Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Category: Campervan

  • Favourite travel items.

    Favourite travel items.

    I thought that it would be nice to have a look at our favourite companion and travel items. There are many “Top 10’s” or โ€œmust havesโ€ or “Van hip essential” lists out there but this is a purely personal list of some things we find essential or just like. Also in no particular order.

    Towels

    If you camp or travel in a van for any period of time and you do a lot of sport or shower frequently a good towel is essential. We have tried so many over the years and none have been any good. Cheap pack towels, expensive micro fibre, they all never get you dry and they just stink after only a short amount of use with no exceptions. Until recently that is.

    I was reading travel blogs as I like to do and I came across a recommendation for the Mountain Warehouse travel towels. A company based out of the uk it has a full outdoor range of clothing and accessories so I ordered a couple from amazon to be delivered at a fairly reasonable โ‚ฌ15 each plus p+p. Worth taking the chance I thought.

    We were amazed with the quality and especially the size. And after using them constantly for the first 2 months and also after a few washes we were so impressed with them that we ordered another 2 from the uk direct on their website. The price was virtually the same and the extra โ‚ฌ8 delivery to Europe we feel is well worth it.

    They are way big enough to wrap around you to walk to the shower, they dry you very quickly, they dry themselves very quickly, they are great to use at the beach or spa and best of all there is zero smell from them after continuous use over the last 6 months travelling in Europe. A definite 5 stars from both of us.

    The Ridge Monkey

    Firstly don’t be put off by its name. This quite simple but effective piece of kitchenware was recommended by an outdoor survival blog that I follow. And even though we are living in luxury compared to him, it is a valuable addition to the kitchen cabinet.

    Its basically 2 small frying pans that slide together with removable handles. Simply great to cook meat in the van without having fat thrown all over the place. Burgers, bacon, sausages, or anything that goes in the pan can be cooked in it and when your done, its easily cleaned and packs away into a small space within its own bag. Its well made, reasonably priced and prevents a lot of unnecessary mess in the kitchen.

    Condensation Vacuum

    We have tried a couple of these, first the Kรคrcher model which was good but too large and cumbersome for our use and then the Leifheit Nemo which we have now.  This one we recommend highly as its small, compact, and has a large flat detachable head that gets into the lower part of the windscreen and is also easily stored.

    We find it invaluable in all seasons and it really keeps the condensation down in the mornings as well as being able to get you on the move quickly if you’re in a rush first thing.

    The only downside is that it doesn’t like to be held at a negative angle when its got any water in it and it does fill up quickly as the reservoir is quite small. But the benefits far outweigh the problems for us. Highly recommended.

    Quad Lock Mobile Phone System

    The whole world revolves around the mobile phone these days and even though we try to ignore it as much as possible, we cant. We use it for photography, directions, mapping, shopping, research, communication? Not so much… So finding a system where we both could interchange our phones when we are on the move is important.

    We decided on Quad look, I’m not sure why as there are many companies out there providing such solutions, but their sport orientated literature seemed to be the best for our requirements even though they certainly are not cheap!

    First you must start with the phone case itself which is an outlay for 2 phones. They are well made, hold in place well around the phone and the locking mechanism doesn’t really make the case too large or awkward to handle when in general use. They are also very sturdy and can take a drop or two as well as solid outdoor use.

    Then we went initially only for the bike mounts. I must say that these work really great and in over 2 years of use on both our mountain bikes the phones have stayed firmly fixed and have never once come off even on very rough terrain. Its great to have your phone accessible for quickly taking photos when the oportunity arises and also to have it in front of you for impromptu directions!

    After this we purchased a dashboard holder for the camper to have the phone in reachable and readable view whilst driving and once again this has proved to be very valuable on our travels as well as certainly looking the part.

    As we both run a lot we have also purchased 2 running arm bands which again work pretty well and are very comfortable even for me who doesn’t like anything on my body when I run. Even a watch is difficult for me sometimes.

    And lastly we purchased 2 mounts for our phones to attach to mini outdoor tripods. These are also very good but if they are used on cheap tripods then the weight of the phones will move often. But with a quality tripod this is not an issue.

    So overall the system is very good and very stable with all attachments. It would be nice if they supplied some sort of lanyard option to be used whilst hiking but to have this we would have to buy 2 new cases again which we feel is a little too much after all the outlay so far. I purchased a 10โ‚ฌ solution from amazon and attached my own lanyard. Its a pain in the arse but it does the job in the mountains!

    Flextail Mosquito repeller

    For me personally this is THE best thing I have purchased for being in the outdoors in a very long time. I suffer greatly with mosquito bites and also quite nasty reactions and over a lifetime of being in the outdoors have tried absolutely everything to help make my life more comfortable.

    I came across this device on an Instagram advert last year and decided to give it a go even though it was completely unknown to me and was a decent price to outlay.

    Firstly I was impressed by the delivery from the US, the packaging, case and layout. Its strong, durable, very well made and can take some nocks as well. It takes 2 standard mosquito repellant bars that you can buy anywhere and charges through a USB C connection so thats great in the camper.

