With the mountain weather pretty stormy the last weeks in Austria we were desperate to get outdoors but struggling with choice. I didn’t particularly want to fight with the weather and I also did not want to repeat mountains just for the sake of it. So I looked a little further away for a change.
Having seen the classic pictures of Monte Lussari on Instagram I thought it was time to check it out. So after a little research on which path to take and how to get there as well as the weather forecast for the coming days we were ready to go.
The drive from where we live to Italy is pretty easy as it is straight freeway and on arriving I did not realise how large a ski resort this was so parking was easy at the foot of the slopes also.
The path was pretty much the only one from this location and also the most popular being used by all hikers and ski tourers so it was not quiet to say the least. But they had a lot of snow there and with the cold weather the path was actually quite pleasant and simple snow chains on your boots was more than sufficient for the whole hike.
It’s a pretty decent climb of 1000 hm over 6 km but you don’t really notice it as the gradient is almost constant except for a few places. The whole way up is unfortunately in the forest and you have no views but as you get near the summit the incredible scenery begins to show and the final meters are just outstanding.
The views from the summit in good weather which we had were out of this world. Really stunning in every direction and well worth the tough climb. When you do get to the top it’s quite a strange situation there. A small village with bars, restaurants, accommodation and the famous church landmark. Its quite surreal to find all this here together with all the fur lined coat and boot wearers who have made the trip up with the gondola for drinks and a meal. But nevertheless it was really a lovely hike and mountain.
Returning to the valley with the gondola we drove to Tarivisio and had just the most wonderful pizza. The Italians just do it better. Before returning home after a great day out in the mountains.
If you live or are in the area then maybe put this on your to-do list.
Reluctantly leaving the Passo Giau I was aiming for a relatively quieter area of the Dolomites for the next days but arriving at my planned park up I found that it had been taken over by construction workers. So after a re-think I decided to call the campsite that I had pre-booked for the weekend to see if I could arrive a day early.
Palafavera
Camping Palafavera is a very old and basic camp but clean and very cheap for these parts. I needed a camper service anyway so it served its purpose for a few days and its also in a pretty good location I found out later.
Arriving in the afternoon I just sorted the van out and the next morning I was on the trail early with a beautiful hike to Rifugio Coldai and then on to Lago di Coldai which is a wonderful place for a stop before returning the same way to the camp.
After an hour break I took the bike and made my way down the pass to Pecol and then the mountain bike trail to Rifugio Pian del Crep, stopping at the picturesque and very cold waterfalls of Gavon picol and Gavon Grand on the way. Both waterfalls had deep enough pools to get into and the fresh mountain water certainly wakes you up! Returning to Pecol on some great forest MTB tracks I then made my way back up the pass and back to the van as the evening storms were coming in only getting a little wet on the way.
The next day and with bad weather forecast for the next week I was on the bike very early. First to Rifugio Col dei Baldi on some severely steep tracks before descending through the picturesque Coldai Alm and back to the camp. A short and sharp bike but perfect to get back before the bad weather.
Driving to Rifugio Marmolade Castiglioni I found a nice spot for the van and hiked the quite steep trail to Rifugio Luigi Gorza the highest I have been on this trip at 2600m. This vantage point gave incredible views of the Marmolade Glacier opposite and after a long lunch I made my way back down before the afternoon rains came.
Getting back there was so much commotion with a family of travellers arrived nearby who had at least 8 uncontrollable huge dogs that were howling constantly at every passer by. This together with more dogs and a now full and partying car park, I decided that I would not be able to enjoy the rest of my day there and moved on to my next destination.
Driving over the extremely challenging and completely chaotic Porodai, Sella and Gardena passes, I eventually and completely exhausted arrived at Santa Christina camper stop.
After a surprisingly good nights sleep considering there was a waterfall behind my head and the van was on a 10% slope even with the ramps, I was up and out the door at 6:00am for what would be the toughest hike so far on this trip.
Seceda
Seceda is one of the most famous mountains in the Dolomites for its unique jagged and angled profile. 90% of people take the cable cars there but there are the 10% who toil up this arduous track. And as I was currently parked 9km away from the summit as well as being 1300m below it, I should get my skates on.
The trek up is remarkably steep in parts and mostly boring until you reach the Alm. And in the early morning light it really looked spectacular, which was more than could be said for the actual mountain in front of me which looked quite uninspiring! This was playing with me as I had put this mountain as number one on my list of hikes and I was feeling a little let down. But the true majesty is only visible when you reach the summit and view it from the side.
It really is an incredible sight and thanks to the hard shift I put in I made it there just as the buzzer for the lifts went off meaning I had 10 minutes of truly magnificent peace and quiet in this location completely alone.
This peace was immediately undone by the 100’s of selfie-takers touching up their make-up, lipstick and straightening their hot-pants before swarming over every spare inch of sacred ground. Which signalled my time to leave and I very carefully make my way back to base camp for a well deserved cold beer…
Seiser Alm
The next day was a bike trip to the Seiser Alm. Lots had been said about this place so I was excited to see it for myself. Heading down the Valley to Oresei you take the very small mountain road directly to the Alm. Unfortunately there was a road closed sign at the bottom but as I had already ridden this far I decided to just try and if I didn’t work out I would just return the same way. As it happens there was no chance to ride a good 2 km section but as I was so early and the workmen had not arrived yet I just pushed and carried the bike through the construction site, jumped a fence, and continued on my way. No-one would ever know…
Getting to the Alm after a very tough climb, I rode around for a while taking in the scenery before heading on a MTB trail through the woods and eventually back to base. I read a lot and saw a lot of photos on Instagram about this place but to be honest I felt a little let down. Don’t get me wrong it’s extremely beautiful but after the previous day I maybe would have liked a little more reward for the extreme effort to get there. Perhaps if you drive there or used a motor-E-bike, it would be worth it. But on a real bike it’s really not worth that type of effort. But at least there was another 1200 meters of climbing in the legs.
Leaving St. Christina after a couple of days I was on my way to the final destination of the mountains. To ride the number one on the list of European road climbs that I have not yet done in my life. And I don’t have many left to climb. The famous Stelvio pass.
Stelvio Pass
Knowing that the climb would be long and also that rain was forecast around 2pm I was on the road by 6:45am as I wanted it done in the dry. The cars and motorbikes are crazy and unpredictable with dry roads and just life threatening to cyclists in the wet. So from previous extensive experience it was important to keep myself as safe as is possible on these mountain passes.
Setting off from the climbs starting point of Spondinig you have only a slight gradient until you pass through Prato allo and then it begins to ramp up through Ponte di Stelvio and Maso di Fuori. By the time I reached corner 45 I was already in my lowest gear and thinking that this was maybe going to be too much for me after only 10 days of hard exercise in the last 8 months. But the views of the 3900m Ortler glacier were distracting me from the next 44 corners!
