Adventure Diary

Not all those who wonder are lost…

Author: adventurediary

A weekend in the Dolomites

Last weekend we decided on a last minute hiking trip to the Dolomites and a visit to two of its most famous landmarks. The weather forecast was reasonable for what we wanted to achieve and as it was possibly the last opportunity before the ice and snow set in for the winter, we packed the van and headed out on Friday late afternoon.

The drive from us to the Dolomites is a very scenic 3 hours through beautiful Austrian valleys before reaching the Italian border. It was getting dark quickly and with a few Sat-Nav issues, we finally made it to our parking way after dark. The ski-lift parking at Passo Tre Croci is vast and fortunately still free for campers. Although when there we witnessed some so called modern “vanlifers” trying their best to get us all banned by partying and lighting open camp fires in the parking lot. It’s a shame that these people are getting all the free parking places taken away from us.

Waking up in such an environment is a gift and after getting ourselves sorted we were out and on the trail in good time to miss the type of people mentioned above. I knew the trail to Lago di Sorapis would be quite difficult in damp and icy conditions as I had been there before. So I also knew that caution and patience would be required to navigate the tricky sections and to deal with the unprepared walkers on the mountain.

No matter what Trip Advisor says, this is a tough trail. Its a good distance at nearly 18k. There is a decent bit of climbing at around 650m. And the trail is exposed in sections, wet and slippery, has wires and ladders, as well as some scrambling in places. So an all round mountain hike that should not be taken lightly and treated with some respect.

After a couple of hours and some incredible mountain scenery we reached the lake. And even though the sky was grey and the water level very low, it was still a truly wonderful sight. The colour of the water even in these conditions still transfixes your gaze and the giant walls of rock gives you a real sense of scale and how small we really are in this environment. The idyllic moments to share only being spoilt by other humans who do not have an understanding of where they are and also by my biggest frustration of modern times, the Drones. Of which there is a complete ban in the Italian national parks and very large signs prohibiting them absolutely everywhere. But apparently they don’t teach reading these days on Tik-Tok but it does teach you that you can do whatever you want…

We nevertheless spent a lovely hour having our lunch and admiring the views before making our way back down the mountain and to the van for a welcome hot shower and a cold beer. After a couple of hours we made our way to our next destination of Lago Antorno at the foot of Tre Cime. Here there are only a few places to park your van overnight free of charge and we were incredibly lucky that a spot opened up just as we arrived. You can of course use the toll road and park at Rifugio Aurenzo but this will set you back a whopping €60 for 12 hours so if you want to overnight up there and also do the hike the next day, thats a cool €120 for a piece of dirt and no services…

Our parking was more than sufficient for us with an incredible view of Tre Cime from below and the reflections in the lake. The night at 2000m was clear and cold and we woke to a few cm’s of fresh snow in the morning, so we took it easy with a slow breakfast before hitting the trail a little after 9am.

Hiking from Lago Antorno gives you a lovely 5 or 6 km through the forest with Tre Cime always loitering above you and in your eye line. The trail was very nice in the fresh snow and an easy enough hike to get you to the main hut. But we were astonished to see that it seemed quite relaxed up there. Not paying much attention to this, we made our way around these magnificent peaks and enjoyed the views and the very fortunate situation of having fresh snow with easy hiking and a flash of blue sky at the right moments.

Heading back down we were still confused how we were virtually alone up there. An occurrence that is normal only in full winter conditions when the access road is blocked. And then we were told that the toll road was closed for some reason so all the Instagrammers were stranded at the bottom! And as they were of course not prepared to actually hike to the mountain under their own propulsion, they remained there complaining to the police. It also explained the complete chaos at the lake and car park when we returned to the van. So we enjoyed the last views of the day before getting behind the wheel and heading back to Austria.

An absolutely incredible location to visit but in reality overrun and being slowly destroyed by modern society. If your a mountain person and still want to visit these natural phenomena then store all your patience up for these incredible locations. You will need it…

10/10/2025
Camper Navigation
Kenwood DNR 992RVS Camper Navigation Upgrade

We have had our camper for 3 years now and it came with a X-zent F270 Navi pre- installed by the manufacturer with full European maps. I knew nothing of this company or device before, and during the 50.000 km of use there was quite a lot of frustrating km’s. The user interface is mildly complicated, the map updates are incredibly complicated and totally impossible if you use a Mac operating system, the firmware update is just the same, the touch screen not so responsive and with no Apple Carplay, somewhat frustrating. And factor in my deteriorating eyesight on a small screen and it was time for an upgrade.

I looked at many options currently on the market all ranging from around €700 to €2000 and as my requirements were for a Garmin powered system, a 10” screen and good quality sound, I was left with only one real option. The flagship Kenwood 10.1” Camper Navi coming in at a trouser troubling €1400. And as I was upgrading the stereo, I also wanted to upgrade the speakers at the same time as the Fiat Ducato standard speakers were literally not worth having installed in the first place, as my iPhone speakers out powered them!