    I can honestly say that this device has completely changed the way that we camp now. Put this on the table outside and I can now sit out until late on a warm night in minimal to no clothing whereas before I would have to be covered head to foot.

    We can put it near the camper door whilst sitting inside allowing us to have the door open, or cook whilst walking in and out without too much worry of having the van full of the little schitt$.

    I take it hiking on my backpack and also use it whilst taking stops and having lunch on the trail. And I even clip it to my belt whilst mowing the lawn or doing garden work as the mosquitos here in Austria are also quite a hostile race.

    I cannot recommend this highly enough and I will for sure be ordering a second unit to use around the van for complete peace of mind. It really is a wonderful addition to my outdoors equipment and now allows me to be more comfortable and enjoy the outdoors even more.

    Reversing Camera

    We have a built in reversing camera on the van that is fitted to the high mounted rear break light. This is ok and gives a good idea of whats behind you whilst driving. But it is not very good for judging distance and if you have a cover on the bikes on the back rack, it is rendered completely useless. So after watching my favourite UK gadget manโ€™s YouTube channel I took the plunge for an extra dedicated reversing camera from Auto Vox.

    It really is great and after 6 months of use it has helped a lot with parking and manoeuvring in tight spaces. It’s really simple to fit with the camera and a solar power bank sticking to your rear number plate and then a wireless screen mounted on the dash with a 12v power supply. The screen quality is more than adequate and the signal strength is always very strong and not yet required an extra charge as the solar is more than sufficient. A really great safety addition and well worth the money and may just save you an expensive accident.

    Summary:

    So there we are, some things that we find very useful in the camper. There are many more of course but I thought I would start with just a few. The manufacturers of these items are unfortunately not sponsoring any of this (even though I reached out) so these are our personal views.

    I think that I will also do a few in depth posts about the bigger installations like solar and security upgrades in the future. Please let me know if this is something that would be of interest away from the travel posts.

    Thanks as always. Ryan & Leela

  • Terme Banovci – A strange place.

    Terme Banovci – A strange place.

    Easter weekend we drove to Terme Banovci in Slovenia. Itโ€™s a place we have wanted to visit for a couple of years now but have been continuously putting it off. Mainly because the website was completely incomprehensible!

    It was attractive to us as it is a Terme complex with the usual Hotel and spa facilities but it also has both a Textile and Naturist campsite attached. So after countless time wasted on the website and also having no help or explanation on the telephone, we arrived on the assumption that it would cost approximately โ‚ฌ45 per night. And as this would include a pitch, with electric, and entry to the Terme complex, we decided to go.

    Arriving on Easter Friday at a reasonable hour we immediately found out that the website was a sign of how confusing the place and system actually is. The first hurdle is trying to just check-in, as you must do this in the hotel reception and nowhere near the campsite. And after an irritatingly long wait and having none of our questions answered. We finally had a pitch number and left with a deep breath.

    Then you had to get in… As you enter the camping area there is little to no signage or segregation between textile and naturist, and finding the pitch was impossible as the map they give you is unreadable and bears zero resemblance to the campsite itself. So we just parked and walked around a while until we found the pitch number.

    Actual parking was the next problem as all the pitches are tiny. We only have a 6m van but the surrounding neighbours all had 7m plus vans and as they could not fit into the pitches and paid no attention or respect to anyone else, they used our empty pitch for their fat arsed overhangs, leaving us at quite the angle and partly in the road! But finally we were at least settled and as the sun was slowly appearing we went for a look around and to see what was on offer. And then it got really confusing…

    There was a thermal outdoor pool situated between both camping areas that was vague with its clothes/no clothes rules together with only one small and moderately filthy Sauna. This complex had seen better days and had certainly not been cleaned in many, many, days. But we could at least use this area included in our camping fee, and as long as both Leela (and I) could cope with the unpleasant, overweight, male perverts following her every move, we could try to enjoy it naked. Then we went to check out the actual indoor spa complex but found this to be just unfathomable.

    So: We could enter the main Terme and use the textile indoor and outdoor pool, which (we didn’t want), but to use the sauna complex, we would have to pay a further โ‚ฌ30 each per day (which is what we were actually there for). Not what the website indicates or what we were told! Also if you go into the Terme area, you could only use it for a 2 hour period. And if you left, say to go for food or a drink, then you would have to wait for a further 2 hours after leaving before you were allowed to enter again. Just incomprehensible.

    So in the end we just stayed at the van, enjoyed some nice food and a few beers over the weekend and visited the outdoor pool a few times which was quite nice. But mostly we spent the time covered up as the perversion there from the men was just exhausting for us both. Which is the case at nearly every single naturist location we visit these days.

    And to cap it all off, the final bill was nowhere near what we believed it would be. And for over โ‚ฌ65 per night, Terme Banovci is certainly not worth that sort of money for one dilapidated pool, a filthy sauna, and for Leela to be leered at constantly.

    Not at all a place recommended by us!

  • Southern Austria

    Southern Austria

    An outdoor adventure paradise but also an alternative naturist destination.

