Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Author: adventurediary

Terme Banovci – A strange place.

Easter weekend we drove to Terme Banovci in Slovenia. It’s a place we have wanted to visit for a couple of years now but have been continuously putting it off. Mainly because the website was completely incomprehensible!

It was attractive to us as it is a Terme complex with the usual Hotel and spa facilities but it also has both a Textile and Naturist campsite attached. So after countless time wasted on the website and also having no help or explanation on the telephone, we arrived on the assumption that it would cost approximately €45 per night. And as this would include a pitch, with electric, and entry to the Terme complex, we decided to go.

Arriving on Easter Friday at a reasonable hour we immediately found out that the website was a sign of how confusing the place and system actually is. The first hurdle is trying to just check-in, as you must do this in the hotel reception and nowhere near the campsite. And after an irritatingly long wait and having none of our questions answered. We finally had a pitch number and left with a deep breath.

Then you had to get in… As you enter the camping area there is little to no signage or segregation between textile and naturist, and finding the pitch was impossible as the map they give you is unreadable and bears zero resemblance to the campsite itself. So we just parked and walked around a while until we found the pitch number.

Actual parking was the next problem as all the pitches are tiny. We only have a 6m van but the surrounding neighbours all had 7m plus vans and as they could not fit into the pitches and paid no attention or respect to anyone else, they used our empty pitch for their fat arsed overhangs, leaving us at quite the angle and partly in the road! But finally we were at least settled and as the sun was slowly appearing we went for a look around and to see what was on offer. And then it got really confusing…

There was a thermal outdoor pool situated between both camping areas that was vague with its clothes/no clothes rules together with only one small and moderately filthy Sauna. This complex had seen better days and had certainly not been cleaned in many, many, days. But we could at least use this area included in our camping fee, and as long as both Leela (and I) could cope with the unpleasant, overweight, male perverts following her every move, we could try to enjoy it naked. Then we went to check out the actual indoor spa complex but found this to be just unfathomable.

So: We could enter the main Terme and use the textile indoor and outdoor pool, which (we didn’t want), but to use the sauna complex, we would have to pay a further €30 each per day (which is what we were actually there for). Not what the website indicates or what we were told! Also if you go into the Terme area, you could only use it for a 2 hour period. And if you left, say to go for food or a drink, then you would have to wait for a further 2 hours after leaving before you were allowed to enter again. Just incomprehensible.

So in the end we just stayed at the van, enjoyed some nice food and a few beers over the weekend and visited the outdoor pool a few times which was quite nice. But mostly we spent the time covered up as the perversion there from the men was just exhausting for us both. Which is the case at nearly every single naturist location we visit these days.

And to cap it all off, the final bill was nowhere near what we believed it would be. And for over €65 per night, Terme Banovci is certainly not worth that sort of money for one dilapidated pool, a filthy sauna, and for Leela to be leered at constantly.

Not at all a place recommended by us!

07/04/2026
Art and Naturism

Two practices that offer me a meaningful way to connect with the world and have lead me toward a deeper appreciation of nature, are naturism and artistic creation. While they may seem unrelated at first glance – one centered on experiencing the body in its natural state, the other on expressing ideas through creative media – both can share a common purpose: to encourage awareness, observation, and a closer relationship with the natural environment. I have found that naturism and art offer powerful pathways for understanding myself, my surroundings, and my place in the bigger picture of life.

Naturism is fundamentally about experiencing the human body as part of nature rather than something separate from it. Without the barrier of clothing and it‘s associated symbolism, I am more aware of sunlight warming my skin, wind moving across my body, and the subtle shifts in temperature throughout the day. These sensory experiences can heighten awareness of the natural world in ways that are easy to overlook during daily life.

This sensory connection is one of the reasons I practice naturism and make art outdoors – in forests, by lakes, or on beaches. In these settings, my body is not something separate from the landscape but is another element within it. Feeling the texture of grass underfoot, the coolness of water on the skin, or the warmth of sunlit rock promotes a sense of belonging within the natural environment. Rather than observing nature from a distance, I feel immersed in it and am aware that this immersion encourages mindfulness, understanding and humility which are, without wishing to sound cliché, „making me a better person“.

I believe that this heightened sensory awareness mirrors the experience of many artists when they engage deeply with their surroundings. We may notice details that others overlook: the changing colors of a sunset, the geometry of tree branches, or the subtle patterns created by waves along a shoreline. When I begin to draw, paint, or photograph the natural world, I must slow down and observe carefully. Artistic practice transforms ordinary scenes into subjects of curiosity and appreciation.