What I needed:
- Kenwood DNR 992RVS Navigation system
- Emphaser EM-FTF2 Plug n Play Speaker system for Fiat Ducato
- Universal 2 din head unit fixing cage
- Fiat ducato 2 din dashboard surround
- Ignition/override ISO dashboard switch
- Steering link cable ISO for Fiat Ducato
- Alubutyl 2mm self adhesive insulation panels
- Acoustic 10mm self adhesive soundproofing mat insulation
- Auto interior trim removal kit
Speakers

I decided on the highly recommended Emphaser EM-FTF2 speakers specifically manufactured for the Ducato van and with a simple plug and play installation. To install the door speakers, all of the trims first need to be removed which require a little care and patience, and as you are removing everything anyway, I recommend you add some sound insulation to the doors as Fiat provide nothing at the manufacture time. This will help enormously with the finished product and overall sound experience whilst driving.

The tweeters are slightly easier to install depending if you have integrated window blinds or not. Again just use care and attention as the blinds are very light and fragile. The plug and play was exactly as promised and both the speakers and tweeters fitted exactly into the available brackets and cable connections in the Fiat wiring loom.

Head Unit

Unpacking the Kenwood DNR 992RVS you get a feel of quality. Nice cabling, solid construction and a truly lovely display, so the initial feeling is of a good purchase. I am quite practical and have decent campervan and electrical knowledge, and after successfully installing our complicated Thitronik alarm system a couple of years ago, felt I had the skills to fit the stereo myself. So here goes!

Before installation I believed I had purchased all what I would require for a one afternoon fit, but I was to be disappointed with my lack of knowledge and expertise as the week dragged on.

First thing is the removal of the X-zent system and to make a note and label all the existing connection cables. I thought this would be quite straightforward but Etrusco had made a complete dogs dinner of the installation. Cutting cables too short, no protection to the external power switch, bypassing the harness connections to save money and time, and taking off all the labels from the rear of the unit connections. But after trying to get a grip on everything, I managed to work it out and remove the stereo. Then it was a journey the following day to purchase a correct override switch that would fit the Fiats ISO wiring loom and allow switching of the stereo either from the ignition or override it when parked.

Getting back to it the following day I managed to work out and install the 2 din housing cage and installed it to the correct depth around the main unit. Important note here. Do this before you connect any of the wiring as otherwise you will have to disconnect all of the wiring again to fit the cage as it mounts from the rear. This should save you a lot of wasted time that I cant get back…

The power switch is straightforward and fitted into the existing hole and wiring loom without issue. If you dont already have one then you will need to drill a hole somewhere in your dash which is convenient for you. The FM aerial, DAB aerial, GPS locator and microphone was also not a problem and as I had already installed a USB socket extension to the lower panel, this also just plugged in. The existing rear camera needed some modifications and requires a power and a ground feed which can be easily found at the rear of the unit and spliced in.

There are no other cameras on the van even though the stereo is capable of connecting 3 more, so the extra cables and connections are just taped up and left in place. There is also no electric handbrake and the mute technology is built into the harness cable so can be ignored. The Speed Pulse Input cable is a mystery to both an Audio electrician and also Fiat. Both saying they just ignore it when installing any stereo that has this cable as an option. So ignore it I did but it proved troublesome later…

The last thing to install was the aftermarket steering wheel control cable. This in theory was simple. Set the pins for Kenwood and connect one simple cable to the rear of the stereo and find the grey jack that is hidden somewhere behind the dash on the vehicle. All done, installed into the dash and the beautiful screen fitted. It really did look amazing!

Power on and it lit up like a Christmas Tree. All beeping and flashing and connecting to satellites and phones and control from the steering wheel as well as quite tremendous sound from the new speakers. I was very excited with my work. That was until our first trip out… Then the complications begun.

At first everything seemed to work perfectly and really quite impressively. Then, whilst listening to music via Carplay, the volume decided to lower itself to zero as if possessed. I turned it back up and it would lower itself and after 50 km or so of this I gave up and just left the music off. Then the sat nav began to play up and could not give me a location, continuously re-calculating the route as it thought I was of course and somewhere else nearby. And after another 30 or so km of this I got so frustrated I just turned it off and used the phone. Thoroughly annoyed with the vast amount of money outlaid for no apparently good reason.

Conclusion.

After 2 weeks of unsuccessful troubleshooting and back and forth frustration with Kenwood Europe and the Audio shop, I eventually traced the dropout functions to a faulty lead on the steering wheel link cable which I replaced myself instead of sending it back. The erratic GPS was caused by not having the speed pulse cable connected for its intended purpose. Where after extended research and no help from Fiat was finally located after some help from pioneer of all people! On a 2022 series 8 Fiat Ducato to it needs to be run to the black connector at the fuse box and inserted into empty pin 22. This solved the location issue.

And now after nearly a month of frustration the unit is functioning as advertised and I can only highly recommend it. The Navi functionality and interface is excellent and the Garmin maps and set-up a breeze to use. The Carplay system is really helpful especially on long travel. The steering controls are extremely practical and safe and the sound quality together with the speaker upgrade and door insulation is now unrecognisable. A completely different and pleasurable driving experience.

Is it worth the outlay?

For me personally, I think so. The biggest thing for me was always the Navi and the size of the screen, and the Kenwood/Garmin system just works with their vast experience in this field and the screen is quite incredible from Kenwood. Its responsive and easy to read which is what’s most important. The rest of the functions and Carplay is a bonus and something I am getting used to and now very glad it’s there.
03/10/2025
Southern Austria

An outdoor adventure paradise but also an alternative naturist destination.