Continuing to constantly increase in elevation and steepness you reach the Franzenshöhe hotel and corner 22 which is where the real climbing starts! Now beginning to find a nice rhythm I was thinking that I could actually make it. And apart from a slight blip at corner 8 where I had to stop and stretch my knee, I comfortably made it to the summit. But my joy was short lived as you are met by complete and utter chaos!
Honestly it was terrible. Hundreds of motorcycles, cars, people, sausage stands, tat stands, loud music, and general disrespect for the mountain. I had a very quick turnaround, a photo at the summit post, and then immediately dropped back down a few hundred meters away from it all. It is so sad to see how people behave in such incredible environments. It’s bad enough that they treat these mountain passes like their own personal race track and how there are not more fatal accidents truly amazes me. In the 5 hours I was on the road I saw only 2 ambulances but at least 50 near misses.
Positively it was nice to see many roadies making their way up as well as a few idiots on real mountain bikes so it was not only me. But I think that I may have been the only one carrying a full chicken curry in his rucksack for lunch! And after thoroughly enjoying this feast I made my way back down but now wearing what looked like winter hiking gear except for the shorts. I am so glad I took everything with me as it was an absolutely freezing 28 km descent.
Getting back to the van and after 56km, 5:30 of riding, and an elevation gain of 1810 meters, I was good for nothing. But an incredible final day in the Italian Alps. Now I will make my way to Milan Airport to pick up my beautiful girl on her return from America so that we can head to France and finally be together again.
Finally the time had come to be back on the road and the departure time had finally arrived for both of us. Unfortunately we were heading off in completely different directions, and continents…
To begin our trip Leela was heading stateside for two weeks and whilst she was there I would make my way slowly to our rendezvous point of Milan Airport through the Dolomites in Northern Italy.
So I finalised the apartment in a state to be left alone for the best part of 5 months and got the van ready. It was loaded to the max and after a visit to a weigh bridge I found out quite literally to the Max. But it was gleaming in the sun and patiently waiting for me to get my fat arse into the drivers seat again.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
After a long drive I made it to a ski lift car park about 10 km outside Cortina d’Ampezzo which would be my first base for a couple of days. The following morning I was up and raring to go.
First was a bike trip down the Passo Tre Croci to Cortina and after a look around the town which more resembled a building site as preparations were already well underway to host the 2026 Winter Olympics, I made my way out and up the very steep climb to Rifugio Mietres and on through some beautiful woodland and back to the van. The views in every single direction no matter where you are in the Dolomites are utterly indescribable so I won’t bore you on every tour. You can see yourselves from the photos.
Taking a break and putting the bike away I was feeling very good so I thought I would chance my arm for a first short hike in nearly 8 months. Donning my new fangled knee support I headed out up Monte Faloria keeping to the forest road to be as safe as possible if I needed to turn back. Hiking along I was feeling very little to no pain so I continued through the rain and ended up at Rifugio Faloria which was an amazing feat, although I still had to get back down which usually caused all the problems!
Sitting a while on this majestic view point high above Cortina you had the most amazing views of the mountains. I could also see from a distance a storm coming my way so it was time to head back down. With my earphones on, which were not drowning out the thunder all around, I made it back to the van in one piece and only a little wet.
Waking early the next day I was out on the bike making my way back down to Cortina and then up the road climb to the ski station at Pie Tofana and on to Lago Po’Druscie. Heading back down to Cortina a little later I was still left with the daunting climb back up Passo Tre Croci and after a tough first km I was beginning to find my bike legs again. Slowly… Heading up I passed 2 E-bikers and managed to hold off a group of 5 Ironmen until the last km when I was running out of gas.
Now completely exhausted from my day on the bike I was good for nothing except a shower and a sit down with a cold beer. But I couldn’t relax for long as I was back on the road and very excited to be heading to Passo Giau.
Passo Giau
The last time I was there was in 2012 to watch the Giro d’ Italia and I woke on the morning of the race with 4″ of snow covering the van, so I was hoping for better weather this time! I found a lovely flat and relatively quiet park up and took a short walk to the col. It was late afternoon and the amount of people there was really quite amazing. So I took a few photos and milled around for a while before returning for an early night.
The following morning I was on the trail at dawn and heading back up the col and deep into these incredible mountains toward my planned destination of Forcela Ambrizzola. It was a very difficult climb to Forcella di Giau but I think that the sublime early morning beauty took my mind off it as I seemed to be at the top in no time at all!
Walking down this majestic alpine scene after already covering over 6km and with my destination still quite far away I decided not to push my luck as going back down was going to be tough on the knee. So after hearing the Marmot’s screaming their alarm bells off in a distant meadow I decided to try my luck with some wildlife photography!
Not ever having seen one of these furry creatures in the wild didn’t put me off. So I wondered slowly way off piste until I saw some things scurrying in the distant scrub. And there they were, 5 or 6 just playing in the morning sun.
After locating the entrance to their Den I set the phone on a tripod as close to the entry as possible and then retreated as far as my bluetooth remote trigger would allow and waited. And waited. And waited. Then finally not one but two heads appeared to take a look around but they were way to cautious and retreated back to safety very quickly.Â
Calling it a day I turned around to see a much more inquisitive one watching my every move from behind me the whole time, so I set up station outside his home and waited. And after no time at all he was up and out and I managed to have my first wild experience with these amazing creatures.
I took one more detour to a remote location away from the gathering hoards and just lay in the sun for a while before returning to the path and the long hike back to the van. A truly exceptional day on the mountains and time to think about moving on. Where to next?
We were planning on going to Venice over a long holiday weekend to visit this year’s Biennale exhibitions but we also wanted a spa day first to relax a little. So we decided very strangely to go to Lake Bled in Slovenia on the Way.
It may not have been a first choice for a spa day but after surprisingly finding out that Leela had never been there, we came up with a few days travel plan. So late on a Wednesday afternoon we made our way to Bled which on any normal day should have taken just over an hour. But after an unplanned stop at the tollbooths of the Karawanken Tunnel, took us just over two.
There is only one camper park near Lake Bled and as is with everywhere now they have really tried to capitalise on the camper van boom. So an off season rainy 24 hours at the end of October costs €20. And a warning if you want to go there in high season they rip you off for 40€. And for this incredible sum you get an open and unsupervised parking lot with no camper service as it was all broken and an option of paying even more if your wagon requires electric. But fortunately the night was peaceful enough with only the heavy rain for company.