    I have lived in Austria for over 10 years and in that time have come to know the attitude toward naturism and the naturist lifestyle here very well. Its a very strange country to try and make your home with some quite ridiculous bureaucratic obstacles and extreme language difficulties. But if you are planning a naturist vacation, its a truly viable and beautiful alternative.

    Getting to Carinthia (Kรคrnten) is the first hurdle as the only worthwhile airport is Vienna and thats a four hour drive away. Klagenfurt is the regional airport with only one UK option of Ryanair from Stansted. So logistically flying from the Uk could be complicated. There is of course the possibility of driving but unless you have enough time to play with and plan a road trip then the 1500+ km is a long way for a weeks holiday and back! But if you can find your way down here then the rewards can be quite breathtaking.

    Carinthia is the southernmost region of Austria and has the most Mediterranean feel of anywhere in the country and with enough lakes and mountains to keep even the most enthusiastic of outdoors people entertained for the duration of your stay. The possibilities for outdoor activities are quite literally endless, with everything from hiking, climbing, via ferrata, mountain biking, road cycling, alpine passes and water sports. The list just goes on. And put on top of that a very naturist friendly climate from May through September, then it becomes a very attractive destination.

    There are three naturist campsites in the region at Millstรคttersee, Wรถrthersee and Eberndorf, and for a short stay all these campsites are all worth visiting. The campsite located in Eberndorf is my local Naturist Club and is around 30km from Klagenfurt with pretty decent public transport connections if needed, but your own vehicle is highly recommended to be able to fully explore the incredible surroundings to the maximum. It is officially classed as a FKK Holiday Village and therefore has people living there all year round as well as incorporating a full naturist campsite and hotel into the vast grounds.

    The surrounding area has an enormous amount on offer whether by foot, bicycle or car. The lakes of Gรถsselsdorfersee and Sonneggersee are located in areas of natural beauty and the nearby Klopeinersee lake is one of the warmest and most beautiful holiday locations in the whole of Austria. And just perfect for a day out SUP, swimming or just a lovely walk around the 5km picturesque lake. It also hosts a number of large events through the summer season from local farmers markets, triathlons, fun runs and quite extravagant fire work displays. And if you play golf then the course at Lake Turnersee is also very nearby and of high quality.

    By bike you can explore the famous Drau River bike path, the historic hills of Hemmaberg and the Eisenkappel Valley with its crystal clear rivers and waterfalls. And for mountain bikers the Petzen bike park with down-hill tracks and flow country trail is only a short drive away.

    For walkers and hikers there is not only local walks and forest trails available but also the Petzen where you have the option of hiking to the 2100m peak on the Slovenian border, many other surrounding peaks above 2000m, as well as the breathtaking challenge of hiking the wonderful Hochobir mountain with commanding views over the whole of the Karawanken range.

    Being so close to Slovenia there is also the opportunity of taking a worth while day trip to see its capitol Ljublanja (also an airport option) or the extremely picturesque lake Bled. As well as the Carinthian capitol Klagenfurt, lake wรถrthersee or the international street festival of Villach.

    So there is much to see and do in this little southern corner of Austria. And if the weather doesn’t work out for a day, then there is the local naturist Bathhouse at Klopeinersee or for the true alpine Terme experience, the Rรถmerbad at Badkleinkirchheim is a wonderful day out that is highly recommended even if the weather is good.

    If anyone would like any further information about my local area then please get in touch.

    Best naturist wishes.

    Ryan & Leela

  • A weekend in the Dolomites

    A weekend in the Dolomites

    Last weekend we decided on a last minute hiking trip to the Dolomites and a visit to two of its most famous landmarks. The weather forecast was reasonable for what we wanted to achieve and as it was possibly the last opportunity before the ice and snow set in for the winter, we packed the van and headed out on Friday late afternoon.

    The drive from us to the Dolomites is a very scenic 3 hours through beautiful Austrian valleys before reaching the Italian border. It was getting dark quickly and with a few Sat-Nav issues, we finally made it to our parking way after dark. The ski-lift parking at Passo Tre Croci is vast and fortunately still free for campers. Although when there we witnessed some so called modern “vanlifers” trying their best to get us all banned by partying and lighting open camp fires in the parking lot. It’s a shame that these people are getting all the free parking places taken away from us.

    Waking up in such an environment is a gift and after getting ourselves sorted we were out and on the trail in good time to miss the type of people mentioned above. I knew the trail to Lago di Sorapis would be quite difficult in damp and icy conditions as I had been there before. So I also knew that caution and patience would be required to navigate the tricky sections and to deal with the unprepared walkers on the mountain.

    No matter what Trip Advisor says, this is a tough trail. Its a good distance at nearly 18k. There is a decent bit of climbing at around 650m. And the trail is exposed in sections, wet and slippery, has wires and ladders, as well as some scrambling in places. So an all round mountain hike that should not be taken lightly and treated with some respect.

