Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Category: France

Cap d’Agde

Leaving the disappointment of Provence behind, we headed south in search of the ocean, sandy beaches and days filled with endless sunshine. And hopefully no wind…

From Aix we drove to the coast at Martigues and finally had some sunshine and a nice beach where we took a walk along the beautifully rugged coastline and laid in the sun finally. Unfortunately even though it was warm enough the wind was still howling which made everything uncomfortable but we made the most of the day. Deciding to move on early the next morning we drove on to the real south of France to begin our adventure.

Arriving at Le Grau-du-Roi we found the camper park full and complete chaos with road closures and cars everywhere. So we drove out of town and found a nice quiet spot next to a canal and read later that the chaos was due to a Bull run that was going around the town later that day. So we had some lunch and then took the bikes in search of a long sandy beach and we finally found what we were searching for and the weather to go with it.

L’Espiguette

L’Espiguette naturist beach is more than 10 km long with the western side being clothing and the more remote eastern side being Naturist. After a decent walk from the parking lot where we left the bikes we found a nice spot out of the wind and enjoyed a few hours on this beautiful beach. Laying there on a busy Sunday we were confused with the constant stream of men walking by with extreme purpose. It really was quite amazing.

Every 30 seconds or so they would stream by with their focus concentrating on the distance. After some google work we did find out that the far end of the beach, which was fortunately out of sight, was a gay and swingers beach, and Sunday was most definitely the day for gay swinging apparently!

We were just glad that they were walking past us with only a few stopping within a few meters of us to “re-arrange” themselves. Theres nothing I can really say but its just a shame that these men cant control themselves and are ruining true naturist locations for others. But we had a wonderful time in the sun finally and after making our way back to the van and getting cleaned up we headed out to see if we could find some Bulls in town!

The ride in was nice in the evening sun but unfortunately with the road closures and masses of people it was impossible to get around on the bikes to where the action was. So we ended up sitting on the beach watching our first real sunset of the trip before heading back.

After another nice and windy day at the beach watching the men marching by and a couple openly having sex a few meters away from us, we decided we had had enough and headed back to move on, knowing that our next experience was going to be even stranger but at least we knew before hand what we were getting into to!

Driving south we eventually passed through the complicated roads of Montpellier and headed to the infamous town of cap d’Agde and the Naturist camping of Rene Oltra.

Cap d’Agde

Getting to the campsite was the first problem. We had to park the van at the heavily secured entry gates, then walk the few hundred meters to the campsite, then book in, then return to the gates, then go to a different office to purchase a totally unnecessary village entry card which is an incredible money maker, and then drive back to the campsite before being allowed to go to our pitch. This process took the best part of two hours and we were frustrated that we were loosing the best part of the days sunshine. But eventually we were on our way to the beach.

I had heard and read a lot about this place over the years and also watched a few videos on Porn Hub showing the goings on, but sometimes you just have to experience things for yourself. The beach directly outside the camp is, in relation to everywhere else, completely empty! Its lovely, sandy, quiet and a very nice naturist beach to enjoy the sun and swim in the calm ocean. And after a few hours we we were ready to take a look around.

First, walking east on this incredible beach and as soon as the campsite ends, you begin to see the other side of humans. After the bar it goes from people sunbathing about 15 meters apart and minding their own business to literally thousands of people laying towel to towel with no room for a fag paper between them. Its quite amazing and very surreal. Complete strangers within touching distance just staring at each others genitals.

There were many having oral sex, many (and only) men openly masturbating and then there were the women with groups of fat men standing in a circle pleasuring themselves over them. All in public, all with no worries about the police and with all the people around filming them. Pretty strange and somewhat pathetic times we live in…

Moving back up the beach there was again more calm with only a few blow jobs to navigate through and then the beach bars before you get to the towns main access roads. It was actually quite nice to be able to walk naked through the streets and bars and something that is not completely new to us, but the really odd thing is that all the shops and markets are located under the apartment complexes and are dark and narrow. There are sex shops and strip clubs next to supermarkets and hairdressers. There are people selling flip-flops on one rack and butt plugs on the next. It’s all just odd, but if you accept it, it is quite amusing.

We enjoyed three nights in the very well equipped campsite and beautiful beach in complete peace and quiet. The sun shone through the days and we could swim and sunbathe without being bothered by anyone. Actually the safest and unbothered we had been so far on the trip. They were all being kept amused by more interesting goings on further down the beach!