Creating artwork inspired by nature encourages me to look more closely at the world around me. Studying a landscape, I may spend hours examining how light shifts across a hillside, and pay attention to the textures and grain patterns of wood or stone. Through photography I learn to notice fleeting moments—like the brief formation of clouds and sunlight that produces a dramatic sky. Through these processes, I have developed a habit of observation that deepens my understanding of the environment.

Both naturism and art share another important element: they invite authenticity. Naturism encourages people to accept the human body as it is, free from artificial expectations or comparisons. Similarly, art encourages personal expression rather than conformity. When one creates art, they have the opportunity to translate their unique experiences and perspectives into visual or physical form. This authenticity fosters a sense of personal connection to both the creative process and the subject being explored.

The meeting of these two practices can be particularly meaningful. I am currently exploring and finding inspiration in the human body as part of nature. The curves of muscles, the balance of posture, and the movement of limbs that mirror patterns found elsewhere in nature—waves, tree branches, or the flow of rivers. Observing the body in natural settings can reveal how seamlessly it fits within the environment.

Another shared benefit of naturism and art is their ability to cultivate mindfulness. Both practices encourage me to slow down. When I relax in a quiet natural setting I can focus on breathing, temperature, and the sounds of wind or water. Sketching in the same environment I am absorbed in the shapes, shadows, and lines. My attention shifts away from distractions and toward a direct experience.

Ultimately, naturism and artistic creation both remind us that humans are part of nature rather than separate from it. They encourage awareness of the body, the senses, and the environment. By removing physical or psychological barriers—whether clothing or habitual ways of seeing—one can rediscover a sense of curiosity and wonder about the world around them.

In times when it seems many people feel disconnected from nature, anything we can do to restore this relationship is especially valuable. Naturism offers a direct physical experience of the natural world, while art provides a creative lens through which to explore and interpret it. Together, they invite us to observe more carefully, feel more deeply, and appreciate the intricate patterns that shape both human life and the environment we inhabit.

The practices of openness, observation, and creativity remind me that understanding the world often begins with simply experiencing it—fully, attentively, and with a sense of respect for the natural systems that sustain us. I encourage any and all regardless of experience or belief in ability to explore an art form in nature as a naturist.

Leela – leelalogan.com

22/03/2026
Southern Austria

An outdoor adventure paradise but also an alternative naturist destination.

I have lived in Austria for over 10 years and in that time have come to know the attitude toward naturism and the naturist lifestyle here very well. Its a very strange country to try and make your home with some quite ridiculous bureaucratic obstacles and extreme language difficulties. But if you are planning a naturist vacation, its a truly viable and beautiful alternative.

Getting to Carinthia (Kärnten) is the first hurdle as the only worthwhile airport is Vienna and thats a four hour drive away. Klagenfurt is the regional airport with only one UK option of Ryanair from Stansted. So logistically flying from the Uk could be complicated. There is of course the possibility of driving but unless you have enough time to play with and plan a road trip then the 1500+ km is a long way for a weeks holiday and back! But if you can find your way down here then the rewards can be quite breathtaking.

Carinthia is the southernmost region of Austria and has the most Mediterranean feel of anywhere in the country and with enough lakes and mountains to keep even the most enthusiastic of outdoors people entertained for the duration of your stay. The possibilities for outdoor activities are quite literally endless, with everything from hiking, climbing, via ferrata, mountain biking, road cycling, alpine passes and water sports. The list just goes on. And put on top of that a very naturist friendly climate from May through September, then it becomes a very attractive destination.

There are two naturist campsites in the region at Millstättersee and also near Wörthersee but I would like to concentrate on the Naturist Campsite where I spend my time, where I work occasionally, and where I visit and use as you would your local naturist club back in the uk for day visits.

Rutar Lido Feriendorf

The campsite is located in the Gemeinde Eberndorf around 30km from Klagenfurt with pretty decent public transport connections if needed, but your own vehicle is highly recommended to be able to fully explore the incredible surroundings to the maximum. It is officially classed as a FKK Holiday Village and therefore has people living there all year round as well as incorporating a full naturist campsite and hotel into the vast grounds.

It is situated in 15 ha of natural paradise with 40 self contained accommodation units as well as single room and apartment options in the hotel. The camping ground has over 300 pitches including electric and fresh water, various sanitary and shower blocks, and also a specific dog friendly area so your furry friend does not have to stay at home.