I have lived in Austria for over 10 years and in that time have come to know the attitude toward naturism and the naturist lifestyle here very well. Its a very strange country to try and make your home with some quite ridiculous bureaucratic obstacles and extreme language difficulties. But if you are planning a naturist vacation, its a truly viable and beautiful alternative.

Getting to Carinthia (Kärnten) is the first hurdle as the only worthwhile airport is Vienna and thats a four hour drive away. Klagenfurt is the regional airport with only one UK option of Ryanair from Stansted. So logistically flying from the Uk could be complicated. There is of course the possibility of driving but unless you have enough time to play with and plan a road trip then the 1500+ km is a long way for a weeks holiday and back! But if you can find your way down here then the rewards can be quite breathtaking.

Carinthia is the southernmost region of Austria and has the most Mediterranean feel of anywhere in the country and with enough lakes and mountains to keep even the most enthusiastic of outdoors people entertained for the duration of your stay. The possibilities for outdoor activities are quite literally endless, with everything from hiking, climbing, via ferrata, mountain biking, road cycling, alpine passes and water sports. The list just goes on. And put on top of that a very naturist friendly climate from May through September, then it becomes a very attractive destination.

There are two naturist campsites in the region at Millstättersee and also near Wörthersee but I would like to concentrate on the Naturist Campsite where I spend my time, where I work occasionally, and where I visit and use as you would your local naturist club back in the uk for day visits.

Rutar Lido Feriendorf

The campsite is located in the Gemeinde Eberndorf around 30km from Klagenfurt with pretty decent public transport connections if needed, but your own vehicle is highly recommended to be able to fully explore the incredible surroundings to the maximum. It is officially classed as a FKK Holiday Village and therefore has people living there all year round as well as incorporating a full naturist campsite and hotel into the vast grounds.

It is situated in 15 ha of natural paradise with 40 self contained accommodation units as well as single room and apartment options in the hotel. The camping ground has over 300 pitches including electric and fresh water, various sanitary and shower blocks, and also a specific dog friendly area so your furry friend does not have to stay at home.

There is a fresh water lake for swimming, a smaller lake for your K9 companion to enjoy, two indoor swimming pools, two outdoor swimming pools, children’s pool, 2 finnish saunas, bio sauna, infra-red sauna and massage available (from me!). Also there is fitness equipment, a supermarket, bar and pool side restaurant, lovely campsite and naturist forest walks, archery, boules and enough space to find your own little corner in complete peace and nature.

As well as everything at the campsite, the surrounding area has an enormous amount on offer whether by foot, bicycle or car. The surrounding lakes of Gösselsdorfersee and Sonneggersee are located in areas of natural beauty and the nearby Klopeinersee lake is one of the warmest and most beautiful holiday locations in the whole of Austria, and just perfect for a day out SUP, swimming or just a lovely walk around the 5km picturesque lake. It also hosts a number of large events through the summer season from local farmers markets, triathlons, fun runs and quite extravagant fire work displays. And if you play golf then the course at Lake Turnersee is also very nearby and of high quality.

From Rutar Lido by bike you can explore the famous Drau River bike path, the historic hills of Hemmaberg and the Eisenkappel Valley with its crystal clear rivers and waterfalls. And for mountain bikers the Petzen bike park with down-hill tracks and the longest flow country trail in Europe at over 12 km is only a short drive away.

For walkers and hikers there is not only local walks and forest trails available but also the Petzen where you have the option of hiking to the 2100m peak on the Slovenian border, many other surrounding peaks above 2000m, as well as the breathtaking challenge of hiking the wonderful Hochobir mountain with commanding views over the whole of the Karawanken range.

Being so close to Slovenia there is also the opportunity of taking a worth while day trip to see its capitol Ljublanja (also an airport option) or the extremely picturesque lake Bled. As well as the Carinthian capitol Klagenfurt, lake wörthersee or the international street festival of Villach.

So there is much to see and do in this little southern corner of Austria. And if the weather doesn’t work out for a day, then there is the local naturist Bathhouse at Klopeinersee or for the true alpine Terme experience, the Römerbad at Badkleinkirchheim is a wonderful day out that is highly recommended even if the weather is good.

If anyone would like any further information about Rutar Lido camping and the surrounding area then please get in touch.

Best naturist wishes.

Ryan

26/07/2025
Secret Waterfall

Near to my home is a tourist hotspot – The Trögner Klamm. Its basically a small road that follows a gorge up a remote valley. It’s a very nice walk but thats pretty much all it is. You are always on an asphalt street and apart from a few spots where you can get down to the water theres not a lot happening. No great falls or even pools where you can swim. You walk up, stop at the drinks hut, then walk back to your car. A nice few hours out.

But if you ignore the draw of an overpriced ice or cold beer for just an extra hour or two then you can be rewarded with a beautiful and isolated waterfall that is hardly ever visited. And as there are no signed paths or drinks vendor at the finish line this makes it an even more seldom seen wonder.

Continuing up the valley and past the “beware of the bear” sign you follow a forest road for a few km’s past some animal feeding huts with nice views of the beautiful nature and wild flowers.

When the forest road crosses the river at a ford just keep on heading up the river. There is no path as such so just jump from rock to rock and try to avoid wet feet if theres been a lot of rain.