The following morning we started with a big cooked breakfast and headed out for a 6km walk around the lake. The weather was very Autumnal but with patches of sunlight and blue sky we enjoyed the views and the walk before returning to the van for some food and to pick up our towels.
We then headed off by foot to Hotel Rikli which offered a day spa to visitors from 12-9pm. The ticket was €30 each which is not too bad as there were 3 steam rooms and 3 Saunas available as well as an outdoor hot pool with stunning views. And also included in the price was a sauna towel and shower towel which is always a nice bonus as drying your own in the van in a wet Autumn week is somewhat difficult!
We spent a lovely few hours there and left around 5pm when it began to get too full and a little too dirty for us as in these 5 hours not one person had been in to clean anything. I guess the hotel couldn’t stretch to paying a cleaner.
Getting back to the van it was already dark and nearly 7pm so we filled up with gas and headed to our planned stop just across the border in Italy only to have a surprise full van and personal identity inspection by 6 police officers at the border crossing. We asked why all the fuss and stringent control but they just mumbled something about Palestine. You would think that a rainy border crossing in northern Italy would not really be on the list for any fleeing Palestinians.
Stopping in Fusine we had a quiet night apart from the heavy rain again and after waking early to a dreadful morning we decided to skip the planned visit to the lakes and just have a coffee and hit the road. Thats if we could actually find it as it was just heavy standing water and torrential rain virtually the whole way until we reached Venice. A really tough drive.
Getting to the Venice camper park we already knew what to expect but it’s still a shock when you get there. A car park like a swamp with a disgusting toilet and shower facilities, no hot water in the mens block, a camper service that you should not use for health reasons and litter everywhere.
If it was not the only available camper parking for the city you would never go there. But we managed to find a dry spot backing on to the wonderful municipal park and as we would not be using any facilities just locked the door for the weekend.
We finally had some breakfast and got ourselves together for the sensory onslaught that is this amazing city and made our way to the tram stop and over the bridge to begin our first day there. We both love Venice and Leela even more so. We have written lots before about this incredible city (diary entry) but it still never ceases to amaze us how it is able to function on a daily basis and now late in October it was still absolutely full with no space to move about freely.
We were really going to make the most of these two days as who knows how long we will be able to access the city with new rules and sanctions proposed and with the ever growing number of tourists causing so much damage it may not be the same for too much longer.
We firstly spent a couple of hours just wondering the streets and people watching before buying our tickets for the Biennale and heading to the Arsenal for the first part of the exhibition. This year was architecture so I was hoping for lots of buildings and bridges and amazing feats of engineering, but we we were both left a little baffled and confused with the general themes of the countries exhibitions.
The interpretation of architecture was stretched quite thin and even though you can obviously see the incredible amount of thought and work that had gone into the individual pieces, it left a lot to the imagination as to read up on everything that was going on would have taken you weeks.
But we are always impressed by such things and after another couple of hours we decided that our brains had had enough and it was time to buy a couple of beers and sit on the dock side and watch the ocean traffic and the sun go down. One of our favourite things to do whilst in Venice. As the sun set we made our way through the masses and back to central station for the short tram ride back to the mainland and the safety and comfort of the van for the rest of the evening.
Saturday morning we were up way before the dawn and ready to roll as a beautiful sunrise lit up the city from across the water. Getting into Venice very early should have given us a chance to explore in relative peace but to our surprise it was already packed. So we enjoyed a coffee and croissant and then headed for the market for an attack on the nasal senses. It is a feast of fresh caught fish that day and so fresh that some of it was still alive on the tables as well as there being so much local produce.
Then over the Rialto bridge to the incredible old post office which is now a very upmarket shopping mall to try and get on to the free viewing platform. But after asking several very unhappy security personnel we found that every single 15 minute entry spot was pre-booked online months in advance and we were told to come back in December. So back into the chaos and off to find the narrowest street in Venice which I could barely get my shoulders through and then to the most chaotic bookshop in the world where unless you were extremely lucky to find what you wanted by chance, you had no hope!
Getting hungry we made our way to the Gardens to have our packed lunch before touring the exhibitions. As the day before, this left us more confused than inspired with only the Romanian entry giving us cause for pause and be informed. After a couple of hours of shuffling around the exhibits we decided to go to the lovely little park at the end of the island and found a bench and just sat in the warm sun for a very long time before heading back to the dock for a supermarket beer and another lovely sunset on maybe the last trip to this incredible but bizarre city for a while.
Sunday morning we were up early once more and surprisingly full of energy considering we had covered over 50 km by foot the last two days. So I went for a 10 km run around the park at sunrise and Leela done some Yoga at the van before trying to make our way out of the cesspit of a parking lot. I say trying as the final issue was to actually open the barrier.
The owners had a new ticket system that couldn’t cope with the clock time change overnight and was trying to charge everyone an extra days payment so the queue was building with a long row of vans, but fortunately we were at the front. If only they would concentrate on cleaning the place then maybe people would not be so annoyed whilst paying for it!
Finally on the road a little later than planned we still made it to the huge shopping mall just outside the city for Leela to pick-up some new shoes and then the long drive home. A wonderful weekend, some new things for us, and a very lucky weather window for touring Venice and its magical and unique experience.
Summer had gone by without even noticing it was here in the first place. Terrible weather, storms, devastating local flooding. So it was time for us to take a break and spend some time together away from our area. I was in a situation to take some longer time away but Leela not so much, so we had to make a Tour Plan.
Part I – Millstättersee
First was a weekend at Millstättersee to try to unwind for a couple of days. We visited this FKK campsite last year (diary entry) and liked the views and the Lake side bathing area. This time we didn’t do any cycling but only ran in the mornings, spent the day at the lake, and the evenings at the van. Nice and simple and just what we wanted.
The campsite was as the previous time and we had a lovely couple of days together and at 5pm on Sunday we said our goodbyes. Her returning to home and me heading in the opposite direction to continue to my next destination.
Part II – Italian Dolomites
Leaving Kärnten late on Sunday afternoon I had quite a lovely drive through East Tyrol to the Italian border at Cillian and then into the Dolomite Mountain range where my first stop was to see the towers of Tre-Chime.
I had a nice plan to park-up at a location where it should have been quiet and hike up to the hut and around the towers the following morning. Wow was I in for a surprise! It’s the second week of September and already off-season with the kids back in school. So I fully expected to only see like minded outdoor enthusiasts and maybe some retired people on tour, but I was not prepared for the sensory onslaught and sheer amount of people on the mountain. I did eventually find a parking place and enjoyed a couple of beers watching Wales win their first game in the World Cup, before going to bed way too late for me and slightly drunk!