    After a couple of hours and some incredible mountain scenery we reached the lake. And even though the sky was grey and the water level very low, it was still a truly wonderful sight. The colour of the water even in these conditions still transfixes your gaze and the giant walls of rock gives you a real sense of scale and how small we really are in this environment. The idyllic moments to share only being spoilt by other humans who do not have an understanding of where they are and also by my biggest frustration of modern times, the Drones. Of which there is a complete ban in the Italian national parks and very large signs prohibiting them absolutely everywhere. But apparently they don’t teach reading these days on Tik-Tok but it does teach you that you can do whatever you wantโ€ฆ

    We nevertheless spent a lovely hour having our lunch and admiring the views before making our way back down the mountain and to the van for a welcome hot shower and a cold beer. After a couple of hours we made our way to our next destination of Lago Antorno at the foot of Tre Cime. Here there are only a few places to park your van overnight free of charge and we were incredibly lucky that a spot opened up just as we arrived. You can of course use the toll road and park at Rifugio Aurenzo but this will set you back a whopping โ‚ฌ60 for 12 hours so if you want to overnight up there and also do the hike the next day, thats a cool โ‚ฌ120 for a piece of dirt and no servicesโ€ฆ

    Our parking was more than sufficient for us with an incredible view of Tre Cime from below and the reflections in the lake. The night at 2000m was clear and cold and we woke to a few cmโ€™s of fresh snow in the morning, so we took it easy with a slow breakfast before hitting the trail a little after 9am.

    Hiking from Lago Antorno gives you a lovely 5 or 6 km through the forest with Tre Cime always loitering above you and in your eye line. The trail was very nice in the fresh snow and an easy enough hike to get you to the main hut. But we were astonished to see that it seemed quite relaxed up there. Not paying much attention to this, we made our way around these magnificent peaks and enjoyed the views and the very fortunate situation of having fresh snow with easy hiking and a flash of blue sky at the right moments.

    Heading back down we were still confused how we were virtually alone up there. An occurrence that is normal only in full winter conditions when the access road is blocked. And then we were told that the toll road was closed for some reason so all the Instagrammers were stranded at the bottom! And as they were of course not prepared to actually hike to the mountain under their own propulsion, they remained there complaining to the police. It also explained the complete chaos at the lake and car park when we returned to the van. So we enjoyed the last views of the day before getting behind the wheel and heading back to Austria.

    An absolutely incredible location to visit but in reality overrun and being slowly destroyed by modern society. If your a mountain person and still want to visit these natural phenomena then store all your patience up for these incredible locations. You will need it…

  • Camper Navigation

    Camper Navigation

    Kenwood DNR 992RVS Camper Navigation Upgrade

    We have had our camper for 3 years now and it came with a X-zent F270 Navi pre- installed by the manufacturer with full European maps. I knew nothing of this company or device before, and during the 50.000 km of use there was quite a lot of frustrating kmโ€™s. The user interface is mildly complicated, the map updates are incredibly complicated and totally impossible if you use a Mac operating system, the firmware update is just the same, the touch screen not so responsive and with no Apple Carplay, somewhat frustrating. And factor in my deteriorating eyesight on a small screen and it was time for an upgrade.

    I looked at many options currently on the market all ranging from around โ‚ฌ700 to โ‚ฌ2000 and as my requirements were for a Garmin powered system, a 10โ€ screen and good quality sound, I was left with only one real option. The flagship Kenwood 10.1โ€ Camper Navi coming in at a trouser troubling โ‚ฌ1400. And as I was upgrading the stereo, I also wanted to upgrade the speakers at the same time as the Fiat Ducato standard speakers were literally not worth having installed in the first place, as my iPhone speakers out powered them!

    What I needed:

    • Kenwood DNR 992RVS Navigation system
    • Emphaser EM-FTF2 Plug n Play Speaker system for Fiat Ducato
    • Universal 2 din head unit fixing cage
    • Fiat ducato 2 din dashboard surround
    • Ignition/override ISO dashboard switch
    • Steering link cable ISO for Fiat Ducato
    • Alubutyl 2mm self adhesive insulation panels
    • Acoustic 10mm self adhesive soundproofing mat insulation
    • Auto interior trim removal kit

    Speakers

    I decided on the highly recommended Emphaser EM-FTF2 speakers specifically manufactured for the Ducato van and with a simple plug and play installation. To install the door speakers, all of the trims first need to be removed which require a little care and patience, and as you are removing everything anyway, I recommend you add some sound insulation to the doors as Fiat provide nothing at the manufacture time. This will help enormously with the finished product and overall sound experience whilst driving.

    The tweeters are slightly easier to install depending if you have integrated window blinds or not. Again just use care and attention as the blinds are very light and fragile. The plug and play was exactly as promised and both the speakers and tweeters fitted exactly into the available brackets and cable connections in the Fiat wiring loom.

    Head Unit

    Unpacking the Kenwood DNR 992RVS you get a feel of quality. Nice cabling, solid construction and a truly lovely display, so the initial feeling is of a good purchase. I am quite practical and have decent campervan and electrical knowledge, and after successfully installing our complicated Thitronik alarm system a couple of years ago, felt I had the skills to fit the stereo myself. So here goes!

    Before installation I believed I had purchased all what I would require for a one afternoon fit, but I was to be disappointed with my lack of knowledge and expertise as the week dragged on.