There is a fresh water lake for swimming, a smaller lake for your K9 companion to enjoy, two indoor swimming pools, two outdoor swimming pools, children’s pool, 2 finnish saunas, bio sauna, infra-red sauna and massage available (from me!). Also there is fitness equipment, a supermarket, bar and pool side restaurant, lovely campsite and naturist forest walks, archery, boules and enough space to find your own little corner in complete peace and nature.

As well as everything at the campsite, the surrounding area has an enormous amount on offer whether by foot, bicycle or car. The surrounding lakes of Gösselsdorfersee and Sonneggersee are located in areas of natural beauty and the nearby Klopeinersee lake is one of the warmest and most beautiful holiday locations in the whole of Austria, and just perfect for a day out SUP, swimming or just a lovely walk around the 5km picturesque lake. It also hosts a number of large events through the summer season from local farmers markets, triathlons, fun runs and quite extravagant fire work displays. And if you play golf then the course at Lake Turnersee is also very nearby and of high quality.

From Rutar Lido by bike you can explore the famous Drau River bike path, the historic hills of Hemmaberg and the Eisenkappel Valley with its crystal clear rivers and waterfalls. And for mountain bikers the Petzen bike park with down-hill tracks and the longest flow country trail in Europe at over 12 km is only a short drive away.

For walkers and hikers there is not only local walks and forest trails available but also the Petzen where you have the option of hiking to the 2100m peak on the Slovenian border, many other surrounding peaks above 2000m, as well as the breathtaking challenge of hiking the wonderful Hochobir mountain with commanding views over the whole of the Karawanken range.

Being so close to Slovenia there is also the opportunity of taking a worth while day trip to see its capitol Ljublanja (also an airport option) or the extremely picturesque lake Bled. As well as the Carinthian capitol Klagenfurt, lake wörthersee or the international street festival of Villach.

So there is much to see and do in this little southern corner of Austria. And if the weather doesn’t work out for a day, then there is the local naturist Bathhouse at Klopeinersee or for the true alpine Terme experience, the Römerbad at Badkleinkirchheim is a wonderful day out that is highly recommended even if the weather is good.

If anyone would like any further information about Rutar Lido camping and the surrounding area then please get in touch.

Best naturist wishes.

Ryan & Leela

01/03/2026
A weekend in the Dolomites

Last weekend we decided on a last minute hiking trip to the Dolomites and a visit to two of its most famous landmarks. The weather forecast was reasonable for what we wanted to achieve and as it was possibly the last opportunity before the ice and snow set in for the winter, we packed the van and headed out on Friday late afternoon.

The drive from us to the Dolomites is a very scenic 3 hours through beautiful Austrian valleys before reaching the Italian border. It was getting dark quickly and with a few Sat-Nav issues, we finally made it to our parking way after dark. The ski-lift parking at Passo Tre Croci is vast and fortunately still free for campers. Although when there we witnessed some so called modern “vanlifers” trying their best to get us all banned by partying and lighting open camp fires in the parking lot. It’s a shame that these people are getting all the free parking places taken away from us.

Waking up in such an environment is a gift and after getting ourselves sorted we were out and on the trail in good time to miss the type of people mentioned above. I knew the trail to Lago di Sorapis would be quite difficult in damp and icy conditions as I had been there before. So I also knew that caution and patience would be required to navigate the tricky sections and to deal with the unprepared walkers on the mountain.

No matter what Trip Advisor says, this is a tough trail. Its a good distance at nearly 18k. There is a decent bit of climbing at around 650m. And the trail is exposed in sections, wet and slippery, has wires and ladders, as well as some scrambling in places. So an all round mountain hike that should not be taken lightly and treated with some respect.

After a couple of hours and some incredible mountain scenery we reached the lake. And even though the sky was grey and the water level very low, it was still a truly wonderful sight. The colour of the water even in these conditions still transfixes your gaze and the giant walls of rock gives you a real sense of scale and how small we really are in this environment. The idyllic moments to share only being spoilt by other humans who do not have an understanding of where they are and also by my biggest frustration of modern times, the Drones. Of which there is a complete ban in the Italian national parks and very large signs prohibiting them absolutely everywhere. But apparently they don’t teach reading these days on Tik-Tok but it does teach you that you can do whatever you want…