This goes on for around another km or so and just when you think that there is nothing there, it appears. Its not the highest, not the most spectacular or photogenic of falls, and its always in the shade so if you are there only for the instagram pose don’t waste your time. But if you find the remoteness and peace appealing then it’s most definitely for you. Also if it’s a hot day then strip off and get under it. Being alive has never felt so good!

Unfortunately there is no circular hike possible here so it’s one way in and one way out. But if you would like to save time or visit just the waterfall on a hot summers evening then you can also drive all the way up the gorge and park at the drinks hut and start from there.

Enjoy this little known and well hidden gem, just keep it a secret between us.

07/07/2025
Fkk Camping Ulika – Istria

Ulika camping is the last naturist site that we had not visited in mainland Croatia. There are still two on the islands that are on our list but they are quite a distance and logistically difficult for a short trip so they will have to wait a while longer.

Camping Ulika is run by Istra Camping and lies 8 km north of Porec on the Istrian coast. The camp is well laid out and well taken care of with nice and spacious marked pitches as well as a free for all area and some lovely mobile homes with small pools. There are four restaurants, a supermarket, some shops, a nice bakery and a hairdresser to take care of all your basic needs as well as enough old, but clean, sanitary blocks dotted around the site.

The camp gives off a very peaceful atmosphere but we were there on a somewhat cool Easter weekend only a couple of days after opening so there was hardly anyone there and not all the facilities were open. I am sure there is a much different feel to the place in high season when its completely full and people’s respect wanes somewhat!

We arrived early on Easter Friday and after an easy check-in found a wonderful pitch overlooking the ocean with the infeasibly large site map given to us by the receptionist. And with the weather much better than forecast we were able to enjoy the sun for most of the day and taking a short run before again enjoying the afternoon and evening views from our pitch.

On Saturday we woke early to blue skies and slightly less wind and after an early morning run exploring the lovely nearby peninsula north of the site and then an equally lovely breakfast, we took a long walk around the whole camp to get a good feel for the place.

The sports facilities looked ok but the 5€ free for a pathetic and not upgraded mini-golf and the same price for the use of the table tennis tables seemed very excessive. The pool was filled and looked great, but again a charge of 10€ for a sun lounger for the day was an unnecessary expense for a campsite to charge. But a positive was that the supermarket prices were not hiked too high and it was well stocked and as an added bonus you didn’t have to dress to go in there which is always an issue at naturist campsites.

Sunday we took the bikes out for a very nice ride along the coastline paths to the Mirna canal and back. Passing through little coastline villages and marinas, there are many options to stop for lunch or a beer along the way. The tracks were a little wet in places after the recent rains but mostly perfect for a good mountain bike and very scenic with ocean and countryside views.

Monday was spent around the van, walking around the camp, and just enjoying the warm spring weather. Something we have dearly missed over the winter months in Austria.

Camping Ulika was definitely somewhere that we enjoyed and would re-visit. The camp out of season was relaxed and the facilities, although basic, were clean and working well. We enjoyed the openness of the camp and not having to dress or cover up to go in the bars during the day or the supermarket and reception. There are many running and cycling trails available nearby and enough space to find some peace. We did not like the extra charges for basic things that should be included in the already high price, but every campsite we visit these days charge for absolutely everything they can get away with. And until people stop paying, it will just continue.

But in general a really nicely laid out site in a great location and plenty to do. And now that nearby FKK Koversada has moved away from naturism to textile camping and taken thousands of naturist pitches away, a place that will for sure only get more popular in the next years.

Happy naturist travels.

Ryan & Leela

22/04/2025
Spring upgrades

Inverter

First on the to-do list was to finally install a 200w inverter. We already never use or require an electrical hook-up and only ever take advantage of it when we visit a campsite where the electric is part of the pitch cost, but we do have a couple of things that still only have a 2 pin plug to charge.

This being the hand-held vacuum, Leela’s camera charger and most importantly the laptop if we take it with us on a longer journey. And this being an expensive and fragile piece of kit, we went for a quality Victron pure Sine Wave 12/250 Inverter.

This model is the lowest power output that is available at 200W but still more than adequate for our requirements and its relatively small, light and easy to install. But if you have induction stoves, kettles or hairdryers in your van then you will need a substantially bigger unit!

Bed headboards

And whilst in the back of the bed, we addressed a problem that has been bothering us the last year or so. That being when we sleep we inadvertently push the pillows into the rear windows and this risks damaging the somewhat fragile window blinds.

I looked around the DIY stores for ideas and did find some small head board panels that were ideal but I could not come up with a way to fix them without major surgery to the rear doors. But after a large amount of internet searching I found a random guy in Germany who had the same issue and had very cleverly designed some plastic fixing brackets for this exact purpose. He made them with a 3D printer so that the exact same headboards that I had found in the store could be fitted into the window blind frame without any surgery required at all. If only I were that clever…

Anyway, after exchanging some emails and transferring a worryingly large amount of cash for such a small item, a plastic bag arrived a few days later with all the necessary parts. And I have to admit that it worked perfectly and was worth every cent, so hats off to you whoever you are for such a clever idea.

Outdoor shower

Last on the list and the largest of the projects was to fit an outdoor shower point so that we could wash dirty kit and shower in warm weather without having to saturate the bathroom and drag dirty things in through the van.