Waking early it was full gas to have breakfast, make sandwiches and be on the trail by 7am. But incredibly the toll road was already queuing for over a KM at this time. Fortunately my hiking path took me away from the road and a very pleasant hike through lush forest to the hut. And heres where the fun starts.
I have no actual idea how many cars, vans, campers and buses were parked up there but I have never seen anything like it before. There was also every conceivable person here as well. Everything from flip flops, trainers, sweatpants, jeans, a girl in a dress, the Instagram hunters in full matching luminous gear all the way through to complete winter mountaineering packs. Not to mention the E-bikes, dogs both on lead and being carried in handbags and a Chinese man in full black Burka. Presumably to stop the sun. Quite unreal if you weren’t there. Oh and didn’t I mention the Drones… The F * * * * * G drones! Even though there is a complete ban on them in the national park.
The views up there are quite spectacular in every direction. The mountain range is quite unique from any other with the rock formations giving an incredible vista against the crisp blue morning sky. The weather was just perfect and although it was still relatively early it was getting quite warm. So after a quick sandwich to re-fuel as I had already hiked over 5km, I began the circular walk around the towers so you can get a full idea of how large these rocks are.
The path begins like a road which takes you to the next hut but then its a short climb to the viewing platform from where you get a first glimpse of the 3 towers. It really is an incredible piece of rock and well worth the physical effort of getting there. Or just drive there like everyone else.
As you drop down some meters you get an even better view of the scale of them and as the sun was still behind, a marvellous view of the outline against the blue sky.
From here the main path (basically a road) heads further away to the Instagram photo platform but by this time I had enough of the crowds and took the more difficult path through the boulder field and re-joined the masses again at the next hut before a last gimps of the rocks and returning to the start.
By now it was swarming there with bus fulls of tour groups and the late sleepers. The noise for me was getting too much as a group of 20-30 German Porsche “enthusiasts” were hearing up and down the street showing off their overly priced and quite pointless private parts. So it was time to head back into the forest, eat the rest of my food by a beautiful river and make my way to the van.
I guess you should take the time to visit Tre Chime if you are in the Dolomites as it really is truly magnificent. But if you love nature and peace and quiet. You are going to be very disappointed.
After a shower and a cold beer by a lovely lake I had a couple of hours in the afternoon sun deciding what to do next. And after a nice hot meal with a view I put everything away and was on the road to my next destination.
Lago di Sorapis is probably second behind Tre Chime on the Instagram to do list so I was fully not expecting to be alone there. Nevertheless I took the short evening drive to where I was expecting to park but as per the previous night there was just no chance. I have never seen so many cars and campers on a mountain pass and I have followed the Tour de France many times! So I drove 2 km further to the huge car park of the ski lifts and although there was a lot of construction work going on, had a very peaceful night with a spectacular view from the van window.
Up a tad later than I would have liked due to the previous days energy output and a couple of beers, I was packed and on the trail a little before 8am. The extra couple of km’s done and I was at the trailhead reasonably alone still with just a few people who generally looked like they knew what they were doing.
The trail starts, and indeed continues, in just the most spectacular scenery. The mountains are incredible in every direction which means making progress can be a little disjointed due to all the stopping to look at the views and photo taking. The first sections are through lush forest on easy going paths before it becomes steeper and more technical in places as you get closer to the lake. But easily manageable if you are fit and have a good head for heights as well as sure footing.
The weather once more was perfect with very warm temperatures no wind and blue skies and on reaching the lake these conditions made it look even more picture perfect. I was a little surprised to see the amount of people already hanging around but most I think had been staying at the hut and were viewing it after their breakfast.
I stopped for a while to eat my lunch and take in the surroundings but unfortunately again the peace and tranquility was spoilt by the general loudness of the new generation in such environments, but by far the worst is the constant flying of drones. What an absolute nuisance to the mountaineer and nature lover. The bans and fines should be somehow enforced. But after my lunch I took one last walk around this majestic lake and made my way back down the mountain and back to the van for a welcome shower and food.
It really was a fantastic trail and to have that lake at the end of it a delight. Both Tre Chime and Lago di Sorapis are must sees if you are visiting the Dolomites and are a mountain lover. Just have the patience of a Saint whilst on the trail, even in so called off season.
Over my dinner I could see that the weather was really changing for the worse the next two days so I decided to leave a day earlier than planned and head to the ocean for the next part of the plan.
Part III – Baška or maybe Punat…
It was a beautiful drive down through the Dolomites on a lovely evening. The traffic was kind and even the Highway was no stress all the way to Traviso, even if there was a little anxiety with the fuel range reading zero and me having a further 50km to get to the border with Slovenia for 50 cents a litre cheaper Diesel.
Stress over and as it was still early enough and a lovely evening I decided to continue driving to Croatia and stopped for the night at a lovely spot under the KRK bridge and watched the sunset drop slowly behind the boats in the Harbour.
The next morning was an early start so after a coffee I was on the road down to the south of the island. First stop was to wash the van as it had taken some collateral damage the last weeks driving then to a supermarket just outside Baška where I was very surprised that at 8am they had no fresh produce and very little alcohol. So I just bought the very basics and made my way to Bunculuka camp site a further few minutes down the road and when I arrived I realised why the supermarket was so empty. The place was absolutely rammed.
We both have been going to this camp for many, many years, and I have never failed to get a choice of pitches at any time of the year. But the receptionist said “No” absolutely full, every single pitch taken or reserved and already a queue of vans lined up to take the next one out’s pitch. Just total and utter chaos and a very unpleasant atmosphere everywhere.
So I hung around for a couple of hours, used the showers, took a dip in the amazing ocean and bought some bread from the bakery. Wondered around searching for a place but to no avail. Enough was enough so I returned to the receptionist who could not understand why I was leaving, picked up my passport and was unexpectedly on the road again a lot sooner than I would have liked.
Next on the original plan would have been to go to camp Konobe in Punat which is only 30 minutes drive to the west of the island. There we have also been many times and indeed we got engaged there last May. So after a normal arrival, a choice of nice pitches, and a quick look around, I was already setting up in a beautiful pitch with an amazing view and hopefully not moving for the next week or so.
The rest of the day was spent doing chores that a week on the road and in the mountains catch up on you. Camper service, washing clothes, essential shopping and a clean up of the van so that it was at least respectable for when Leela arrived for the weekend.
I spent the next couple of days in very pleasant weather, running, SUP, listening to music, reading and just hanging around in this incredible location. And when Leela arrived, we done exactly the same. A wonderful time together that went way too quick and a sadness when she had to leave on Sunday evening.
I spent the rest of the week there alone in sometimes nice but mostly bad weather with a very wet font all around. But nevertheless it was very nice just to sit and enjoy the view and do some planning for our Trips in 2024.