We nevertheless spent a lovely hour having our lunch and admiring the views before making our way back down the mountain and to the van for a welcome hot shower and a cold beer. After a couple of hours we made our way to our next destination of Lago Antorno at the foot of Tre Cime. Here there are only a few places to park your van overnight free of charge and we were incredibly lucky that a spot opened up just as we arrived. You can of course use the toll road and park at Rifugio Aurenzo but this will set you back a whopping €60 for 12 hours so if you want to overnight up there and also do the hike the next day, thats a cool €120 for a piece of dirt and no services…

Our parking was more than sufficient for us with an incredible view of Tre Cime from below and the reflections in the lake. The night at 2000m was clear and cold and we woke to a few cm’s of fresh snow in the morning, so we took it easy with a slow breakfast before hitting the trail a little after 9am.

Hiking from Lago Antorno gives you a lovely 5 or 6 km through the forest with Tre Cime always loitering above you and in your eye line. The trail was very nice in the fresh snow and an easy enough hike to get you to the main hut. But we were astonished to see that it seemed quite relaxed up there. Not paying much attention to this, we made our way around these magnificent peaks and enjoyed the views and the very fortunate situation of having fresh snow with easy hiking and a flash of blue sky at the right moments.

Heading back down we were still confused how we were virtually alone up there. An occurrence that is normal only in full winter conditions when the access road is blocked. And then we were told that the toll road was closed for some reason so all the Instagrammers were stranded at the bottom! And as they were of course not prepared to actually hike to the mountain under their own propulsion, they remained there complaining to the police. It also explained the complete chaos at the lake and car park when we returned to the van. So we enjoyed the last views of the day before getting behind the wheel and heading back to Austria.

An absolutely incredible location to visit but in reality overrun and being slowly destroyed by modern society. If your a mountain person and still want to visit these natural phenomena then store all your patience up for these incredible locations. You will need it…

10/10/2025
Camper Navigation
Kenwood DNR 992RVS Camper Navigation Upgrade

We have had our camper for 3 years now and it came with a X-zent F270 Navi pre- installed by the manufacturer with full European maps. I knew nothing of this company or device before, and during the 50.000 km of use there was quite a lot of frustrating km’s. The user interface is mildly complicated, the map updates are incredibly complicated and totally impossible if you use a Mac operating system, the firmware update is just the same, the touch screen not so responsive and with no Apple Carplay, somewhat frustrating. And factor in my deteriorating eyesight on a small screen and it was time for an upgrade.

I looked at many options currently on the market all ranging from around €700 to €2000 and as my requirements were for a Garmin powered system, a 10” screen and good quality sound, I was left with only one real option. The flagship Kenwood 10.1” Camper Navi coming in at a trouser troubling €1400. And as I was upgrading the stereo, I also wanted to upgrade the speakers at the same time as the Fiat Ducato standard speakers were literally not worth having installed in the first place, as my iPhone speakers out powered them!

What I needed:
- Kenwood DNR 992RVS Navigation system
- Emphaser EM-FTF2 Plug n Play Speaker system for Fiat Ducato
- Universal 2 din head unit fixing cage
- Fiat ducato 2 din dashboard surround
- Ignition/override ISO dashboard switch
- Steering link cable ISO for Fiat Ducato
- Alubutyl 2mm self adhesive insulation panels
- Acoustic 10mm self adhesive soundproofing mat insulation
- Auto interior trim removal kit
Speakers

I decided on the highly recommended Emphaser EM-FTF2 speakers specifically manufactured for the Ducato van and with a simple plug and play installation. To install the door speakers, all of the trims first need to be removed which require a little care and patience, and as you are removing everything anyway, I recommend you add some sound insulation to the doors as Fiat provide nothing at the manufacture time. This will help enormously with the finished product and overall sound experience whilst driving.

The tweeters are slightly easier to install depending if you have integrated window blinds or not. Again just use care and attention as the blinds are very light and fragile. The plug and play was exactly as promised and both the speakers and tweeters fitted exactly into the available brackets and cable connections in the Fiat wiring loom.

Head Unit

Unpacking the Kenwood DNR 992RVS you get a feel of quality. Nice cabling, solid construction and a truly lovely display, so the initial feeling is of a good purchase. I am quite practical and have decent campervan and electrical knowledge, and after successfully installing our complicated Thitronik alarm system a couple of years ago, felt I had the skills to fit the stereo myself. So here goes!

Before installation I believed I had purchased all what I would require for a one afternoon fit, but I was to be disappointed with my lack of knowledge and expertise as the week dragged on.