This proved to be a lot more complicated and stressful than I had imagined mainly due to the strange layout of the van build. The first and obvious place for it would have been next to the toilet cassette but any access from inside was not possible. The next idea was under the bench seat where the boiler is located but this also gave no access for isolation values and it is already quite congested in there. So after a lot of thought I dismantled the food cupboard to take a look, and this exposed the hot and cold pipes that fed the bathroom sink as well as a space between the floor and cupboard bottom with an access panel where I could place the isolation valves which I hoped would be ok.

Drilling a large hole in the side of the van is quite daunting and as with all these things, preparation is key. So with all the plans made and tools laid out and with Leela jammed into the food cupboard inside the van so that I didn’t accidentally cut all the service pipes and wires, I fired up the drill… A few stressful hours later we had a lovely outdoor shower and washing point with full isolation valves for winter storage easily accessible from inside.

And as an extra note, the Lilie plastic valves you see in the photo turned out to be terrible and the handle popped on both valves under very minimal pressure. So I have replaced them with 10mm Brass Ball Valves which were actually cheaper than the “campervan” valves and 100% more robust and efficient.

Jobs done!

21/03/2025
Željava Air Base, Zadar and Pag island

Željava Air Base

Its felt like a very long 3 months since our return from Spain and I was in need of an adventure so I packed the van and headed south through Slovenia and Northern Croatia to the Bosnian border. The drive there was quite surreal and somewhat unnerving as this area was where most of the heavy fighting was done during the Yugoslavian war, and even though it was over 30 years ago, you still got the feeling of danger all around.

Vast open countryside with armoured bunkers along the roadside. Derelict buildings littered with bullet holes and still flying decaying Yugoslavian flags. Police cruising everywhere with roadside stops looking for immigrants and smugglers coming over the Bosnian border. This really was no-mans land and I was heading for the abandoned Željava Air Base, a relic from the cold war and code named Objekta 505.

This was a top-secret bunker concealed under mount Plešecica and at full capacity was large enough to hide up to 60 warplanes. There is a stripped out and vandalised C-47 transporter plane which you can climb aboard and two derelict runways which you can drive down which was quite a cool experience.

The bunker itself is a little creepy when you enter. The MIG fighter opening in the nuclear blast proof doors is very interesting but once inside its pitch black and even with a torch its still unnerving to walk through. This is still the external border with the EU and the area surrounding the airbase is part of the Balkan smuggling route for illegal immigrants, so you must be wary even with all the police presence. But a very interesting place to visit and recommended if you are in the area.

Zadar

I have never been to Zadar but heard many good things about the town and surroundings. I wanted to stay at the all year campsite for the main reason that in off-season you get to use the gym and spa in the neighbouring hotel. The campsite was relatively clean and tidy but it was nearly empty so that should not have been a problem. The hotel gym was basic but it opened at 7am and I used it every day and the spa was very much unloved but the sauna was welcome each evening after training.

The old town of Zadar was really very nice and you can spend a pleasant few hours wandering the streets and ocean front in the spring sunshine. The Organ steps being a lovely place to sit for a while with the sound of the waves gently playing out some soothing notes. I’m not sure what it would sound like if the sea was very rough though!

I had planned a week of cycle tours taking me far and wide but after the third day I was counting my luck that I was still in one piece and decided to put the bike away. The problem was that there were no cycle paths at all, no sidewalks on the seafront, and the limited off-road tours were bogged down after torrential rain the past weeks. But by far the worst issue was the abundance of road and construction works that was happening. New infrastructure installations and new apartments on every single free plot of land, it was quite amazing. But the nock-on effect was that cycling was quite dangerous as all the traffic was frustrated and impatient. So the time in Zadar was enjoyable but its geared toward the general and family tourist and not really outdoors people or cyclists.

Island Pag

Deciding to leave the campsite earlier than planned I headed to the Island of Pag. Also never having been here before I wanted to end my trip in good weather and hike the famous Island trail. I found this trail quite a few years ago when looking for off-road running races but I never got to run it and now my aging body unfortunately wont let me! So I thought that I would just hike it instead.

Arriving on the island at a beautiful sunset it was tough to keep your eyes on the road but after a far more difficult drive than planned I eventually arrived at my park-up as it was getting dark. Not knowing how amazing it was until I woke up just before dawn the next day.

I had parked on the headland near the small town of Metajna and there I stayed completely alone for the next three days. It was such an amazing location and in the off-season totally ignored by everyone. From my base I made two days of hiking all around the area covering every path and distant corner of this quite bizarre headland. The trails are just incredibly difficult to hike being sharp loose rocks and it really takes a lot of effort and a toll on the body but the plus side is that if you do see anyone you know that they really want to be there. And you are guaranteed that you will not run into your average unfit tourist on this trail.

I was so fortunate that in two days and over 40 km of naked hiking I experienced 20 degrees, no wind, and the most remarkable thing was that I did not encounter one single person in all this time. Just unbelievable. I also visited all of the remote beaches the highlight being Malin beach where I spent the majority of my time.

Here I just lay in the warm sun and listen to the complete and utter quiet and without exaggeration there were periods of time where there was not a single sound, not even a bird in the sky. Something I don’t think I have ever experienced before in such a place. The beach also has the advantage of having a natural fresh water Spring with pure drinkable water which is a real bonus being so far from anywhere and if my day there couldn’t have been any better, a dolphin decided just to cruise by as I was getting ready to leave. Thank you!