Wales is a country with only one true religion, Rugby. I have been a devout follower to this religion my whole life. I grew up in the 70’s when the players were more well known than any Pope would ever be. I was myself a player as a young man before my sporting path took me in a direction where my body type was more suited. But the passion for my local club and the national team still follows me wherever I am travelling or living in the world.
Last year whilst watching the six nations we thought it would be a great opportunity to watch my first live game after moving to Austria (no quality rugby here) as well as Leela’s first game ever and also combine a trip to Rome in the process. Something I had been harping on about the last 8 years!
Getting tickets was a lot more straightforward than trying to buy a ticket for a Cardiff game and after negotiating my way through the Italian website for an hour we had our seat numbers and the tickets had been patiently sat on the shelf for one whole year. Then finally it was time to be on our way and packing the van for the 5 day trip in a freezing Austria we were both very excited to be on the Road to Rome.
The drive there is very tedious. 800 km of just motorway and as we had only time for Rome and not to detour through the wonderful surrounding countryside we bit of a large chunk on a Wednesday evening, had a very disruptive night in a motorway gas station, and a very early start to arrive at our camp site before 12:00 on Thursday.
Just one word on the driving – Chaos. The Italians in general do not know how to drive and have Zero respect for any other road users. But in Rome it’s a whole new level of absurdness. Overtaking, undertaking, speeding, mobile phone use whilst smoking or doing their make-up, and the use of the horn if they think you are taking just one single second out of their drive is phenomenal.
Camping Village Flaminio is around 8 km from the centre of Rome and with the off season Acsi card is fairly reasonable for what it is. Clean-ish, small pitches, unfriendly receptionists, toilets and showers work-ish, and as a bonus you do get classical music pumping out at full volume whilst you shower! But you are ultimately there for the location rather than the hospitality. And after a terrifying 500m walk with no crossings or pavement to the train station which looked like something from the Bronx in the 70’s. It’s only a 20 minute ride to town.
We had both been to Rome before independently, Leela 23 years ago and me 11 years ago. So we were very much looking forward to sharing the experience together. And on the Wednesday afternoon we set off from the camp site on a 3 day expedition covering nearly 90 km by foot from one end of the city to the other and everywhere in between. We checked out all the famous sites from the Pantheon which is probably both our favourite building, the Spanish steps, the Trevi fountain, the Colosseum, St. Peters, and nearly every Roman ruin and park that is in the city. Returning to the van late each night hungry and exhausted but yet still full of energy after the amazing days experiences. The only thing we were unable to view was the Vatican as there were no tickets available and on Saturday we were unable to go because it was game day!
And to the game… We were excited to wake on Saturday morning especially when we saw that the weather forecast was over 20 degrees and sunny. And after a large breakfast we ran the gauntlet to the train station and soon we were in town and greeted by a sea of red and a lot of familiar accents. We spent most of the morning just wondering the streets and taking in the lovely atmosphere that only an international rugby match can bring. So many red jerseys, dragons, daffodils and general all round positivity, excitement and laughter. At midday we left the centre, bought a couple of cold ones, and made our way across the bridge to the Castle gardens where we sat in spring sunshine eating our packed lunch and enjoying a cold Peroni.
As the fans started to make their way toward the stadium we joined them for the hours walk along the river. It’s really amazing to see how much support we have for our national team and how many will travel from such a small country and at such expense, it felt like half of Wales were on their way to the game.
When we arrived at the main entry way to the stadium it was clear that it would be a sell-out crowd. The noise was building, the street vendors making a roaring trade and the supporters of both teams mixing together without a single issue. Such a difference from going to watch a soccer match. There is a different mindset in the rugby world.
After some very light security checks we were finally inside the ground and after buying a couple of overpriced beers which just had to be done we were at our quite fantastic seats on the 22 and enjoying the Italian hospitality and sunshine. The stadium, although at capacity of 75 thousand, seemed quite small to me. It was for sure very pretty inside and the blue sky enhanced the experience no end, but it didn’t seem to be that loud either and the noise escaped very easily, not really like a game in Cardiff. But when your home stadium is known as being the best in the world, I guess you are somewhat spoilt.
As kickoff approached Leela was really beginning to enjoy her first rugby experience. She was a little apprehensive at first as she, like me, does not like to be in the presence of large crowds. But it was such a nice and relaxed atmosphere with respect being shown by both sets of fans, so it was easy to enjoy. The game turned out really well, for Wales anyway, and the match went by so fast we lost track. The players walked the pitch at full time and gave the respect back to the travelling fans which is always a nice gesture win or lose. Then we made our way back to town with the thousands and we had a final couple of beers whilst sitting on the fountain of the Piazza del Popolo and talking of such a wonderful Rome experience.
We made our way back to the train and the van whilst the rest of the fans were making their way to the centre for what I am sure was a night filled with singing and maybe a few beers.
Leaving the next day was tough as it was now 23 degrees and full spring sunshine and warmth. This time we were unable to extend our stay, but we knew that soon we would be on the road again.
For Christmas and New Year we both had time for a longer holiday so we decided on a tour of Tuscany in Italy. Although Leela had spent a lot of time there in the past for me it was a region that I had somehow missed. I don’t quite know why as it was absolutely incredible.
The van was now ready for winter and colder travel with the last of the piping and electrical modifications completed a few days before. So after going to the Auto wash for an hour and removing the 2 inches of ice from the roof and solar panels which had built up we were ready to load up and leave the snow and freezing conditions of Austria.
As we headed out late in the afternoon of December 23rd we first had to negotiate the snowy motorway toward the Italian border. And as the temperature gauge slowly climbed above freezing we left the high mountains in the rear view and began our journey south. First past Venice in the setting sun, then Bologna, before the crazy holiday traffic built up as we approached Florence. Which was fine as this was where we were making our first stop at Lago di Bilancino. And after a quite chaotic stop in the local store we were at our destination lake side around 9pm.
Not wanting to fill the boiler water system before leaving for fear of freezing I bled the hot and cold on arrival to find a small leak in my new valve system. A panic filled 30 minutes later and all was fixed and it just turned out to be that I had not tightened the valve clips up enough.
Arriving late and leaving early did not give us a chance to explore the area but the views looked great and I am sure a nice place to visit again. But this time we had a whole lot more interesting things on our list.
San Gimignano
First was a drive to San Gimignano, a truly wonderful hill-top town famous for its four towers. After finally finding a parking place that could fit the van in such tight surroundings we spent a lovely morning exploring, drinking coffee, and enjoying delicious croissants in this idyllic town.
Then later in the afternoon we drove to our destination for Christmas which was a lovely park-up at the foot of Monteriggioni. And after a quick walk round the village which doesn’t take long as its only a couple of hundred meters wide we went for a run in the local woods before watching the sunset from our perfect vantage point.