First thing is the removal of the X-zent system and to make a note and label all the existing connection cables. I thought this would be quite straightforward but Etrusco had made a complete dogs dinner of the installation. Cutting cables too short, no protection to the external power switch, bypassing the harness connections to save money and time, and taking off all the labels from the rear of the unit connections. But after trying to get a grip on everything, I managed to work it out and remove the stereo. Then it was a journey the following day to purchase a correct override switch that would fit the Fiats ISO wiring loom and allow switching of the stereo either from the ignition or override it when parked.

Getting back to it the following day I managed to work out and install the 2 din housing cage and installed it to the correct depth around the main unit. Important note here. Do this before you connect any of the wiring as otherwise you will have to disconnect all of the wiring again to fit the cage as it mounts from the rear. This should save you a lot of wasted time that I cant get back…

The power switch is straightforward and fitted into the existing hole and wiring loom without issue. If you dont already have one then you will need to drill a hole somewhere in your dash which is convenient for you. The FM aerial, DAB aerial, GPS locator and microphone was also not a problem and as I had already installed a USB socket extension to the lower panel, this also just plugged in. The existing rear camera needed some modifications and requires a power and a ground feed which can be easily found at the rear of the unit and spliced in.

There are no other cameras on the van even though the stereo is capable of connecting 3 more, so the extra cables and connections are just taped up and left in place. There is also no electric handbrake and the mute technology is built into the harness cable so can be ignored. The Speed Pulse Input cable is a mystery to both an Audio electrician and also Fiat. Both saying they just ignore it when installing any stereo that has this cable as an option. So ignore it I did but it proved troublesome later…

The last thing to install was the aftermarket steering wheel control cable. This in theory was simple. Set the pins for Kenwood and connect one simple cable to the rear of the stereo and find the grey jack that is hidden somewhere behind the dash on the vehicle. All done, installed into the dash and the beautiful screen fitted. It really did look amazing!

Power on and it lit up like a Christmas Tree. All beeping and flashing and connecting to satellites and phones and control from the steering wheel as well as quite tremendous sound from the new speakers. I was very excited with my work. That was until our first trip out… Then the complications begun.

At first everything seemed to work perfectly and really quite impressively. Then, whilst listening to music via Carplay, the volume decided to lower itself to zero as if possessed. I turned it back up and it would lower itself and after 50 km or so of this I gave up and just left the music off. Then the sat nav began to play up and could not give me a location, continuously re-calculating the route as it thought I was of course and somewhere else nearby. And after another 30 or so km of this I got so frustrated I just turned it off and used the phone. Thoroughly annoyed with the vast amount of money outlaid for no apparently good reason.

Conclusion.

After 2 weeks of unsuccessful troubleshooting and back and forth frustration with Kenwood Europe and the Audio shop, I eventually traced the dropout functions to a faulty lead on the steering wheel link cable which I replaced myself instead of sending it back. The erratic GPS was caused by not having the speed pulse cable connected for its intended purpose. Where after extended research and no help from Fiat was finally located after some help from pioneer of all people! On a 2022 series 8 Fiat Ducato to it needs to be run to the black connector at the fuse box and inserted into empty pin 22. This solved the location issue.

And now after nearly a month of frustration the unit is functioning as advertised and I can only highly recommend it. The Navi functionality and interface is excellent and the Garmin maps and set-up a breeze to use. The Carplay system is really helpful especially on long travel. The steering controls are extremely practical and safe and the sound quality together with the speaker upgrade and door insulation is now unrecognisable. A completely different and pleasurable driving experience.

Is it worth the outlay?

For me personally, I think so. The biggest thing for me was always the Navi and the size of the screen, and the Kenwood/Garmin system just works with their vast experience in this field and the screen is quite incredible from Kenwood. Its responsive and easy to read which is what’s most important. The rest of the functions and Carplay is a bonus and something I am getting used to and now very glad it’s there.
03/10/2025
Secret Waterfall

Near to my home is a tourist hotspot – The Trögner Klamm. Its basically a small road that follows a gorge up a remote valley. It’s a very nice walk but thats pretty much all it is. You are always on an asphalt street and apart from a few spots where you can get down to the water theres not a lot happening. No great falls or even pools where you can swim. You walk up, stop at the drinks hut, then walk back to your car. A nice few hours out.