    First thing is the removal of the X-zent system and to make a note and label all the existing connection cables. I thought this would be quite straightforward but Etrusco had made a complete dogs dinner of the installation. Cutting cables too short, no protection to the external power switch, bypassing the harness connections to save money and time, and taking off all the labels from the rear of the unit connections. But after trying to get a grip on everything, I managed to work it out and remove the stereo. Then it was a journey the following day to purchase a correct override switch that would fit the Fiats ISO wiring loom and allow switching of the stereo either from the ignition or override it when parked.

    Getting back to it the following day I managed to work out and install the 2 din housing cage and installed it to the correct depth around the main unit. Important note here. Do this before you connect any of the wiring as otherwise you will have to disconnect all of the wiring again to fit the cage as it mounts from the rear. This should save you a lot of wasted time that I cant get back…

    The power switch is straightforward and fitted into the existing hole and wiring loom without issue. If you dont already have one then you will need to drill a hole somewhere in your dash which is convenient for you. The FM aerial, DAB aerial, GPS locator and microphone was also not a problem and as I had already installed a USB socket extension to the lower panel, this also just plugged in. The existing rear camera needed some modifications and requires a power and a ground feed which can be easily found at the rear of the unit and spliced in.

    There are no other cameras on the van even though the stereo is capable of connecting 3 more, so the extra cables and connections are just taped up and left in place. There is also no electric handbrake and the mute technology is built into the harness cable so can be ignored. The Speed Pulse Input cable is a mystery to both an Audio electrician and also Fiat. Both saying they just ignore it when installing any stereo that has this cable as an option. So ignore it I did but it proved troublesome later…

    The last thing to install was the afterยญmarket steering wheel control cable. This in theory was simple. Set the pins for Kenwood and connect one simple cable to the rear of the stereo and find the grey jack that is hidden somewhere behind the dash on the vehicle. All done, installed into the dash and the beautiful screen fitted. It really did look amazing!

    Power on and it lit up like a Christmas Tree. All beeping and flashing and connecting to satellites and phones and control from the steering wheel as well as quite tremendous sound from the new speakers. I was very excited with my work. That was until our first trip out… Then the complications begun.

    At first everything seemed to work perfectly and really quite impressively. Then, whilst listening to music via Carplay, the volume decided to lower itself to zero as if possessed. I turned it back up and it would lower itself and after 50 km or so of this I gave up and just left the music off. Then the sat nav began to play up and could not give me a location, continuously re-calculating the route as it thought I was of course and somewhere else nearby. And after another 30 or so km of this I got so frustrated I just turned it off and used the phone. Thoroughly annoyed with the vast amount of money outlaid for no apparently good reason.

    Conclusion.

    After 2 weeks of unsuccessful troubleshooting and back and forth frustration with Kenwood Europe and the Audio shop, I eventually traced the dropout functions to a faulty lead on the steering wheel link cable which I replaced myself instead of sending it back. The erratic GPS was caused by not having the speed pulse cable connected for its intended purpose. Where after extended research and no help from Fiat was finally located after some help from pioneer of all people! On a 2022 series 8 Fiat Ducato to it needs to be run to the black connector at the fuse box and inserted into empty pin 22. This solved the location issue.

    And now after nearly a month of frustration the unit is functioning as advertised and I can only highly recommend it. The Navi functionality and interface is excellent and the Garmin maps and set-up a breeze to use. The Carplay system is really helpful especially on long travel. The steering controls are extremely practical and safe and the sound quality together with the speaker upgrade and door insulation is now unrecognisable. A completely different and pleasurable driving experience.

    Is it worth the outlay?

    For me personally, I think so. The biggest thing for me was always the Navi and the size of the screen, and the Kenwood/Garmin system just works with their vast experience in this field and the screen is quite incredible from Kenwood. Its responsive and easy to read which is what’s most important. The rest of the functions and Carplay is a bonus and something I am getting used to and now very glad it’s there.

  • Fkk Camping Ulika – Istria

    Fkk Camping Ulika – Istria

    Ulika camping is the last naturist site that we had not visited in mainland Croatia. There are still two on the islands that are on our list but they are quite a distance and logistically difficult for a short trip so they will have to wait a while longer.

    Camping Ulika is run by Istra Camping and lies 8 km north of Porec on the Istrian coast. The camp is well laid out and well taken care of with nice and spacious marked pitches as well as a free for all area and some lovely mobile homes with small pools. There are four restaurants, a supermarket, some shops, a nice bakery and a hairdresser to take care of all your basic needs as well as enough old, but clean, sanitary blocks dotted around the site.

    The camp gives off a very peaceful atmosphere but we were there on a somewhat cool Easter weekend only a couple of days after opening so there was hardly anyone there and not all the facilities were open. I am sure there is a much different feel to the place in high season when its completely full and people’s respect wanes somewhat!

    We arrived early on Easter Friday and after an easy check-in found a wonderful pitch overlooking the ocean with the infeasibly large site map given to us by the receptionist. And with the weather much better than forecast we were able to enjoy the sun for most of the day and taking a short run before again enjoying the afternoon and evening views from our pitch.

    naked man looking at the ocean

    On Saturday we woke early to blue skies and slightly less wind and after an early morning run exploring the lovely nearby peninsula north of the site and then an equally lovely breakfast, we took a long walk around the whole camp to get a good feel for the place.

