Cap d’Agde

Leaving the disappointment of Provence behind, we headed south in search of the ocean, sandy beaches and days filled with endless sunshine. And hopefully no wind…

From Aix we drove to the coast at Martigues and finally had some sunshine and a nice beach where we took a walk along the beautifully rugged coastline and laid in the sun finally. Unfortunately even though it was warm enough the wind was still howling which made everything uncomfortable but we made the most of the day. Deciding to move on early the next morning we drove on to the real south of France to begin our adventure.

Arriving at Le Grau-du-Roi we found the camper park full and complete chaos with road closures and cars everywhere. So we drove out of town and found a nice quiet spot next to a canal and read later that the chaos was due to a Bull run that was going around the town later that day. So we had some lunch and then took the bikes in search of a long sandy beach and we finally found what we were searching for and the weather to go with it.

L’Espiguette

L’Espiguette naturist beach is more than 10 km long with the western side being clothing and the more remote eastern side being Naturist. After a decent walk from the parking lot where we left the bikes we found a nice spot out of the wind and enjoyed a few hours on this beautiful beach. Laying there on a busy Sunday we were confused with the constant stream of men walking by with extreme purpose. It really was quite amazing.

Every 30 seconds or so they would stream by with their focus concentrating on the distance. After some google work we did find out that the far end of the beach, which was fortunately out of sight, was a gay and swingers beach, and Sunday was most definitely the day for gay swinging apparently!

We were just glad that they were walking past us with only a few stopping within a few meters of us to “re-arrange” themselves. Theres nothing I can really say but its just a shame that these men cant control themselves and are ruining true naturist locations for others. But we had a wonderful time in the sun finally and after making our way back to the van and getting cleaned up we headed out to see if we could find some Bulls in town!

The ride in was nice in the evening sun but unfortunately with the road closures and masses of people it was impossible to get around on the bikes to where the action was. So we ended up sitting on the beach watching our first real sunset of the trip before heading back.

After another nice and windy day at the beach watching the men marching by and a couple openly having sex a few meters away from us, we decided we had had enough and headed back to move on, knowing that our next experience was going to be even stranger but at least we knew before hand what we were getting into to!

Driving south we eventually passed through the complicated roads of Montpellier and headed to the infamous town of cap d’Agde and the Naturist camping of Rene Oltra.

Cap d’Agde

Getting to the campsite was the first problem. We had to park the van at the heavily secured entry gates, then walk the few hundred meters to the campsite, then book in, then return to the gates, then go to a different office to purchase a totally unnecessary village entry card which is an incredible money maker, and then drive back to the campsite before being allowed to go to our pitch. This process took the best part of two hours and we were frustrated that we were loosing the best part of the days sunshine. But eventually we were on our way to the beach.

I had heard and read a lot about this place over the years and also watched a few videos on Porn Hub showing the goings on, but sometimes you just have to experience things for yourself. The beach directly outside the camp is, in relation to everywhere else, completely empty! Its lovely, sandy, quiet and a very nice naturist beach to enjoy the sun and swim in the calm ocean. And after a few hours we we were ready to take a look around.

First, walking east on this incredible beach and as soon as the campsite ends, you begin to see the other side of humans. After the bar it goes from people sunbathing about 15 meters apart and minding their own business to literally thousands of people laying towel to towel with no room for a fag paper between them. Its quite amazing and very surreal. Complete strangers within touching distance just staring at each others genitals.

There were many having oral sex, many (and only) men openly masturbating and then there were the women with groups of fat men standing in a circle pleasuring themselves over them. All in public, all with no worries about the police and with all the people around filming them. Pretty strange and somewhat pathetic times we live in…

Moving back up the beach there was again more calm with only a few blow jobs to navigate through and then the beach bars before you get to the towns main access roads. It was actually quite nice to be able to walk naked through the streets and bars and something that is not completely new to us, but the really odd thing is that all the shops and markets are located under the apartment complexes and are dark and narrow. There are sex shops and strip clubs next to supermarkets and hairdressers. There are people selling flip-flops on one rack and butt plugs on the next. It’s all just odd, but if you accept it, it is quite amusing.

We enjoyed three nights in the very well equipped campsite and beautiful beach in complete peace and quiet. The sun shone through the days and we could swim and sunbathe without being bothered by anyone. Actually the safest and unbothered we had been so far on the trip. They were all being kept amused by more interesting goings on further down the beach!

We walked along the beach and witnessed the exhibitionism whilst staying at a very safe distance and walked around the village during the day for a bit of fun and enjoyed shopping naked. We didn’t go out after dark and just enjoyed the van so we cant comment on the nocturnal activities of the place but apparently they are even more odd. And at the van, the nights were very quiet and peaceful.

It is in general a very strange place but as a Naturist somewhere that can be experienced safely without having to be part of the nonsense going on. Honestly for us, we would for sure go back as we surprisingly really enjoyed. The camp is better and cheaper than most in Croatia and France, the facilities are excellent, it is spotlessly clean and it’s amazingly quiet and completely safe. The beach directly outside is also amazing, clean and family friendly with calm water to swim. A real naturist paradise. The rest of the nonsense you can take or leave. Its your choice after all…