But if you ignore the draw of an overpriced ice or cold beer for just an extra hour or two then you can be rewarded with a beautiful and isolated waterfall that is hardly ever visited. And as there are no signed paths or drinks vendor at the finish line this makes it an even more seldom seen wonder.

Continuing up the valley and past the “beware of the bear” sign you follow a forest road for a few km’s past some animal feeding huts with nice views of the beautiful nature and wild flowers.

When the forest road crosses the river at a ford just keep on heading up the river. There is no path as such so just jump from rock to rock and try to avoid wet feet if theres been a lot of rain.

This goes on for around another km or so and just when you think that there is nothing there, it appears. Its not the highest, not the most spectacular or photogenic of falls, and its always in the shade so if you are there only for the instagram pose don’t waste your time. But if you find the remoteness and peace appealing then it’s most definitely for you. Also if it’s a hot day then strip off and get under it. Being alive has never felt so good!

Unfortunately there is no circular hike possible here so it’s one way in and one way out. But if you would like to save time or visit just the waterfall on a hot summers evening then you can also drive all the way up the gorge and park at the drinks hut and start from there.

Enjoy this little known and well hidden gem, just keep it a secret between us.

07/07/2025
Fkk Camping Ulika – Istria

Ulika camping is the last naturist site that we had not visited in mainland Croatia. There are still two on the islands that are on our list but they are quite a distance and logistically difficult for a short trip so they will have to wait a while longer.

Camping Ulika is run by Istra Camping and lies 8 km north of Porec on the Istrian coast. The camp is well laid out and well taken care of with nice and spacious marked pitches as well as a free for all area and some lovely mobile homes with small pools. There are four restaurants, a supermarket, some shops, a nice bakery and a hairdresser to take care of all your basic needs as well as enough old, but clean, sanitary blocks dotted around the site.

The camp gives off a very peaceful atmosphere but we were there on a somewhat cool Easter weekend only a couple of days after opening so there was hardly anyone there and not all the facilities were open. I am sure there is a much different feel to the place in high season when its completely full and people’s respect wanes somewhat!

We arrived early on Easter Friday and after an easy check-in found a wonderful pitch overlooking the ocean with the infeasibly large site map given to us by the receptionist. And with the weather much better than forecast we were able to enjoy the sun for most of the day and taking a short run before again enjoying the afternoon and evening views from our pitch.

On Saturday we woke early to blue skies and slightly less wind and after an early morning run exploring the lovely nearby peninsula north of the site and then an equally lovely breakfast, we took a long walk around the whole camp to get a good feel for the place.

The sports facilities looked ok but the 5€ free for a pathetic and not upgraded mini-golf and the same price for the use of the table tennis tables seemed very excessive. The pool was filled and looked great, but again a charge of 10€ for a sun lounger for the day was an unnecessary expense for a campsite to charge. But a positive was that the supermarket prices were not hiked too high and it was well stocked and as an added bonus you didn’t have to dress to go in there which is always an issue at naturist campsites.

Sunday we took the bikes out for a very nice ride along the coastline paths to the Mirna canal and back. Passing through little coastline villages and marinas, there are many options to stop for lunch or a beer along the way. The tracks were a little wet in places after the recent rains but mostly perfect for a good mountain bike and very scenic with ocean and countryside views.

Monday was spent around the van, walking around the camp, and just enjoying the warm spring weather. Something we have dearly missed over the winter months in Austria.

Camping Ulika was definitely somewhere that we enjoyed and would re-visit. The camp out of season was relaxed and the facilities, although basic, were clean and working well. We enjoyed the openness of the camp and not having to dress or cover up to go in the bars during the day or the supermarket and reception. There are many running and cycling trails available nearby and enough space to find some peace. We did not like the extra charges for basic things that should be included in the already high price, but every campsite we visit these days charge for absolutely everything they can get away with. And until people stop paying, it will just continue.

But in general a really nicely laid out site in a great location and plenty to do. And now that nearby FKK Koversada has moved away from naturism to textile camping and taken thousands of naturist pitches away, a place that will for sure only get more popular in the next years.

Happy naturist travels.

Ryan & Leela

22/04/2025
Spring upgrades

Inverter

First on the to-do list was to finally install a 200w inverter. We already never use or require an electrical hook-up and only ever take advantage of it when we visit a campsite where the electric is part of the pitch cost, but we do have a couple of things that still only have a 2 pin plug to charge.

This being the hand-held vacuum, Leela’s camera charger and most importantly the laptop if we take it with us on a longer journey. And this being an expensive and fragile piece of kit, we went for a quality Victron pure Sine Wave 12/250 Inverter.