    The sports facilities looked ok but the 5โ‚ฌ free for a pathetic and not upgraded mini-golf and the same price for the use of the table tennis tables seemed very excessive. The pool was filled and looked great, but again a charge of 10โ‚ฌ for a sun lounger for the day was an unnecessary expense for a campsite to charge. But a positive was that the supermarket prices were not hiked too high and it was well stocked and as an added bonus you didn’t have to dress to go in there which is always an issue at naturist campsites.

    naked man walking by the ocean

    Sunday we took the bikes out for a very nice ride along the coastline paths to the Mirna canal and back. Passing through little coastline villages and marinas, there are many options to stop for lunch or a beer along the way. The tracks were a little wet in places after the recent rains but mostly perfect for a good mountain bike and very scenic with ocean and countryside views.

    Monday was spent around the van, walking around the camp, and just enjoying the warm spring weather. Something we have dearly missed over the winter months in Austria.

    Camping Ulika was definitely somewhere that we enjoyed and would re-visit. The camp out of season was relaxed and the facilities, although basic, were clean and working well. We enjoyed the openness of the camp and not having to dress or cover up to go in the bars during the day or the supermarket and reception. There are many running and cycling trails available nearby and enough space to find some peace. We did not like the extra charges for basic things that should be included in the already high price, but every campsite we visit these days charge for absolutely everything they can get away with. And until people stop paying, it will just continue.

    But in general a really nicely laid out site in a great location and plenty to do. And now that nearby FKK Koversada has moved away from naturism to textile camping and taken thousands of naturist pitches away, a place that will for sure only get more popular in the next years.

    Happy naturist travels.

    Ryan & Leela

    sunset at the ocean
  • Spring upgrades

    Spring upgrades

    Inverter

    victron inverter

    First on the to-do list was to finally install a 200w inverter. We already never use or require an electrical hook-up and only ever take advantage of it when we visit a campsite where the electric is part of the pitch cost, but we do have a couple of things that still only have a 2 pin plug to charge.

    This being the hand-held vacuum, Leela’s camera charger and most importantly the laptop if we take it with us on a longer journey. And this being an expensive and fragile piece of kit, we went for a quality Victron pure Sine Wave 12/250 Inverter.

    This model is the lowest power output that is available at 200W but still more than adequate for our requirements and its relatively small, light and easy to install. But if you have induction stoves, kettles or hairdryers in your van then you will need a substantially bigger unit!

    Bed headboards

    And whilst in the back of the bed, we addressed a problem that has been bothering us the last year or so. That being when we sleep we inadvertently push the pillows into the rear windows and this risks damaging the somewhat fragile window blinds.

    I looked around the DIY stores for ideas and did find some small head board panels that were ideal but I could not come up with a way to fix them without major surgery to the rear doors. But after a large amount of internet searching I found a random guy in Germany who had the same issue and had very cleverly designed some plastic fixing brackets for this exact purpose. He made them with a 3D printer so that the exact same headboards that I had found in the store could be fitted into the window blind frame without any surgery required at all. If only I were that clever…

    Anyway, after exchanging some emails and transferring a worryingly large amount of cash for such a small item, a plastic bag arrived a few days later with all the necessary parts. And I have to admit that it worked perfectly and was worth every cent, so hats off to you whoever you are for such a clever idea.

    camper van headboards
    campervan bedroom

    Outdoor shower

    Last on the list and the largest of the projects was to fit an outdoor shower point so that we could wash dirty kit and shower in warm weather without having to saturate the bathroom and drag dirty things in through the van.

    This proved to be a lot more complicated and stressful than I had imagined mainly due to the strange layout of the van build. The first and obvious place for it would have been next to the toilet cassette but any access from inside was not possible. The next idea was under the bench seat where the boiler is located but this also gave no access for isolation values and it is already quite congested in there. So after a lot of thought I dismantled the food cupboard to take a look, and this exposed the hot and cold pipes that fed the bathroom sink as well as a space between the floor and cupboard bottom with an access panel where I could place the isolation valves which I hoped would be ok.

    Drilling a large hole in the side of the van is quite daunting and as with all these things, preparation is key. So with all the plans made and tools laid out and with Leela jammed into the food cupboard inside the van so that I didn’t accidentally cut all the service pipes and wires, I fired up the drillโ€ฆ A few stressful hours later we had a lovely outdoor shower and washing point with full isolation valves for winter storage easily accessible from inside.

    And as an extra note, the Lilie plastic valves you see in the photo turned out to be terrible and the handle popped on both valves under very minimal pressure. So I have replaced them with 10mm Brass Ball Valves which were actually cheaper than the “campervan” valves and 100% more robust and efficient.

    Jobs done!

    campervan outdoor shower
    campervan outdoor shower
    campervan outdoor shower
  • ลฝeljava Air Base, Zadar and Pag island

    ลฝeljava Air Base, Zadar and Pag island

    ลฝeljava Air Base

    Its felt like a very long 3 months since our return from Spain and I was in need of an adventure so I packed the van and headed south through Slovenia and Northern Croatia to the Bosnian border. The drive there was quite surreal and somewhat unnerving as this area was where most of the heavy fighting was done during the Yugoslavian war, and even though it was over 30 years ago, you still got the feeling of danger all around.

