGE?!
The rest of the day was first spent going for a run through the nearby forest, lounging at the van and lying by the pool before the main event of cooking steak and chips for dinner which we had been looking forward to.
The next day we had a long bike tour planned so after breakfast and preparing a packed lunch we headed off. First through thick forest along the side of the canal then cutting inland through some real charming mountain bike paths before reaching the coast again around 10 km below Rovinj. Here we connected with the lovely coastal path that ran through a terribly overrun and loud camping before stopping for our lunch at nice FKK beach and grass park under the trees.
Back on the bikes following this sublime path to Rovinj where we had planned another stop to look around the town as we enjoyed it so much last year when we visited for the day. But there must have just been a cruise ship arrival as it was completely full so we just rode on through the masses without stopping this time.
Joining the coastal path again after the town it was a short ride through some lovely forest before rejoining the road at the swingers club and then back to the van with the last of the afternoon spent lying at the pool. A really nice and recommended tour if you are staying at the camp.
The weather on Saturday was not so great so we relaxed around the van and took a long walk around the full extremities of the camp. After lunch it began to open up again so we made a fun few rounds of golf before taking to the tennis courts to try out our new rackets!
Sunday we had to leave and of course the sun shone all day without a cloud in the sky! So we just lay by the ocean in the morning and took a couple of swims and after lunch we left the pitch and made the most of the pool area before reluctantly peeling ourselves away for the journey home.
We very rarely get overly excited about a camp site but we were both really taken by Valalta. We loved the fact that it was based on a first come basis. We were really impressed that there were no dogs allowed on the site which makes it both cleaner and quieter. It was spectacularly clean and well maintained for such a huge site. All the facilities functioned correctly. The sport complex was perfect for us and the location suited our sporting lifestyle with plenty of bike and running tours possible in relative safety. The supermarket was well stocked and the pool area a real bonus.
If we had to pick up on something negative then we would have to say that it is really expensive to stay there and the cost of 15€ for one hour of tennis also put us off playing more than once which we would have liked to have done. But you really do get what you pay for and as they are for sure not short of customers they can get away with charging what they want. That said, we have paid the same before for absolutely terrible sites so it is all relative.
It was a fantastic few days and we will for sure return sooner than later. We have been so fortunate this month to have stayed in two new campsites to us which have been spectacular but for completely different reasons. Firstly Mali Raj in Slovenia (diary entry) for its tiny intimacy and idyllic location and now Valalta in Istria which manages to keep quality in all of its hugeness!
Slovenia is a lovely country to travel. It has wonderful mountains, lakes and countryside but unfortunately for us very little coastline. This is due to its transition from a region within Yugoslavia to an independent country. The details of which are confusing to me, as with all politics, but I believe that it actually could have been worse and at least they did manage to hold on to 45 km of coast that the region always had before the break-up.
That said we don’t go to the Slovenian coast as we just don’t like it so much. Too compact, too many people and quite frankly, too loud. Not to mention the lack of campsites there. But Slovenia has many wonderful locations to choose from inland. The countryside reminds me a lot of Wales and the campsites also. Lush green fields and rivers with traditional Welsh grassed campsites in the mountains or at riversides. Still giving the feeling of when tents ruled the camp grounds and not luxurious motorhomes.
There is also a distinct lack of FKK campsites in Slovenia which we find remarkable as the FKK Camps in Croatia are literally drowning in Slovenian people. But in their own country there are only two part FKK part textile camps which do not interest us as much as we don’t like in the segregation and only one dedicated FKK camp in the whole country. Which is where we would like to talk about.
Mali Raj is located in the Novo Mesto area of Slovenia deep in the countryside and not all that far from the border with Croatia. It is a very small and basic site run by a father and daughter and lies quite beautifully along the banks of the River Krka. It is wonderfully maintained and can accommodate around 50 guests at full capacity although the owner informed us that she never overloads the site so that it keeps its space and freedom.
We arrived on Friday evening a lot later than we had planned and we were very surprised entering the site. Firstly to see its incredible beauty and secondly to see that there was not another single person there. Driving down the entrance road you immediately are overtaken by the location and as we were surveying all of the parking options a very cheerful lady appeared at the side of the van.
Katja is the daughter of the partnership and her helpfulness and enthusiasm not only for the camp but also for the area really is apparent. She advised which plots are better for our type of camper but as there was nobody there we just took the first one but any of the riverside plots are amazing. She left us to sort ourselves out and after a walk around to get our bearings in the setting sun, we headed back to the van for a glass of wine whilst looking out on to the majestic flowing river sweeping by directly in front of our door.
The night was so peaceful and we woke to the morning sun lighting up patches of green all around. We were so overcome by our surroundings and complete peace and quiet, something that is not possible to experience at home, that we decided to skip our morning run and just enjoy this gift we had been given.
The day passed with short walks along the river, reading, painting, sunbathing, a cold beer and a very cold dip in the river. And best of all was that you could be naked the whole day as the warm sun shone down until late in the afternoon. It was really incredible that not one single other person, anywhere, thought that it would be a good idea to visit this particular camp on a weekend where it was only sunny and 25 degrees?! In fact the only person we saw that day was Katja who came to make sure that we were ok and to give us some maps and tour advice which we shall use on our next visit.
After such a wonderful day we once again had a peaceful night with only the river as company and woke to another beautiful day. This time we did venture out on our morning run through some idyllic forest before spending much of the day as the one before.
Talking to both Katja and her father during the day we were already making plans for a return visit but next time for longer and with the bikes. There is so much to explore in the surrounding countryside by foot or by bike as well as some local tennis courts to play. And if the weather turns bad then there is always the option of the nearby Terme which we visited last year (diary entry) and can also easily be reached by foot or bike directly from the campsite.