This model is the lowest power output that is available at 200W but still more than adequate for our requirements and its relatively small, light and easy to install. But if you have induction stoves, kettles or hairdryers in your van then you will need a substantially bigger unit!

Bed headboards

And whilst in the back of the bed, we addressed a problem that has been bothering us the last year or so. That being when we sleep we inadvertently push the pillows into the rear windows and this risks damaging the somewhat fragile window blinds.

I looked around the DIY stores for ideas and did find some small head board panels that were ideal but I could not come up with a way to fix them without major surgery to the rear doors. But after a large amount of internet searching I found a random guy in Germany who had the same issue and had very cleverly designed some plastic fixing brackets for this exact purpose. He made them with a 3D printer so that the exact same headboards that I had found in the store could be fitted into the window blind frame without any surgery required at all. If only I were that clever…

Anyway, after exchanging some emails and transferring a worryingly large amount of cash for such a small item, a plastic bag arrived a few days later with all the necessary parts. And I have to admit that it worked perfectly and was worth every cent, so hats off to you whoever you are for such a clever idea.

Outdoor shower

Last on the list and the largest of the projects was to fit an outdoor shower point so that we could wash dirty kit and shower in warm weather without having to saturate the bathroom and drag dirty things in through the van.

This proved to be a lot more complicated and stressful than I had imagined mainly due to the strange layout of the van build. The first and obvious place for it would have been next to the toilet cassette but any access from inside was not possible. The next idea was under the bench seat where the boiler is located but this also gave no access for isolation values and it is already quite congested in there. So after a lot of thought I dismantled the food cupboard to take a look, and this exposed the hot and cold pipes that fed the bathroom sink as well as a space between the floor and cupboard bottom with an access panel where I could place the isolation valves which I hoped would be ok.

Drilling a large hole in the side of the van is quite daunting and as with all these things, preparation is key. So with all the plans made and tools laid out and with Leela jammed into the food cupboard inside the van so that I didn’t accidentally cut all the service pipes and wires, I fired up the drill… A few stressful hours later we had a lovely outdoor shower and washing point with full isolation valves for winter storage easily accessible from inside.

And as an extra note, the Lilie plastic valves you see in the photo turned out to be terrible and the handle popped on both valves under very minimal pressure. So I have replaced them with 10mm Brass Ball Valves which were actually cheaper than the “campervan” valves and 100% more robust and efficient.

Jobs done!

21/03/2025
Željava Air Base, Zadar and Pag island

Željava Air Base

Its felt like a very long 3 months since our return from Spain and I was in need of an adventure so I packed the van and headed south through Slovenia and Northern Croatia to the Bosnian border. The drive there was quite surreal and somewhat unnerving as this area was where most of the heavy fighting was done during the Yugoslavian war, and even though it was over 30 years ago, you still got the feeling of danger all around.

Vast open countryside with armoured bunkers along the roadside. Derelict buildings littered with bullet holes and still flying decaying Yugoslavian flags. Police cruising everywhere with roadside stops looking for immigrants and smugglers coming over the Bosnian border. This really was no-mans land and I was heading for the abandoned Željava Air Base, a relic from the cold war and code named Objekta 505.

This was a top-secret bunker concealed under mount Plešecica and at full capacity was large enough to hide up to 60 warplanes. There is a stripped out and vandalised C-47 transporter plane which you can climb aboard and two derelict runways which you can drive down which was quite a cool experience.

The bunker itself is a little creepy when you enter. The MIG fighter opening in the nuclear blast proof doors is very interesting but once inside its pitch black and even with a torch its still unnerving to walk through. This is still the external border with the EU and the area surrounding the airbase is part of the Balkan smuggling route for illegal immigrants, so you must be wary even with all the police presence. But a very interesting place to visit and recommended if you are in the area.

Zadar

I have never been to Zadar but heard many good things about the town and surroundings. I wanted to stay at the all year campsite for the main reason that in off-season you get to use the gym and spa in the neighbouring hotel. The campsite was relatively clean and tidy but it was nearly empty so that should not have been a problem. The hotel gym was basic but it opened at 7am and I used it every day and the spa was very much unloved but the sauna was welcome each evening after training.

The old town of Zadar was really very nice and you can spend a pleasant few hours wandering the streets and ocean front in the spring sunshine. The Organ steps being a lovely place to sit for a while with the sound of the waves gently playing out some soothing notes. I’m not sure what it would sound like if the sea was very rough though!