    Vast open countryside with armoured bunkers along the roadside. Derelict buildings littered with bullet holes and still flying decaying Yugoslavian flags. Police cruising everywhere with roadside stops looking for immigrants and smugglers coming over the Bosnian border. This really was no-mans land and I was heading for the abandoned ลฝeljava Air Base, a relic from the cold war and code named Objekta 505.

    This was a top-secret bunker concealed under mount Pleลกecica and at full capacity was large enough to hide up to 60 warplanes. There is a stripped out and vandalised C-47 transporter plane which you can climb aboard and two derelict runways which you can drive down which was quite a cool experience.

    The bunker itself is a little creepy when you enter. The MIG fighter opening in the nuclear blast proof doors is very interesting but once inside its pitch black and even with a torch its still unnerving to walk through. This is still the external border with the EU and the area surrounding the airbase is part of the Balkan smuggling route for illegal immigrants, so you must be wary even with all the police presence.ย  But a very interesting place to visit and recommended if you are in the area.

    Zadar

    I have never been to Zadar but heard many good things about the town and surroundings. I wanted to stay at the all year campsite for the main reason that in off-season you get to use the gym and spa in the neighbouring hotel. The campsite was relatively clean and tidy but it was nearly empty so that should not have been a problem. The hotel gym was basic but it opened at 7am and I used it every day and the spa was very much unloved but the sauna was welcome each evening after training.

    The old town of Zadar was really very nice and you can spend a pleasant few hours wandering the streets and ocean front in the spring sunshine. The Organ steps being a lovely place to sit for a while with the sound of the waves gently playing out some soothing notes. I’m not sure what it would sound like if the sea was very rough though!

    I had planned a week of cycle tours taking me far and wide but after the third day I was counting my luck that I was still in one piece and decided to put the bike away. The problem was that there were no cycle paths at all, no sidewalks on the seafront, and the limited off-road tours were bogged down after torrential rain the past weeks. But by far the worst issue was the abundance of road and construction works that was happening. New infrastructure installations and new apartments on every single free plot of land, it was quite amazing. But the nock-on effect was that cycling was quite dangerous as all the traffic was frustrated and impatient. So the time in Zadar was enjoyable but its geared toward the general and family tourist and not really outdoors people or cyclists.

    Island Pag

    Deciding to leave the campsite earlier than planned I headed to the Island of Pag. Also never having been here before I wanted to end my trip in good weather and hike the famous Island trail. I found this trail quite a few years ago when looking for off-road running races but I never got to run it and now my aging body unfortunately wont let me! So I thought that I would just hike it instead.

    Arriving on the island at a beautiful sunset it was tough to keep your eyes on the road but after a far more difficult drive than planned I eventually arrived at my park-up as it was getting dark. Not knowing how amazing it was until I woke up just before dawn the next day.

    I had parked on the headland near the small town of Metajna and there I stayed completely alone for the next three days. It was such an amazing location and in the off-season totally ignored by everyone. From my base I made two days of hiking all around the area covering every path and distant corner of this quite bizarre headland. The trails are just incredibly difficult to hike being sharp loose rocks and it really takes a lot of effort and a toll on the body but the plus side is that if you do see anyone you know that they really want to be there. And you are guaranteed that you will not run into your average unfit tourist on this trail.

    I was so fortunate that in two days and over 40 km of naked hiking I experienced 20 degrees, no wind, and the most remarkable thing was that I did not encounter one single person in all this time. Just unbelievable. I also visited all of the remote beaches the highlight being Malin beach where I spent the majority of my time.

    Here I just lay in the warm sun and listen to the complete and utter quiet and without exaggeration there were periods of time where there was not a single sound, not even a bird in the sky. Something I don’t think I have ever experienced before in such a place. The beach also has the advantage of having a natural fresh water Spring with pure drinkable water which is a real bonus being so far from anywhere and if my day there couldn’t have been any better, a dolphin decided just to cruise by as I was getting ready to leave. Thank you!

    A really amazing location and if you love nature then a definite place to visit even though it is incredibly remote and very hard going but so worth the effort. I know that this beach is overrun in the summer with taxi boats dropping off the masses and causing havoc but in off- season you wont find anyone who doesn’t belong there. A real corner of natural paradise that is a worth while visit if you are on the island of Pag and a true naturists dream.

  • Costa del Sol

    Costa del Sol

    Getting back on track after our amazing weeks detour and return to Cabo de Gata, we headed south for the lovely out of season town of Nerja and found a beach side parking for a few days. From here we explored Nerja which at the end of November had a British retirement home feel to it. Much like a more relaxed and cleaner version of Benidorm. We also visited the mountain village of Figiliana and spent some nice time hiking the waterways high above this quaint village.