Siena
Waking early on Christmas morning to a beautiful blue sky and crisp day we exchanged a few wonderful gifts, had a large breakfast, and then took our bikes on the 20 km ride through the back roads to Siena.
Parking the bikes directly in Piazza del Campo we had a lovely few hours exploring the town, eating the most amazing pistachio croissant, and laying in the square soaking in the Italian Christmas atmosphere in the warm sun. Hard to believe that they hold a crazy horse race here. Getting back to the van at sunset we got cleaned up and had some perfectly cooked hamburgers for our Christmas dinner.
Gladiator
Boxing day we left and drove the chianti road stopping in Radda for a walk around then in a hillside lay-by for the perfect pasta lunch with amazing views.
Back on the road south with a stop at the delightful hilltop town of Montalcino, then a stop at Russel Crowes house in Gladiator, and finally the most idyllic park-up we have ever had, smack bang in the middle of the most photographed landscape in perhaps all of Italy.
We enjoyed a perfect sunset, a quiet night, and an even more perfect sunrise. The morning light filtering through the mist that was holding to the incredible landscape with Cyprus and Pine trees lining the horizon in every direction. A landscape photographer’s dream location.
Bagni San Fillipo
After breakfast was a short drive to the first of two natural hot-springs we would visit in succession. Bagni San Fillipo is a series of hillside pools surrounded by forest. Its mostly visited by locals for its so called healing properties and flies a little under the radar. At this time of year it was very quiet and we were able to enjoy one pool just to ourselves. It was quite wet and dirty getting to the pools but once in, the water was nearly 40°C and very difficult to get out of again! After a couple of lovely hours there we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and made the drive through the countryside to our next overnight stop at Saturnia.
Saturnia
Saturnia is a spa town which has been inhabited, as most towns in this region have, since ancient times. Its most famous for its sulphurous hot-spring pools which cascade at the side of an abandoned mill. These pools hold water at around 37°C and are formed by the deposition of calcareous rock from the evaporation of the water under the gushing waterfall. Its really a spectacular sight and a joy to just lie in for much longer than is probably recommended!
The van park was quite dilapidated with very uneven access, a sanitary area that really needs an upgrade and a camper service that needed to be condemned. But it served a purpose even at a high price and as it was the only park-up within reasonable walking distance.
Arriving late in the afternoon we went immediately to the pools and were a little surprised to find it completely full. It’s an incredible natural phenomenon and still free to access so it has continuous traffic through the day. And although we enjoyed it, there were far too many people for us so we went back to the van and enjoyed a sunset meal and an early night.
The next morning we were already back at the pools before sunrise which seemed to be the perfect time for us as there were only 2 other people there for the next 60 minutes. We enjoyed a wonderful time jumping between the pools and being pounded by the waterfalls. We were already making our way back for breakfast and smelling of sulphur before the masses had even opened their eyes.
Later that morning we took the bikes out to explore the countryside on a track found on my usual app for such things. Normally these tracks are pretty accurate but this time after a lovely start on hard packed farm tracks the route we wanted to take had been locked shut. So after checking the map there seemed to be a very short work around which involved crossing a field and a river before returning to path on the other side. Easy…
This however turned out to be the most challenging couple of hours for both of us. The river crossing was fine. Indeed quite exciting as it was a run-off from the pools and thus still hot. But then we found ourselves in the most horrific wet mud that was impossible to ride over or indeed even push the bikes. Include the sound of gunfire going off all around us by the local boar hunters and this provided a torturous hour before we reached the original intended path which was less than one km away.
After getting there and the bikes now completely inoperable, we found a small stream and spent the next hour trying to clean them to a point where they would be ridable again. This felt like it took forever and by the time we reached the asphalt once more we were both pretty exhausted and very hungry. So we just made our way back on the road to the park-up, cleaned the bikes and us both the best we could with a hose pipe, and just had some lunch. The longest 13 km bike ride of my life! At sunset we went back to the pools, but once again it was too full for us so we decided just to call it a night.
The following day we went again at dawn and found ourselves completely alone there and once again were able to enjoy all the pools and waterfalls naked. We stayed for a long time before breakfast and clearing the sulphur from our bodies at the park-up showers and then were once again on the road to our destination for New Year.
Assisi
Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis the shared patron saint of Italy. The town is of high religious significance not only for Italians but to all followers around the globe. And even for two complete Atheists like ourselves it holds a lot of interest.
The hillside town really is quite the spectacle and after arriving through the valley we made our way to the quite delightful hillside campsite situated only a couple of km’s walk away. This campsite was pretty much empty when we arrived and we had the pick of the plots so we chose a perfect position with views through the trees over the valley and walked into town to explore.
Assisi really has a lot going on. From its labyrinth of tiny streets, wonderful artisan shops selling everything from exquisite jewellery, fresh foods, handmade art supplies, all the way through to every conceivable piece of tat that your average religious nut job could dream of. And after a lot of exploring, visiting the castle, and doing some photography, we eventually arrived at the church.
Now normally you wouldn’t get me within a mile of a church door but Leela being an artist and student of the Italian greats got me inside to look at the world renowned frescos. And I must say I was incredibly impressed how these masterpieces had stood the test of a 1000 years.
Putting the slavery, pain, hardship and general horrific abuse that the church/rich inflicted on the normal person to create these wonders, it was quite a marvel. The ability to create such buildings, carvings and paintings in that time and with the tools on offer is quite mind blowing. And it was a joy to see Leela appreciating these frescos from the ability and perspective of their creators.
Returning to the camp in the early evening we were greeted by a now constant flow of Italian campervans making their way in. The campsite had a limit of 50 according to their information but by late evening they were well past that number and waking up on New Year’s Eve there were vans crammed in every conceivable space which made us very nervous and claustrophobic.
So by mid morning we were out on the bikes and high on the mountainside forest roads in peace and quiet and far away from the noise and mass crowds. Knowing we would have to experience it again soon, we reluctantly made our way back, got cleaned up, and walked into town just as the sun was setting giving us a much better show than any fireworks could.
We enjoyed a glass of wine in the square as they prepared for the nights entertainment and then made our way back to the van as everyone else was making their way out. We spent New Year’s Eve in our own little world, had a few drinks and watched the fireworks from our high vantage point over the valley.
Rimini
The following morning we were up and on the road early. We had to get out of the campsite before the now packed site began to surface. There must have been over a 100 vans in there and the chaos to get out would have taken hours. So leaving the hillside morning sunshine we drove down into the valley fog not knowing that we wouldn’t see the blue sky again for the rest of our trip.