A really amazing location and if you love nature then a definite place to visit even though it is incredibly remote and very hard going but so worth the effort. I know that this beach is overrun in the summer with taxi boats dropping off the masses and causing havoc but in off- season you wont find anyone who doesn’t belong there. A real corner of natural paradise that is a worth while visit if you are on the island of Pag and a true naturists dream.

10/03/2025
Monte Lussari – Italy

With the mountain weather pretty stormy the last weeks in Austria we were desperate to get outdoors but struggling with choice. I didn’t particularly want to fight with the weather and I also did not want to repeat mountains just for the sake of it. So I looked a little further away for a change.

Having seen the classic pictures of Monte Lussari on Instagram I thought it was time to check it out. So after a little research on which path to take and how to get there as well as the weather forecast for the coming days we were ready to go.

The drive from where we live to Italy is pretty easy as it is straight freeway and on arriving I did not realise how large a ski resort this was so parking was easy at the foot of the slopes also.

The path was pretty much the only one from this location and also the most popular being used by all hikers and ski tourers so it was not quiet to say the least. But they had a lot of snow there and with the cold weather the path was actually quite pleasant and simple snow chains on your boots was more than sufficient for the whole hike.

It’s a pretty decent climb of 1000 hm over 6 km but you don’t really notice it as the gradient is almost constant except for a few places. The whole way up is unfortunately in the forest and you have no views but as you get near the summit the incredible scenery begins to show and the final meters are just outstanding.

The views from the summit in good weather which we had were out of this world. Really stunning in every direction and well worth the tough climb. When you do get to the top it’s quite a strange situation there. A small village with bars, restaurants, accommodation and the famous church landmark. Its quite surreal to find all this here together with all the fur lined coat and boot wearers who have made the trip up with the gondola for drinks and a meal. But nevertheless it was really a lovely hike and mountain.

Returning to the valley with the gondola we drove to Tarivisio and had just the most wonderful pizza. The Italians just do it better. Before returning home after a great day out in the mountains.

If you live or are in the area then maybe put this on your to-do list.

22/02/2025
Winter hiking

We are now deep into the winter and the conditions become more stable as it gets colder with less avalanche risk, so I thought I would share some winter tours of my favourite local (ish) mountains.

The mountains in winter can be a scary proposition for some but if you have good summer hillwalking experience, good fitness levels, the right equipment and most importantly, a good grasp and understanding of navigation (and I don’t mean just having the latest iPhone in your pocket) then you can safely enjoy the winter conditions and experience the mountains in a new season.

This is not a lesson in winter kit and mountaineering techniques as I assume that anyone who ventures into the mountains in winter without a guide is not stupid enough to go there without such experience and skill. But maybe some inspiration to try a new mountain or plan a new route or even just for you to see these beautiful places in a new light.

Bodental – 8,5km 590 hm

Bodental is a nice dead end valley located just off the Loiblpaß road from Ferlach. There is a small Ski Slope there and a really beautiful Loipe together with some guesthouses and holiday homes. Its more famous for the Meerauge, a small pond with lovely turquoise water, but apart from a nice photo theres not much more you can do as swimming in it, as most things in Austria, is firmly “Verboten”.

The hike that I prefer is an easy tour that takes you first up through the quiet northern forests of the valley on the Südalpenweg which after a little climbing brings you out on to the Ogrisalm. From here you have wonderful views of the sheer cliffs of Kosiak and Wertatscha to the south, before dropping back to the valley floor and following the Loipe back to the Meerauge and the car.

This is a relatively easy winter tour and unless there are severe weather conditions offers little exposure or technical difficulties. So a lovely morning or late afternoon option.

Saualpe – 19,5km 990 hm

The Saualpe is a group of rolling hills and quite a favourite of mine as it closely resembles the mountains where I grew up in Wales and where my mountaineering life was formed. They could almost be identical with the grassland, rocky outcrops and constant winds with free flowing mountain streams and dampness underfoot. But in winter they are a bit of a different proposition. The hiking is generally easy going but the weather can change very quickly with strong winds and low clouds. So with its vast featureless terrain and openness, navigation can be important.

In winter you can gain height with the car on the Lading Straße and park near the Alpengasthof Gießlhütte. From here you take the hiking path to the Wolfsberger Hütte (closed in winter) and then onto the ridge line at the summit of Speilkkogel. Then heading north on the Eisenwurzenweg 08 you pass the Zingerlekreuz and reach the summit of Gertrusk. Doubling back on yourself you get to the summit of Ladinger Spitz and then on to Sandkogel.

After enjoying the beautiful views and remoteness of these mountains in quite perfect winter conditions I headed back south/south east past the Offnerhütte and picking up the path back to the car park. A lovely remote hike on a mountain that has very good snow and ice conditions in the winter months, although the weather can be temperamental, so be prepared.

Koralpe – 12,7 km 610 hm

My preferred tour on this mountain first heads north from the car park at the ski lifts on the start of the 591 Wanderweg, passing the Poms Wasserfall before heading south through the forest bringing you to the open bowl under the main summit. This area is normally quite sheltered but as you start to climb this traverse can be very treacherous and not to be taken lightly.