    After enjoying some more time at our lovely parking watching the most incredible sunrises, we made our way a little further down the coast to Torre del Mar and naturist camping Almanat. We were not sure if we would stay but after walking around we thought we would give it a try even though we were very sceptical. As it turned out we should have gone with our gut feeling and just left and cancelled the booking.

    The campsite was pretty awful to say the least. Still absolutely filthy after the high water where everything you touched or put down was covered with dirt and mud. Not their fault obviously but the entrance and all access roads around the camp were like a swamp. It left us feeling depressed and sorry for the state of this part of Spain..

    The beach was like a bomb site with no real attempt to clean it up and even if you could find a spot amongst the debris you then had to put up with the inevitable flurry of activity around us when an attractive woman appeared. So we packed up and left there as soon as we could.

    Driving further down the Costa del Sol we were heading for our final destination of the trip and the furthest south we would go. We wanted to visit Malaga and parked just outside Torremolinos and directly under the flight path! The car park did turn out to be a decent base though as it was close enough to walk to the train station and also near a Nike outlet where I finally had some new running shorts as Leela had sewn up my old ones too many times now on this trip!

    Malaga was a nice city with plenty of room to move and a relaxed atmosphere. We walked to the castle, the marina and all through the old town. Unfortunately the one art exhibition that we wanted to see was closed on a Monday so we just walked the city and did enjoy the market and Christmas lights, even though they were not on in the middle of the day.

    The city gave us a feeling that it is mainly geared toward the huge cruise ships that dock right in the centre. Even the market, where we hoped to have eaten, had a very structured menu. Not the vibrant chaotic locals market that we were led to believe and hoping to experience. The options for aย  cheap beer and nice Tapas replaced with expensive cava and a โ‚ฌ15 bowl of paella that looked like it had been sitting there for three days! So we continued walking late into the afternoon before taking the train back toward the Costaโ€™s and the parking lot.

    We were hoping to have stayed at least another day there to take a look at the naturist beach nearby, but as the beach clean-up was progressing very slowly we decided to move on to have a last day together at a beach further south.

    We found a nice little park-up very close to Cabopino naturist beach where we had hoped to enjoy. The usual unfathomable behaviour and cruising in the dunes on a Wednesday afternoon bringing stress to straight couples and single women is a constant irritation to us. But the sun shone and we tried to focus on ourselves.

    Unfortunately we had to leave shortly after when a man walked around us 3 times within a couple of feet and then began playing with himself. I tried to be polite and then more threatening but I should have just called the Police. The outcome was the same as with all of them. Run away. They do not understand the extreme stress that they bring to people and they are so lucky that they don’t get themselves into more trouble than just a verbal exchange. We were jointly hugely frustrated with the day, the local people, and the area.

    It was so sad as it was to be our final day together of the trip and it was spoiled by the state of something that we love so dearly – Naturism. Well of course not exactly the lifestyle of Naturism but the men (and it is only men) who are now using it as a foil to their terrible behaviour in ALL naturist locations that we have visited. Without exception.

    We hoped for a fantastic last day together, but we were both left deflated with people so we had a few beers and watched an amazing sunset and night sky which cheered us up no end..

    The next day was our planned official end to the trip as Leela was flying back to Austria first as she had to prepare to go back to work and there was lots to take care of, and I would slowly make my way back over the next days to return by Christmas.

    There are always highs and lows with extended travel and this last week or so was definitely the low point of the trip. It was such a shame that this particular journey had ended a little flat, but what we had done, achieved, seen and experienced was just incredible.

    Happy travels.

  • Cabo de Gata

    Cabo de Gata

    After our amazing time inland and in the mountains we returned to the coastline at Motril. This would be the week of Leela’s birthday but our plans of staying a whole week at the naturist camp Almanat would have to be put on hold as the campsite had suffered badly during the flooding a couple of weeks earlier and were still trying to clean up the mess. So we moved our reservation to give them some more time and changed our plans a little.

    Leela’s only request was to be near the ocean and hopefully on a naturist beach, and by far the best beaches we had seen on this trip were at Cabo de Gata. So we made the couple of hours drive back up the coast to this incredible natural paradise once more, and with the weather forecast looking like beach weather all week, we were sure she would get what she wanted.

    We spent a quiet night just outside the park before heading for San Jose and a few nights in this sleepy town, spending the days running, hiking and relaxing on the amazing beaches that run along this peninsula.

    Next we moved to las Negras for a few nights and done pretty much the same in and around Playazo de Rodalquilar beach. Before returning to San Jose for Leelaโ€™s birthday and just an amazing day in 25 degrees, blue skies and still swimming in the crystal clear ocean at the end of November. We had a lovely meal in a quaint restaurant, a very seldom treat for us on this trip, and a fantastic time exploring this spectacular landscape.

    Cabo de Gata really is a unique and amazing place to visit and we can wholeheartedly recommend it if you are active outdoors and a beach and nature lover. If you are a naturist it has the added bonus of having a few officially designated naturist beaches within the park. But with Spains liberal nudism laws and in low season, you can pretty much be naked everywhere as we were. From sunrise to sunset, on the beaches, at the van, and whilst hiking which was an incredible bonus and made the week unforgettable for us to feel so free in this natural paradise.

    Happy birthday.