I had planned a week of cycle tours taking me far and wide but after the third day I was counting my luck that I was still in one piece and decided to put the bike away. The problem was that there were no cycle paths at all, no sidewalks on the seafront, and the limited off-road tours were bogged down after torrential rain the past weeks. But by far the worst issue was the abundance of road and construction works that was happening. New infrastructure installations and new apartments on every single free plot of land, it was quite amazing. But the nock-on effect was that cycling was quite dangerous as all the traffic was frustrated and impatient. So the time in Zadar was enjoyable but its geared toward the general and family tourist and not really outdoors people or cyclists.

Island Pag

Deciding to leave the campsite earlier than planned I headed to the Island of Pag. Also never having been here before I wanted to end my trip in good weather and hike the famous Island trail. I found this trail quite a few years ago when looking for off-road running races but I never got to run it and now my aging body unfortunately wont let me! So I thought that I would just hike it instead.

Arriving on the island at a beautiful sunset it was tough to keep your eyes on the road but after a far more difficult drive than planned I eventually arrived at my park-up as it was getting dark. Not knowing how amazing it was until I woke up just before dawn the next day.

I had parked on the headland near the small town of Metajna and there I stayed completely alone for the next three days. It was such an amazing location and in the off-season totally ignored by everyone. From my base I made two days of hiking all around the area covering every path and distant corner of this quite bizarre headland. The trails are just incredibly difficult to hike being sharp loose rocks and it really takes a lot of effort and a toll on the body but the plus side is that if you do see anyone you know that they really want to be there. And you are guaranteed that you will not run into your average unfit tourist on this trail.

I was so fortunate that in two days and over 40 km of naked hiking I experienced 20 degrees, no wind, and the most remarkable thing was that I did not encounter one single person in all this time. Just unbelievable. I also visited all of the remote beaches the highlight being Malin beach where I spent the majority of my time.

Here I just lay in the warm sun and listen to the complete and utter quiet and without exaggeration there were periods of time where there was not a single sound, not even a bird in the sky. Something I don’t think I have ever experienced before in such a place. The beach also has the advantage of having a natural fresh water Spring with pure drinkable water which is a real bonus being so far from anywhere and if my day there couldn’t have been any better, a dolphin decided just to cruise by as I was getting ready to leave. Thank you!

A really amazing location and if you love nature then a definite place to visit even though it is incredibly remote and very hard going but so worth the effort. I know that this beach is overrun in the summer with taxi boats dropping off the masses and causing havoc but in off- season you wont find anyone who doesn’t belong there. A real corner of natural paradise that is a worth while visit if you are on the island of Pag and a true naturists dream.

10/03/2025
Monte Lussari – Italy

With the mountain weather pretty stormy the last weeks in Austria we were desperate to get outdoors but struggling with choice. I didn’t particularly want to fight with the weather and I also did not want to repeat mountains just for the sake of it. So I looked a little further away for a change.

Having seen the classic pictures of Monte Lussari on Instagram I thought it was time to check it out. So after a little research on which path to take and how to get there as well as the weather forecast for the coming days we were ready to go.

The drive from where we live to Italy is pretty easy as it is straight freeway and on arriving I did not realise how large a ski resort this was so parking was easy at the foot of the slopes also.

The path was pretty much the only one from this location and also the most popular being used by all hikers and ski tourers so it was not quiet to say the least. But they had a lot of snow there and with the cold weather the path was actually quite pleasant and simple snow chains on your boots was more than sufficient for the whole hike.

It’s a pretty decent climb of 1000 hm over 6 km but you don’t really notice it as the gradient is almost constant except for a few places. The whole way up is unfortunately in the forest and you have no views but as you get near the summit the incredible scenery begins to show and the final meters are just outstanding.

The views from the summit in good weather which we had were out of this world. Really stunning in every direction and well worth the tough climb. When you do get to the top it’s quite a strange situation there. A small village with bars, restaurants, accommodation and the famous church landmark. Its quite surreal to find all this here together with all the fur lined coat and boot wearers who have made the trip up with the gondola for drinks and a meal. But nevertheless it was really a lovely hike and mountain.

Returning to the valley with the gondola we drove to Tarivisio and had just the most wonderful pizza. The Italians just do it better. Before returning home after a great day out in the mountains.

If you live or are in the area then maybe put this on your to-do list.

22/02/2025