The wind can be incredibly strong and combine this with low cloud and either soft snow or sheet ice (depending on the weather and wind direction the previous days) the traverse to the Großer Speikkogel can be very difficult and uncomfortably exposed. So experience of various winter conditions are really important to get you to the summit safely.

After a big effort you reach the summit where visibility can come and go in seconds but as the descent is on a graded ski piste there is no immediate danger except for the exposure to very strong and gusty wind conditions which is almost guaranteed on this summit in winter!

Petzen – 12,9 km 1715 hm

Climbing the mountain from the Talstation car park is a nice challenge in winter as there is snow and ice from the off, so firstly following the piste past the Mosthütte and at the bottom of the black run take the wanderweg on the south side.

When you reach the top of the steep piste continue across it with care to the path on the other side and then on to the blue piste to the top of the lifts then onto the wanderweg to the Kniepssattel. From here you would not believe that you are on the same mountain as the piste ends and the mountain starts to take the feel of a remote range. It’s a nice easy hike then to the summit at Kordeschkopf where you have beautiful views across Slovenia to the South.

Unfortunately you must return by the same way but I usually take the gondola back to the valley as the walk down the piste is so boring and hard on the knees.

Dobratsch – 18,5 km 1420 hm

I have been on Dobratsch quite a few times but mostly in summer and always from the Alpenstraße. A very easy walk and something nice to do for an evening stroll. But in winter I like to actually climb mountains so it was time for a new route up.

After some research I found the perfect track but I also found some links to a Hot Spring phenomenon that seems to appear only a few times a year and was near to where I was heading.

This Quelle appears just behind the town Villach and on the stream Maibachl. People have built up some stones to make a pool and from the photos of the previous years it seemed like a nice place to visit and try. But me being me I didn’t want to go there when it was overrun so I decided to go there first before I climbed, which turned out to be quite exhilarating.

I arrived at the location I found online around 5:00am. Pitch black and with no actual fixed knowledge of where this thing was or even if there was any water in it. So I stumbled around the forest with my torch for 15 minutes until I finally stepped in some water and then was immediately surrounded by clouds of steam. Still with only the tiny beam from my torch I could make out a pool of water and with the steam I guessed I was in the right place.

Entering an unknown pool without being able to see the edges or even knowing how deep it was or what was in there took a little bit of self discipline… But wtf eh… So I stripped off and took the plunge and I am so glad that I did.

It was -10 degrees air temperature and +25 degrees water temperature and it was one of the most exhilarating and energetic experiences I have had for many a year. Complete darkness, complete stillness in the forest, no distractions (apart from me trying my best to take photos!) and just lying in the water totally still and with only my breathing was quite beautiful and stayed with me for quite a while. The water is meant to have mystic energy and I am not sure if that is true or not but it didn’t half give me some power and appetite to climb the mountain later that morning.

After my amazing early morning experience I drove to Bad Bleiberg for some breakfast and then returned to Heiligengeist which was the start of my tour.

From here I had planned to follow the ski tour path but when I got there I didn’t realise that this was actually a prepared piste for them and not a real wilderness touring route and I could not believe the amount of people that were there at 8am on a Wednesday morning! So I quickly left that path and made my own way through the forest in beautiful deep, soft, unbroken snow in the general direction of the tour that I had planned.

Eventually I headed back into the trees and a very, very steep climb onto the summit plateaux. From here is a very easy couple of km’s until you reach the mountain hut.

Another few hundred meters further and I had to take off the snowshoes and put on my crampons as the ridge to the actual summit is incredibly treacherous at around 30cm wide and with hundreds and hundreds of meters drop on each side. Calm nerves are required but once over you are rewarded to be in a place that only one or two people will go even if there are hundreds of them back at the hut.

After my packed lunch and coffee and sitting enjoying the incredible views all around me for quite a while, it was time to return to the car in the same sort of general direction that I had climbed it earlier. A really tremendous day out.

Hochobir – 12,3 km 1090 hm

The Hochobir is probably my favourite mountain of the region in Winter. With no roads open to drive up and no ski lifts the people you meet up there in complete winter conditions are people who really want to be there and have made a decent effort to get to the summit.

The path from Schaidasattel is a tough one with always an icy start through the forest and then the probability of very deep snow on the plateaux before attempting the summit climb which could be anything from deep snow to sheet ice depending on the weather. Either way its a tricky ascent and when I was there recently I pretty much had 4 seasons in a couple of hours.

The wind always blows hard and the weather sweeps in waves so you can go from beautiful blue sunny skies to zero visibility in the matter of seconds but this only ads to the feeling of exposure and achievement.

I have climbed this mountain many times in all seasons and also camped on the summit often (diary entry). Its a beautiful mountain with 360 degree views and it really should be on your list of climbs if you love the mountains.

Summary

I hope that amongst all this is some inspiration for you to get out into the hills in winter, improve your skills, learn some navigation or even decide to take a winter mountaineering course. If you want some more detailed information about the actual tours then please feel free to get in touch with me.

Enjoy the mountains in winter but ultimately be safe and turn back if in doubt. The mountains will always be there tomorrow.

Sankt Oswald – DNF

I thought that I would just add this as an extra to prove that not everything goes to plan and not every time is always a great day out…

Yesterday I had plans to drive to Sankt Oswald above Bad Kleinkirchheim and climb the horseshoe. This is a really amazing hike and I wanted to get the full winter experience. The route goes first to Falkert – Steinnock – Klomnock – Mallnock before returning to the car via Brunnachhöhe. A full day and a big effort was required and I was very prepared as always.