We walked along the beach and witnessed the exhibitionism whilst staying at a very safe distance and walked around the village during the day for a bit of fun and enjoyed shopping naked. We didn’t go out after dark and just enjoyed the van so we cant comment on the nocturnal activities of the place but apparently they are even more odd. And at the van, the nights were very quiet and peaceful.

It is in general a very strange place but as a Naturist somewhere that can be experienced safely without having to be part of the nonsense going on. Honestly for us, we would for sure go back as we surprisingly really enjoyed. The camp is better and cheaper than most in Croatia and France, the facilities are excellent, it is spotlessly clean and it’s amazingly quiet and completely safe. The beach directly outside is also amazing, clean and family friendly with calm water to swim. A real naturist paradise. The rest of the nonsense you can take or leave. Its your choice after all…

21/09/2024
Provence

Cold, wet, windy, unfriendly and frustrating. Not words that I was hoping to describe this beautiful region of France. But unfortunately the truth of our time there.

After a busy and adventurous two weeks alone hiking and biking through the Italian Alps I finally picked Leela up from Milan airport and we made our way to Provence to look forward to some relaxed time in amazing weather and equally amazing naturist camps.

First we visited le Petit Arlane near the small town of Valensole. The day we arrived the weather was decent and still warm but then things started to immediately unravel. We had a stormy night with heavy rain but nothing that was alarming and in the morning having breakfast whilst in the van, we heard a loud crack and looked out to see that the very expensive Thule awning had collapsed. On closer inspection we saw that the support leg had completely sheared off and the awning had dropped and in doing so bent the upper swing arm and sheared off the roof mounted connection. Quite a feat in itself to cause so much damage and thus rendering it completely useless.

The rest of the day was spent trying somehow to retract it back and make it safe to drive and then beginning the insurance claim and source a replacement somewhere along our travel plan. A lot of stress that we could really have done without…

We left that campsite immediately the following day as the people working there were just unhelpful, unpleasant and the camp not much better. We booked online at Naturist Camping Verdon for a few nights as we thought we would have more chance of a replacement if we headed south and after a decent drive and arriving in very windy conditions the receptionist said that they were full. Explaining that we had booked online and had a confirmation did not move her and in a very polite yet completely arrogant manner told us to bugger off. So another unfriendly French campsite owner.

After another re-think we drove back up to les Lauzons naturist campsite after calling and reserving first and arrived whilst everything was shut for a very extended lunch. Waiting patiently we were eventually taken to a terrible pitch whilst perfectly nice ones stood vacant and told that was all they had. Take it or leave it. A pattern was developing here, was it our Austrian number plate? Surely not.

So we parked and then found out that there was absolutely ZERO phone or internet in the whole camp unless you bought their satellite wifi at a cost. Normally this would be perfect for us but as we were waiting for phone calls and E-mails to organise the insurance and replacement awning this was a large problem. I did manage to receive an email on their terrible wifi to say a company could fit a new awning the following day so we just spent a few hours at the camp and left once more first thing in the morning feeling let-down now by three different sites in the area.

Having the awning fitted the next day where the workers took very little care of our beloved home, we were able to take a short hike around the very nice Pénitents mountains. A strange stone outcrop appearing out of nowhere which has quite a tough and exposed circular walk up and over the top of them. And finally after some decent exercise we felt much better and spent the night in the ghost town of Malijai where we had a quiet evening by the river.

The next day we drove south, hopefully for the last time, and found a naturist camp just outside the Provence Capitol of Aix. It was rustic, natural, very unkempt and the owners were already D-mob happy as they were closing the camp in a few days. Thus they were also very unhelpful, although polite at least, with little facilities open and no provisions or food on offer. They even laughed at us when we asked for a Pizza from the flyer on the desk. But we had 3 nights there in vicious cold and wind and completely unable to enjoy the camp or surrounding countryside.

We tried our best to ride to Aix and take a tour nearby but the constant 70 kph winds were just battering us and the van relentlessly. We even tried to go in the pool but that was pointless and going to the shower was like taking a walk in the Artic so we mainly just hid from the terrible weather unable to enjoy any of the delights of the area.