We headed east towards the coast with a first stop at Portonovo which is situated in the del Conero national park. It turned out to be a bit of a strange place. Untidy, littered, and it was made much worse by the thick fog. But we had a walk on the beach and it was nice to be at the ocean again.
The next day we drove to Rimini, but once again the thick fog spoiled the drive and the beach. So we walked around the old town which was nice and the beach front which was terrible and after an evening and following morning beach run, we continued north wishing we had gone south!
Delta del Po
Next stop was at the Delta del Po nature reserve. We stayed here last November and had a lovely time and thoroughly enjoyed the peace and nature (diary entry). We chose a different park-up this time at the end of an island and the peace in the late afternoon listening to the birds was magical, if only we could have seen them through the fog.
We were having a restful night there until around 4:30 am when a couple of cars arrived and 6 or 7 men were out in the pitch dark looking for something in the long grass all around us. This freaked us out somewhat and kept our attention until daybreak when we felt a little more at ease. That was until they started unloading their guns on whatever poor defenceless animal they were hunting. So it was time to leave this wonderful environment when we still had a full list of working parts.
Caorle
Last stop on our trip was Caorle but once more we had wished we had just stayed in Tuscany. A built up holiday town filled to the brim with people that we had spent the last 2 weeks trying our best to avoid. It was nice to see such places but they hold no interest to us. And we would never visit there in the summer months. But it was nice to take a walk on the beach at sunset and enjoy an early morning run before leaving for home.
A truly amazing Christmas and New Year trip. Tuscany is a region we would gladly re-visit and recommend to everyone. An astonishing landscape to be enjoyed by nature and photography lovers.
A happy new year to everyone and best wishes from us both for the coming years travel and adventure.
Austria was already retreating into winter. Late November and the cold, rain and daily fog was rolling in right on time. The locals begin to disappear into their homes and the general mood of living in this area starts to wear us down. So as it was Leela’s birthday it was a great excuse to get out of town.
It just so happened that over this weekend there was a band of very good weather in the Veneto region of Italy. And as Leela loves all things Italian, we decided to drive to Venice the night before and park up in the Camper park just outside of town again.
If you read the post on our previous trip to Venice in the summer (read diary entry here) you will know that this park is not the best. And staying there again we found that nothing had changed. In fact it had got worse as in addition to the other issues, there was now no hot water in the mens showers! But anyway… Location, location, location…
Venice
Waking early on a beautiful crisp morning we shared a coffee in bed when birthday girl opened her card and presents. Got showered in the Van! and were already on the road to Venice as the sun was rising over the city.
We went first of course for a coffee and a filled to the brim Cornetto. An absolute must to start a day in Venice. Then a long walk around town before taking a look at the hustle and bustle of the fish and groceries market. Then it was off to the church for a look around when it was still reasonably quiet. This is quite a magnificent structure which, as all of Venice is, under attack from the rising tides. And although we are both neither religions, have any faith in that respect or indeed even like the church, you still have to admire the incredible work and detail that went into its construction. Although when looking at such structures our minds and thoughts always go back to the thousands of people that were slaves and worked and died to build these masterpieces.
After the church, and as it was fast approaching lunchtime, we were on our way to find a restaurant. We had already planned her birthday lunch in advance which was to be a small ethnic place employing chefs from all over Africa and eastern Europe with dishes from every culture available.
We were recommended this place after watching Stanley Tucci’s searching for Italy TV show. We really love the series and it showcases all that is good in Italian scenery, food and culture. However nearly every place he goes to has a Michelin star or is just so exclusive and expensive that we could not even consider stepping foot inside. But this one, The Orient Experience, was just on our budget limit. So we had planned to go there as a birthday treat and see if Tucci actually knew what he was talking about!
The options are incredibly varied and we opted for the full 5 dish menu and some midday wine. The food turned out to be really very nice and such a change for us after eating the exceptionally bland food of Austria. We really miss the variety of eating options available to us where we live as they just do not embrace other cultures. And although we travel a lot to Italy and south through Croatia, these types of food or indeed any Asian options are not available unless you cook them yourself. And we thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant and food on offer and would recommend it to anyone travelling in Venice and wanting to try something different.
As we were leaving it began to fill up and the manager told us that at peak times they were now requiring reservations. But even though they have all this new exposure, they are managing to keep their prices reasonable. For now at least anyway.
After such a huge meal we needed a walk and as the sun was now shining we took a route along the seafront and sat for a while on a dockside cafe to enjoy the atmosphere and a white wine. But soon we were off again around the city. Small alley ways, back streets, boutiques and then a boat trip up the grand canal to its final stop. This was really nice as we got to see the city from a completely different perspective on the water.
As it was now already getting dark and we were getting exhausted, there was just time for a short walk to see the evening lights, a stop in the most incredible supermarket we had ever seen (architecturally speaking) for a bottle of wine and then the bus ride back to the park up. And after a short walk through the local park we were sat in our favourite home and enjoying the wine.
The following morning we took an early run in the crisp seaside air around the wonderful park that is behind the camping. They really have done a great job there stopping this prime land from being turned into business opportunities and laying out a network of running and cycle paths through the greenery together with sport facilities and cafes. A real escape from what is around it. And after a shower and breakfast we were heading south with some co-ordinates punched in the navi to a place we knew nothing about.
Delta del Po
Around an hour or so directly south of Venice there is an area called Delta del Po. Both of us have travelled extensively through Italy but for some reason this particular region had passed us by. It is a very flat wetland nature reserve with a vast amount of Islands and inland waterways, sometimes linked, sometimes not, by small roads and bridges. And as we really had no idea of what to expect or do we decided upon a park up near a sea side restaurant for the first night that that was recommended as being safe and relatively quiet.
After a chaotic drive and a stop in the most amazing of supermarkets, which just had everything you could possibly want and still at a price you could actually afford, we arrived in the nature reserve to be greeted by stormy weather and wonderful dramatic views. The car park was exactly as described and although it was now already deep into the afternoon we unloaded the bikes and set off on a round trip of this small island.
As you set off north the first thing you encounter is the giant skeleton of an old factory that is in the process of being demolished. The tall chimney visible from everywhere on the peninsula. Following a very nice farmers path brings you around to an area of woodland where masses of birds are flying in great flocks across the neighbouring wetland. And as a bonus the sun was setting lighting up the sky in a glorious pastel scene. On our return leg, we encountered a flock of sheep being herded by a Shepard and his dog back to their resting place for the evening. A really lovely ride even if in a little cold and damp weather.
Back at the van it was time to shower and cook our fresh burgers that we had picked up on the way down. Sharing a beer and catching up on how Wales had done in the World Cup soccer during the day. But that hadn’t gone any where near as good as our day had been!