I arrived there nice and early, checked the forecast which was for stable conditions but high winds, so lots of ice at the summit ridge and extra precautions with crampons and axes. No worries. But I didn’t feel right. I got cramp in my arm leaving the car which is a big sign to me as I know my body very well and thats not good.

I headed up the valley and everything seemed uncomfortable. I was not stable, my pack and clothes were annoying the crap out of me and mentally I was switching plans and routes as I was walking. Also not great.

So I took an alternate route which was half the distance which helped a little with my mindset and then after about 6 km and getting out of the protection of the forest the wind started to hit me hard. So I had some fuel and then tried to make my way up the main ascent to the ridge line.

After maybe another km I was not only frustrated with fighting the wind and difficult snow conditions but also fighting with myself. Which for me is a much bigger effort than fighting the weather or the physical effort required. So I made the decision to call it quits and return the same way.

It didn’t go as planned. I didn’t get my big day out. I didn’t get the energy from the mountains and outdoors. In fact I was left empty and low when I returned. But this is how it goes and this is life. You can try all you want and be as prepared as you can, but it just doesn’t always work out as you want.

Nevertheless, I still managed to get out and have a nice view for my lunch and I look forward to the next attempt.

17/02/2025
Costa del Sol

Getting back on track after our amazing weeks detour and return to Cabo de Gata, we headed south for the lovely out of season town of Nerja and found a beach side parking for a few days. From here we explored Nerja which at the end of November had a British retirement home feel to it. Much like a more relaxed and cleaner version of Benidorm. We also visited the mountain village of Figiliana and spent some nice time hiking the waterways high above this quaint village.

After enjoying some more time at our lovely parking watching the most incredible sunrises, we made our way a little further down the coast to Torre del Mar and naturist camping Almanat. We were not sure if we would stay but after walking around we thought we would give it a try even though we were very sceptical. As it turned out we should have gone with our gut feeling and just left and cancelled the booking.

The campsite was pretty awful to say the least. Still absolutely filthy after the high water where everything you touched or put down was covered with dirt and mud. Not their fault obviously but the entrance and all access roads around the camp were like a swamp. It left us feeling depressed and sorry for the state of this part of Spain..

The beach was like a bomb site with no real attempt to clean it up and even if you could find a spot amongst the debris you then had to put up with the inevitable flurry of activity around us when an attractive woman appeared. So we packed up and left there as soon as we could.

Driving further down the Costa del Sol we were heading for our final destination of the trip and the furthest south we would go. We wanted to visit Malaga and parked just outside Torremolinos and directly under the flight path! The car park did turn out to be a decent base though as it was close enough to walk to the train station and also near a Nike outlet where I finally had some new running shorts as Leela had sewn up my old ones too many times now on this trip!

Malaga was a nice city with plenty of room to move and a relaxed atmosphere. We walked to the castle, the marina and all through the old town. Unfortunately the one art exhibition that we wanted to see was closed on a Monday so we just walked the city and did enjoy the market and Christmas lights, even though they were not on in the middle of the day.

The city gave us a feeling that it is mainly geared toward the huge cruise ships that dock right in the centre. Even the market, where we hoped to have eaten, had a very structured menu. Not the vibrant chaotic locals market that we were led to believe and hoping to experience. The options for a cheap beer and nice Tapas replaced with expensive cava and a €15 bowl of paella that looked like it had been sitting there for three days! So we continued walking late into the afternoon before taking the train back toward the Costa’s and the parking lot.

We were hoping to have stayed at least another day there to take a look at the naturist beach nearby, but as the beach clean-up was progressing very slowly we decided to move on to have a last day together at a beach further south.

We found a nice little park-up very close to Cabopino naturist beach where we had hoped to enjoy. The usual unfathomable behaviour and cruising in the dunes on a Wednesday afternoon bringing stress to straight couples and single women is a constant irritation to us. But the sun shone and we tried to focus on ourselves.

Unfortunately we had to leave shortly after when a man walked around us 3 times within a couple of feet and then began playing with himself. I tried to be polite and then more threatening but I should have just called the Police. The outcome was the same as with all of them. Run away. They do not understand the extreme stress that they bring to people and they are so lucky that they don’t get themselves into more trouble than just a verbal exchange. We were jointly hugely frustrated with the day, the local people, and the area.

It was so sad as it was to be our final day together of the trip and it was spoiled by the state of something that we love so dearly – Naturism. Well of course not exactly the lifestyle of Naturism but the men (and it is only men) who are now using it as a foil to their terrible behaviour in ALL naturist locations that we have visited. Without exception.

We hoped for a fantastic last day together, but we were both left deflated with people so we had a few beers and watched an amazing sunset and night sky which cheered us up no end..

The next day was our planned official end to the trip as Leela was flying back to Austria first as she had to prepare to go back to work and there was lots to take care of, and I would slowly make my way back over the next days to return by Christmas.

There are always highs and lows with extended travel and this last week or so was definitely the low point of the trip. It was such a shame that this particular journey had ended a little flat, but what we had done, achieved, seen and experienced was just incredible.

Happy travels.

13/12/2024