We were dreaming of two weeks of beautiful Provence sunshine, lavender, naturism, bike rides and laying by the pool. But instead we got one week of stress, problems, atrocious weather and very unhelpful and arrogant campsite owners. Thanks Provence, that was not what we were expecting. Maybe we will have better luck next time.

17/09/2024
Nouvelle – Aquitaine

Leaving Paris we had a nightmare with the Sat-Nav. In all fairness it was the first time in a month it completely let us down and we spent a frustrating hour or so just getting to the outskirts of the City. But once we had changed a few settings that had mysteriously reset themselves we were back on track and driving through beautiful French countryside.

We stayed for a few days just outside Orleans where I managed to fix a few things in the van, repair the break in attempt, make a new shelf, and repair the bathroom door! We also found some new sport/hiking shoes for Leela as I had managed to leave them behind. We took some walks as well as a wonderful day out on the bikes to Château de Chambord along the Loire.

Driving on wonderful roads towards Limoges we pulled off to visit the WW2 War memorial at Oradour-sur-Glane where the camper aire was closed for repair so we continued to the next village to spend the night.

Returning the next morning we were the first people into the memorial which was in itself quit a sombre experience. It really is a horrific story and tragic to think that this could have taken place and also how such events are still happening today. Nevertheless a worthy tribute to those who perished unnecessarily.

Having some beautiful Croissants and a coffee cheered us up somewhat and we were back in the van and heading south for the Caves of Lascaux. We wanted to visit here for Leela to see the caves and the beginning of Art in our world but after getting there and speaking to reception we were put off spending a lot of money. There was only one English tour a day, too much tacky props, and in the end it was to see what was only a replica of the original anyway!

So after some thought Leela decided that she would learn enough from art books and we took the bikes out instead for a great tour around the local historic countryside and after a shower made our way west toward Bordeaux and the ocean.

The following morning we drove around Bordeaux and on to Cap Ferret staying in a really beautiful free municipal aire only a few hundred meters from the incredible beach of Grand Crohot. We were so excited to be at the ocean again and in the first warm weather of our trip so we left the van, packed a baguette, and headed straight out for the day.

The photos of this area did not disappoint and after getting on the beach we headed north for a few km walking the expansive beach with amazing soft sand and surrounded by dunes as far as you could see in both directions. Finding a nice spot out of the wind on the naturist beach Plage de la Jenny we settled down and just enjoyed this incredible environment for the rest of the day. Eating our packed lunch, Leela done some yoga, and I went for a dip in the still very cold Atlantic ocean.

Walking back late in the day we showered at the van and wanted to head back to the beach for sunset but as we were both quite tired from the fresh ocean air and from walking over 10km on soft sand we just had some wine and called it a night!

The next day we were fresh and up early for a long run along the coast before breakfast and spent the day the same as the last on the beach. But as later in the afternoon the weather was turning a little we walked even further down the coastline before returning to the van.

After another quiet night we decided as the weather was getting colder again to move on to Bordeaux. We stayed a couple of nights at the Village camping just outside the city and rode the bikes into the centre for a look around. It was quite a charming place and if the weather were a little better would have been nice to hang around but with heavy rain forecast we made our way back along the Dordogne and back to the camp.

We had planned at least another week in the area before we had to return home but as the weather forecast was absolutely terrible and our plans only included lying on the beach we decided to make our way back across the country and home a little earlier for springtime in Austria. After all it was only a few months before we would be heading out again!

31/03/2024
Paris

Returning to Europe we decided as the winds were so high and the channel forecast was rough to say the least, that we would pay the extra and take the tunnel for the first time ever. It was really expensive at double the cost but we were very impressed with the ease of boarding and how quick it was without any of the stress of travelling by ferry. And as we were very early there they allowed us free of extra charge to board the next train. And before we had time to clean the van we were already in France!

Stopping for a failed attempt to fill the LPG put us back a little and as it had been a long day we decided to pull off the Motorway and find a quiet park-up after about an hour heading south. The following morning we were on the road early and entering the outskirts of Paris at late morning. Driving in the city was crazy but after an hour or so we were at Paris City Camp and having some lunch and a shower before heading out in search of the city.

Our first attempt at leaving the site was thwarted by a storm of large proportions which drowned us only a few hundred meters from the van and sent us scurrying back for a coffee and shelter. But after a short wait we were off again for the walk through the Parc du Bois and on to the Avenue Foch which led straight to the Arc de Triomphe.