The camp has basic facilities but is immaculately clean and well kept. It can accommodate a moderately large camper with good driving as well as many tent pitches. There is electric if you need it, hot water, and a camper service at the entrance. And with its unique location there is nothing more you need if you are a true nature lover.
We were both really taken by this natural paradise, its peacefulness, its beauty, and the relaxed manner of its naturist owners. We were of course phenomenally fortunate to have this paradise completely to ourselves for a whole weekend and in perfect weather but there is no doubt that we will return as soon as we have an opportunity to this real Slovenian hidden gem.
Wales is a country with only one true religion, Rugby. I have been a devout follower to this religion my whole life. I grew up in the 70’s when the players were more well known than any Pope would ever be. I was myself a player as a young man before my sporting path took me in a direction where my body type was more suited. But the passion for my local club and the national team still follows me wherever I am travelling or living in the world.
Last year whilst watching the six nations we thought it would be a great opportunity to watch my first live game after moving to Austria (no quality rugby here) as well as Leela’s first game ever and also combine a trip to Rome in the process. Something I had been harping on about the last 8 years!
Getting tickets was a lot more straightforward than trying to buy a ticket for a Cardiff game and after negotiating my way through the Italian website for an hour we had our seat numbers and the tickets had been patiently sat on the shelf for one whole year. Then finally it was time to be on our way and packing the van for the 5 day trip in a freezing Austria we were both very excited to be on the Road to Rome.
The drive there is very tedious. 800 km of just motorway and as we had only time for Rome and not to detour through the wonderful surrounding countryside we bit of a large chunk on a Wednesday evening, had a very disruptive night in a motorway gas station, and a very early start to arrive at our camp site before 12:00 on Thursday.
Just one word on the driving – Chaos. The Italians in general do not know how to drive and have Zero respect for any other road users. But in Rome it’s a whole new level of absurdness. Overtaking, undertaking, speeding, mobile phone use whilst smoking or doing their make-up, and the use of the horn if they think you are taking just one single second out of their drive is phenomenal.
Camping Village Flaminio is around 8 km from the centre of Rome and with the off season Acsi card is fairly reasonable for what it is. Clean-ish, small pitches, unfriendly receptionists, toilets and showers work-ish, and as a bonus you do get classical music pumping out at full volume whilst you shower! But you are ultimately there for the location rather than the hospitality. And after a terrifying 500m walk with no crossings or pavement to the train station which looked like something from the Bronx in the 70’s. It’s only a 20 minute ride to town.
We had both been to Rome before independently, Leela 23 years ago and me 11 years ago. So we were very much looking forward to sharing the experience together. And on the Wednesday afternoon we set off from the camp site on a 3 day expedition covering nearly 90 km by foot from one end of the city to the other and everywhere in between. We checked out all the famous sites from the Pantheon which is probably both our favourite building, the Spanish steps, the Trevi fountain, the Colosseum, St. Peters, and nearly every Roman ruin and park that is in the city. Returning to the van late each night hungry and exhausted but yet still full of energy after the amazing days experiences. The only thing we were unable to view was the Vatican as there were no tickets available and on Saturday we were unable to go because it was game day!
And to the game… We were excited to wake on Saturday morning especially when we saw that the weather forecast was over 20 degrees and sunny. And after a large breakfast we ran the gauntlet to the train station and soon we were in town and greeted by a sea of red and a lot of familiar accents. We spent most of the morning just wondering the streets and taking in the lovely atmosphere that only an international rugby match can bring. So many red jerseys, dragons, daffodils and general all round positivity, excitement and laughter. At midday we left the centre, bought a couple of cold ones, and made our way across the bridge to the Castle gardens where we sat in spring sunshine eating our packed lunch and enjoying a cold Peroni.
As the fans started to make their way toward the stadium we joined them for the hours walk along the river. It’s really amazing to see how much support we have for our national team and how many will travel from such a small country and at such expense, it felt like half of Wales were on their way to the game.
When we arrived at the main entry way to the stadium it was clear that it would be a sell-out crowd. The noise was building, the street vendors making a roaring trade and the supporters of both teams mixing together without a single issue. Such a difference from going to watch a soccer match. There is a different mindset in the rugby world.
After some very light security checks we were finally inside the ground and after buying a couple of overpriced beers which just had to be done we were at our quite fantastic seats on the 22 and enjoying the Italian hospitality and sunshine. The stadium, although at capacity of 75 thousand, seemed quite small to me. It was for sure very pretty inside and the blue sky enhanced the experience no end, but it didn’t seem to be that loud either and the noise escaped very easily, not really like a game in Cardiff. But when your home stadium is known as being the best in the world, I guess you are somewhat spoilt.
As kickoff approached Leela was really beginning to enjoy her first rugby experience. She was a little apprehensive at first as she, like me, does not like to be in the presence of large crowds. But it was such a nice and relaxed atmosphere with respect being shown by both sets of fans, so it was easy to enjoy. The game turned out really well, for Wales anyway, and the match went by so fast we lost track. The players walked the pitch at full time and gave the respect back to the travelling fans which is always a nice gesture win or lose. Then we made our way back to town with the thousands and we had a final couple of beers whilst sitting on the fountain of the Piazza del Popolo and talking of such a wonderful Rome experience.
We made our way back to the train and the van whilst the rest of the fans were making their way to the centre for what I am sure was a night filled with singing and maybe a few beers.
Leaving the next day was tough as it was now 23 degrees and full spring sunshine and warmth. This time we were unable to extend our stay, but we knew that soon we would be on the road again.