The following morning we woke to a big thunderÂstorm all around. It was a wonderful view over the ocean with a dramatic skyline. It also helped to clear the air and opened the weather up for a beautiful couple of days ahead.
The main reason to come to this area for us was to see the birds, wildlife and especially we wanted to see the pink Flamingos that lived in the region. So we drove to the entrance of Isola Albarella and parked the van. I say entrance because this island is gated with restrictive access for residents and holidaymakers. We were unaware of such a place and was obviously a rich persons retreat complete with very nice holiday homes laid out in a manner that reminded us both very much of Florida, including a private golf course and an expansive beach area.
But what was amazing is that it was nearly completely deserted. As we cycled around we were literally the only people there and it was so strange with deer just walking the streets. Almost like you were in the film Legend. Quite strange but a very nice ride nonetheless.
Going off the island and into the wetlands we saw our first flamingos. Literally loads of them standing and feeding and being quite talkative but unfortunately a little too far away to get a good view.
After the ride we made our way to a park-up we had seen that looked very nice situated on a thin stretch of road linking 2 islands, with the ocean on one side and wetland on the other. We had a wonderful sunset and a cold, clear night with millions of stars illuminating an evening walk. Quite magical.
The next morning we woke to a cold and sunny day and as we drove out of the wetlands we were fortunate to come across a flock of Flamingo’s very close to the road feeding in the morning sun. A lovely ending to our time there.
We had one last stop to make before heading home and that was to visit Chioggia. It was quite a charming town with a Venetian layout and a bustling main square where we enjoyed a coffee and some fresh “very good” cookies which the waiter was excited to give us. We sat in the midday sun soaking up the crazy Italian Sunday atmosphere.
A completely wonderful birthday weekend and a new area of Italy that we thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
Cold, rain, wind, and the heating switched back on. Yep, late autumn was here again! This time of year normally makes for a great holiday to the ocean. The children are back in school and Croatia is usually still very warm. But this year the weather, and I think the whole world, is a bit messed up. The forecast for Croatia was pretty bad but the band of weather seemed to be tracking through central Europe and to the West looked much better. So we packed up and made our way to Leela’s most favourite place, Venice.
After a long time on increasingly expensive highways through Italy we arrived at our parking for the weekend just outside the city. This place came recommended but unfortunately let us down over the weekend. Full of trash, sanitary services in bad need of repair as well as being filthy. No hot water for showers and the camper service quite unpleasant to say the least! The price did not justify the facilities but as we were just sleeping there and it was a reasonable walk to public transport, we kept quiet. Although the general disgusting mess of trash and facilities is down a long way to the people who were actually staying there also.
On Friday night we had a huge storm pass through which certainly kept us entertained whilst making the camp even more filthy but by morning it had already passed and with the forecast for sunshine after lunch we were off to catch the bus into the city.
I had been to Venice once before but a very long time ago so I had absolutely no idea of where to go or what to do but fortunately I was with my own private guide who knew the city inside out. This knowledge came from working in the Guggenheim for many years and then spending countless trips and time in the city.
First thing was to stop at her favourite cafe for a filled cornetto and coffee. This is an essential start for a day in Venice as they take their cafe’s quite seriously and it was very much enjoyed. The whole ambience of the place just oozed elegance and the choices too numerous to pick. So I just left it up to her and wolfed down a couple of hot filled croissants.
Then we were off… A full day of wondering the maze of tiny streets looking at the splendour of the vast St. Marco square and pretty much every single bridge in town. She told me that it was tradition to kiss on every bridge. But I’m not so sure that was the case and just an excuse to make out constantly through the day…
The city really is incredible. Just total and utter chaos. But somehow it seems to work and move and breath in perfect harmony with the environment, culture and history. We walked literally for hours taking in all the major attractions before stopping for a well earned wine and pizza and then enjoyed a slower afternoon in and around all the less troden back streets before buying a couple of cans of Sardinian lager and sitting on her favourite quiet dock of the Grand Canal to watch the sun set. After a short walk back to central station we were back on the bus after dark to our trash scattered camp site!
The next day we were up and out before any of the tourists and already in town as the waitress was taking the fresh and hot pastries out of the oven. A couple of coffees later and we were walking through the empty streets and getting ready for a full day at the Bienalle. An art exhibition and installation that runs every two years and attracts the worlds best artists and a whole lot of extra visitors to the city.
First was the historic Pavilions at the Giardini. A collection of buildings each hosting an artists installation from a specific country. From Brazil to Russia, everyone was there. Except Wales of course and now you mention it, Russia wasn’t given a spot either in view of what was going on.
For me it was interesting. I had no real idea of what to look for but just enjoyed the things that made me happy. Some were downright awful and made no sense as well as looking like a 5 year old had been let loose with some lego. And the less said about the so called British (English) entry the better. Just the noise of some warbling bint in a room of no presence.Anyway I was quite taken by the Korean (south) entry and especially liked the French’s take on old cinematography which probably ranked first in my eyes. The Austrian installation was downright disastrous and only just finishing one step above England at the bottom of the pile. Both being beaten by the empty house of Russia.
This tour took us well toward midday and we decided on a liquid lunch of what seemed to be the favoured drink of the city and one I had never had before, an Aperole Spritz. I would love to say I enjoyed it as much as Leela but it was too sweet for me. Nevertheless it was quite enjoyable in our current surroundings.
Heading toward the main hall to the exhibition entitled “The Milk of Dreams” we were not quite sure of what to expect. It turned out to be pretty much a 90 minute horror show. Lots of death, destruction, dismembered bodies and torture. Not exactly what I had hoped for my first ‘art’ experience. Even Leela was a little put off by some of the works. But we soldiered through and were both delighted by a few pieces that were intermingled amongst the horror.
It was now definitely time to set out for some lunch before heading to the venue for the afternoon at the second part of the exhibition held at the Arsenale.
This is a really impressive old dock yard where many of the huge ships were built through the years. Now the buildings have been renovated and are home to some very large installations. After roaming through each of these for a long time, except for Venices own entry as the queue was ridiculous, we saw a lot of art that was certainly quite subjective, and a lot where the majesty of the building well out shadowed what was placed in it. But there were a few lovely pieces and works and as we were now getting pretty worn out we decided it was time to give our eyes, and my brain, a rest and head to the shoreline for some fresh air. Stopping for a couple of cans of our new favourite Sardinian beer we perched ourselves on a bench and watched the most incredible sunset over the Venetian rooftops and towers. Quite a beautiful end to the day.
At dusk we made our way through the quiet backstreets and back to the bus station for our packed bus ride back to the camp. The end to a perfect and very memorable weekend in Venice. Who knew it was such a beautiful city!