An impressive sight we stayed a short while before walking the Champs Élysées before reaching the Place de la Concorde and then on to the Pyramide du Louvre. The weather was being kind so we continued on to the Notre Dame Cathedral before heading through the back streets of the colourful Latin Quarter, Pantheon and finally to the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel. Stopping on the way for a bottle of French white wine and taking a couple of Espresso cups from Starbucks to drink it from!

Reaching the park we took a seat with a view and enjoyed our wine as dusk came watching with amazement as the tower lit up in stages before it was completely dark and this incredible structure stood magnificent with all its dress lights. Reluctantly leaving as it was getting cold and we had also run out of wine, we headed for the bridge north and to our bus stop for the ride home which was pretty smooth, getting back to the van as the rain began to get quite heavy again.

Unfortunately opening the sliding door of the van the following morning I noticed that the window on the passenger side corner was moving. After looking more closely I could see that the plastic closures had been snapped off and it was fully open, so some toe-rag had tried to break in to the van and broke the window. Thinking back this must have happened in Wales and probably when it was parked outside my moms house as at no other time since, had we left the van alone until we got to Paris. And also that was the only time the alarm went off in the middle of the night!

Its unfortunate that there are still so many Scumbags in the world that think its ok to steal or just vandalise anything they wish and the thought of someone trying to break in to the van was even worse. But it is fortunate that the alarm must have done its job and the only damage was relatively easy to repair even if it did cost us €75 a little further down the road…

With tired legs and an excellent weather forecast we were off early and on the bus this time directly to the to Arc de Triomphe. Heading North it was first to Parc Monceau, the Moulin Rouge, the street markets and the Sacré Coeur, stopping for a break on the steps overlooking the giant cityscape. Back on our feet and we were off to the artists hangout of Place du Tertre before descending the labyrinth of tiny streets among the markets, boulangeries, fromageries, and so many wine shops and sellers it was hard to resist, before finally getting back to the river at the Notre Dame for our next break.

The last leg of the day was heading south through all the busy Saturday streets full of restaurants a quick stop for some Belgian Fries before skirting the Pantheon a stop in a supermarket for a bottle of wine a fresh Baguette and a ring of camembert before heading to the Eiffel Tower once more to sit just before sunset and enjoy our very French take-out with a spectacular view!

The park was much busier on a Saturday evening with many people enjoying the same as us but a little more extravagantly. We saw full cheeseboards, wine, champagne, baguettes and a whole host of wonderful looking picnics going on.

We watched the lights coming on once more to give us the most incredible scene of Paris before heading home which unfortunately took a lot longer this night as there was an evening sport event going on with road closures so our direct bus service was not running. Eventually returning back to the van very tired and with another 30km in the legs from a second great day.

The last day of our Paris tour was with heavy rain forecast all morning so we had booked entry to the Louvre for 12am and after a slow morning we made our way by bus and train directly there and even though we had booked, we still had to queue in the pouring rain for 45 minutes before we were left in. I had never been there before so I was unprepared for the sensory onslaught of thousands of people all shuffling at snails pace, most with no idea of the magnificence that was all around them, and with only one goal of having a selfie taken in front of the Mona Lisa.

This place was really incredible and words cannot do justice to the artistry, intelligence, and skill that had gone in to everything on show, even if most of the artists lived in complete poverty and had no recognition during their lifetime for completing pieces that are quite magnificent.

At any one time there are over 35 thousand works of art on show and just to give only a few minutes that they deserve would have taken months. So as Leela knew what we should use our short time for, we focused on certain pieces that she wanted to appreciate and like all the rest, just shuttled past some works of genius only giving them a slight glance of acknowledgement.

We looked at Rembrandt, Monet, Turner, Botticelli, and of course me being the complete philistine that I am, had to take a look at Da Vinci’s Moaning Lisa just to see the complete zoo, when the real incredible work of art was directly on the opposite wall which all the crowds had their backs to!

As the hours went by my focus was waning and I was becoming a little irritable and tired of all the crowds and unfortunately the works of art were just becoming one continuous blur, so we decided to call it a day after 6 hours.

We walked back along the Champs Élysées and took the train and bus back to the camp before a glass of wine and collapsing into bed. Calling it a night on our amazing Paris experience.

18/03/2024